Is this wear pattern acceptable/normal???

[turbohh]

Had to take my new stroker build out again (munched my new PTE CEA Turbo, wanted to change lifters, and check cylinder health anyway), and my engine builder pulled the heads... I thought I'd ask you engine guru's if this amount of side-load wear from a 3.625" stroke crank is normal or acceptable. My leak down was in the 9-10% range with Total Seal rings/JE pistons installed with ~4.5 thou side wall clearance on the diameter/K1 long rods and about 1300 miles on the build. My builder wasn't too concerned about the side load pattern, other than maybe surprised at how pronounced it was. Comments??? Also, it looks like I may be sucking oil in somewhere, but the intake side of everything looked dry and happy. I do have the trick teflon valve stem seals on both the intake (for sure) and exhaust (I think), and am using beehive springs... the seals all looked intact, although we haven't disassembled the heads yet. I do run the correct Buick PCV, and use the AMP valley pan also. My PTE turbo was blowing a lot of oil out the turbine side (which is why I started this time out), but the intake side (compressor/intercooler/up-pipe/intake doghouse/intake ports were all clean and dry. Any thoughts?? Thanks in advance for helpful comments...
John A, Turbohh

Cylinder 2:


Cylinder 4:


Cylinder 1:

 

[S10xGN]

...My PTE turbo was blowing a lot of oil out the turbine side (which is why I started this time out), but the intake side (compressor/intercooler/up-pipe/intake doghouse/intake ports were all clean and dry. Any thoughts?? Thanks in advance for helpful comments...
John A, Turbohh

Could be a restriction in the oil return line and/or no restrictor in the feed line. This could blow oil past the seals and push it into the exhaust.

 

[turbohh]

Thanks for the tip... I'll discuss my turbo failure with PTE when they get it apart and have a diagnosis... I was using Mark Hueffman's -4 AN/Canton filter kit to feed clean oil to the CHRA... My oil pressure didn't seem too hogh, about 70psi cold, and 30-40 hot at highway cruise... I may step up to their dual ball bearing CHRA that has a restriction built in...

Still wondering about the cylinder wear...
John A

 

[BEATAV8]

looks fine from here.

 

[turbohh]

Steve,
Thanks for looking at the pix and the reassuring assessment... I don't want to be pulling this motor out again for a while...
John A

 

[Chuck Leeper]

My $.02:
The piston top look to have a considerable amt of crud on them, for only 1300 mi.
The combustion pattern looks to be a bit odd. [1 side clean, 1 dirty].
#6 looks, [from what little shows], is in like new condition.
Maybe, a set of pics w/ an overall shot of each bank?

I think I'd be looking at the brgs, while it's out.

 

[turbohh]

Chuck,
I noticed the intake/exhaust pattern on the crud too... I think we determined it to be predominantly on the exhaust side. #6 is clean because I wiped it off with solvent to see how easily the crud came off... it was easily removed, not like burned on oil. I've had to move the car around several times to move other cars and my car trailer, so it's had several starts with little time to warm up (didn't want to run the hurt turbo any longer than needed), so maybe some of the build up is from not being able to warm up at all... We'll pull rod and main bearings and check for abnormal wear. The oil looked good, and there wasn't any significant debris in the Canton oil filter canister. Unfortunately, I'll be away from home for a week, and unable to get more pix until I get back ... I'll also know more about bearing condition then too. Thanks for your advice!!
John A

 

[Chuck Leeper]

Chuck,
I noticed the intake/exhaust pattern on the crud too... I think we determined it to be predominantly on the exhaust side. #6 is clean because I wiped it off with solvent to see how easily the crud came off... it was easily removed, not like burned on oil. I've had to move the car around several times to move other cars and my car trailer, so it's had several starts with little time to warm up (didn't want to run the hurt turbo any longer than needed), so maybe some of the build up is from not being able to warm up at all... We'll pull rod and main bearings and check for abnormal wear. The oil looked good, and there wasn't any significant debris in the Canton oil filter canister. Unfortunately, I'll be away from home for a week, and unable to get more pix until I get back ... I'll also know more about bearing condition then too. Thanks for your advice!!
John A

Keep us informed.... maybe, between others we can determine, [or at least, narrow down the suspect list].
As for the cyl walls, I'd suspect that the stroker, use of long rods, has pushed the wrist pin location up toward the ring pkge, allowing for piston rock to be exaggerated.

 

[turbohh]

Yeah, my builder suspected that's what was going on with the wear pattern...
John A

 

[earlbrown]

On the first picture does the cylinder look like that in real life or was the flash and/or lighting making it look like the piston wiped the crosshatch right off the cylinder? Also, it looks like there's a "dirty ring" around where the top ring would stop. Much like you'd see on a cheep SBC build where someone 'deglazes' the cyliner with a 3stone hone and the bellmouth doesn't come clean.

Also, on that first pic it looks like there's one long scratch that stands out from the others.... Would that area happen to coincide with a ring gap (or lack thereof)?

 

[1fastcobra]

I would definitely ck the cylinder for roundness the bottom to the center of the cylinder looks to be having a nice wear pattern. The rest of the cylinder does not look like its wearing evenly. At all. Do you know if the cylinders were honed with a tork plate? ? With only 1300 miles . it should have a even wear pattern. Moly rings. File fitted.

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