Installing rear lower control arms

[87gninpa]

Have a set of lower arms to install and wondering if there are any tips you guys can give before I get into it. Seems pretty simple with just 4 bolts, but do these have a tendency to get stuck in there or anything? Also, whats the best way to get at the front lower control arm bolts, go through the frame from the outside of the car? Any help appreciated TIA

 

[coach]

YEP. It is not bad at all. Do one side at a time. Whos arms are you using? Stock sway bar? This makes a difference when doing the install. If you are not changing sway bars, then you are fine.

Thanks
Coach

 

[49-blues]

I used a deep socket duct taped to a extension for the front bolts, alot of penetrating oil, and only finish torquing the bolts when all wheels are on a flat surface-i used wheel ramps under my rear wheels before torquing.

 

[veedubcrazy]

May I suggest...

http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/br...ls/285544-new-lower-control-arms-install.html :smile:

 

[87gninpa]

Thanks guys, they are the UMI boxed lowers, and I will be using the stock swaybar for the time being. Does anyone know the torque spec on the lower arm bolts?

 

[Yankee John]

Torque spec (according to UMI) is 72 ft/lbs.

IF you have polyurethane bushings- an FYI: I used UMI tubular uppers and lowers on my GN. The bushings are sourced from Energy Suspension by UMI. The factory bolts are 12mm, while the poly bushings are slightly larger at 1/2". If you use the factory bolts, there will be a good bit more play and subsequent rattles.

I drilled all of my rear end mounting holes to 1/2" and bought new grade 8, 1/2" x 4 inch bolts, lock washers, and nuts from my local Tractor Supply store (for about $12). Drilling went quick, except I had to drop down my exhaust in back to get at a couple of the bolt holes.

Hope this helps!
John

 

[87gninpa]

Thanks for that info Yankee John, I think ill just return these now and get some quality arms that actually fit the car. Everyone always says "You get what you pay for" and now I see first hand what they mean

 

[Yankee John]

Don't get me wrong- I love the UMI bars! But in order for them to fit properly without any extra rattles and looseness, the mounting bolt holes need to be slightly enlarged. I had the benefit of a lift, so the drilling-out part only took an extra 25-30 minutes to do. And I do like the fact that my mounting bolts are now all new and grade 8.

I think the same applies to anyone using Energy Supsension polyurethane bushing kits in their G-bodies, As that is where UMI sources their bushings from.

John

 

[BOOSTD1]

i did the same thing yankee john did

 

[coach]

Yeh, I hate the fact that aftermarket arms use 3/4 thick wall chromoly tubing which has a .510 hole and the frame and housing has the 12mm clearance(0.472) hole. Drill out the frame and housing holes to .500 and tap in the bolts. A 1/2 bolt is around .492-.497 and should go thru no problem. The swat bar holes are the same way. The aftermarket trailing arm holes are different than whats in the swaybar. The bolt rattles around like a marble in a tin can. I have Metco arms , so I drilled the holes bigger the the arms to match.

Thanks
Coach

 

[JRC86GN]

Torque spec (according to UMI) is 72 ft/lbs.

IF you have polyurethane bushings- an FYI: I used UMI tubular uppers and lowers on my GN. The bushings are sourced from Energy Suspension by UMI. The factory bolts are 12mm, while the poly bushings are slightly larger at 1/2". If you use the factory bolts, there will be a good bit more play and subsequent rattles.

I drilled all of my rear end mounting holes to 1/2" and bought new grade 8, 1/2" x 4 inch bolts, lock washers, and nuts from my local Tractor Supply store (for about $12). Drilling went quick, except I had to drop down my exhaust in back to get at a couple of the bolt holes.

Hope this helps!
John

Do the bolts need to be 4" long or will 3 1/2 " work?

Thanks
Jack

 

[Yankee John]

Definately 4" long. I got 3 3/4" at first thinking that they would be long enough and I ended up exchanging them for 4" bolts........

John

 

[JRC86GN]

Definately 4" long. I got 3 3/4" at first thinking that they would be long enough and I ended up exchanging them for 4" bolts........

John

Thanks
Just wanted to be sure.

How about upper bolts?

I am going to be replacing my upper also and would like to get new bolts for them as well

Thanks
Jack