Jegs 8 point roll bar ?????

[Quickturbosix]

Anyone using this set up?
If so do the rear bars go threw the rear deck speaker locations?

Any other options for a bar?
At $149.99 for a 8 point I think its a good deal.

Thanks guys!

 

[azgn]

you will, no doubt, get what you pay for........all you are buying is some steel tube......the devil (and the cost) is in the install

 

[Turbo 6 Justin]

I have looked at this thing for 2 years and at $150 plus 100 for shipping it is not a bad deal at all. the only problems I have with it is the fact that it is .134 wall and NHRA specs .095 I believe so it is a bit more added weight. That and there is not a lot of room for adjustment in where things go. Anyway we put a jegster cage in a buddy's mudstang (has GN also) and it actually worked pretty well. There was a bit of trimming and fitment to do but overall it worked pretty well. If you can weld and don't mind someone else making up your mind on where to run the tubes and don't mind a little extra weight you can have a cage installed for $250.

I would suggest grabbing the 10 pt cage for $200 as you can always add it on in the future.

One more instilation note you will probably have to take out the rear window in order to get the headliner in and out so that you don't burn it while welding, that is if you even want one.

 

[bob86gn]

I do almost everything else on the GN myself and contemplated doing my own rollbar. If the car is clean and you want it to look professional and you are not a fabricator, have someone who is put it in for you.

I just had Cotton put a 6 point in and it is perfect. I clears everything and is very inconspicuous. Well worth the money. I did all the interior removal, and reinstallation, painted the bar and resealed the window. I am very happy with the results. Jack told me that any of the kits he has used he winds up just using the hoop and some of the connectors and custom bends everything else. It is worth the money for the finished product and not having the aggravation.

 

[NoNos38]

I bought the Kit you are talking about from summit.. Out of a 1-10 scale I would rate it a 6. The kit comes with the back bars that stick right threw the back seat, Or you will have to take it out.. My dad had some pipe lying around that I made to fit threw the speaker holes.. Like some one said this is just some pipe you are buying.. The swingouts were an Extra $60.00$ a piece. If you Know how to weld, and have all the right tool's I would say do it.. But if you dont I could see it being a bitch
Good luck,
Matt

 

[Chuck Leeper]

"Bargain bars"???

The bars you are looking at are mild steel and are .134" wall... Per NHRA.
The post on them being .095 for a lighter bar is a bit off. The bar can be made of chrome moly tubing and must have a wall of .083". Additionally, ALL moly bar welds HAVE to be TIG welded, NOT wire gunned.
The TR is considered to have a frame and as such, the bars, either moly or mild steel, MUST weld to the frame. The mudstain referred to does not have the frame as a GN does, thus the bars are welded to 6"x 6" x 1/8" plates welded to the floor pan.
The average costs to put in a REAL roll bar runs in the $100+ per point area.
Do yourself a favor and buy a rule book, before you spend alot of money and still can't legally race....

 

[Turbo 6 Justin]

okay I finally found the NHRA ruel booksitting here it states 1.75" tube .118 mild steel or .083 4130 chromoly

Moly must be tig'ed mild can be (and should be sticked or mig'ed) the weld's can not be ground to clean them up. there is a lot of other stuff in here about the placement of the bars and I am actually thinking about typing it all out since I had to drop the $10 and wait 1 week to get this one page of writing.

I agree on the $100 per point thing as I have to get 4 cages in the next few months (2 cars 2 jeeps) and I am very familiar with the cage process.

If you can find someone that will bend tube for you for free, do it if not take a little less and get the jegster kit, weight will be more, location not as exact, and custom stuff will not be included of course.

As chuck said on a GN it has to be into the frame, that is a pain (my advice cut 4x4 plates out of the floor run the tubes then patch the plates back in). there are options though it costs $$$ to get a good cage, on the otherhand it takes a lot of time to make your own. I have a whole lote more time than money so I wil be doing my own.


If I type out the NHRA cage rules will someone post it for me?

 

[Quickturbosix]

Hmm well what other vendors carry a kit that is for the GN? I thought I heard that BGC makes one but there is nothing on there site. I really want one set up to go threw the rear deck. I seen a few with swing out options for the rear seat bar. That way you could still put some peeps back there if you had to.

I seen alot of bolt in kits at the nats, is this ok?

Local track is going to make me have one I know. Dont want to get kicked out on the first run. I think they use IHRA rules.

I don't mind paying a little more at all. I never bought a bar and have only seen the kits from summit and jegs. There is a local shop near me but they are high $. My buddy had his 69 camaro done there $1800! It was a 12 point cage for a 9 sec car tho.

Does Cotton pre bend kits?

 

[Chuck Leeper]

Roll bars

This subject has had alot of posts, some just recently. Suggest those interested do a search.
DO NOT stick weld a roll bar.Slag inclusions will cause serious strength issues and promote cracks. It is NOT an NHRA approved welding method.
The .118 is OK, IF the tube is sonic tested prior to use. Mill runs of so called .120 wall are often under the minimum of .118. Thus the use of .134 to assure compliance. [NOTE: both the M/S and moly tube must be 1 3/4" OD. 1 5/8" tube comes into play ONLY when a cage is installed.]
BOLT IN kits in a GN ARE NOT LEGAL, regardless of what was at BG. There it's pretty much "if it's not on fire and upside down, race it".
Here's the latest return e-mail from NHRA on a bolt in seat support bar:

"As for the crossbar, the only bolt-in (removable) bars that we allow are the swing-out side bars. The cross bar must be welded in. The only exception to this is if the car does not require a roll bar or cage and therefore, the bars can be done whatever way they want, but as soon as they run fast enough to require a bar, it will need to be changed. If you have more questions, please feel free to contact us."

As a reference to wt, I am installing a moly 6 pt in my car this week. The main hoop in moly weighs 14#. The same hoop in M/S .134 wall is 23#.
Referring to cost: There's no free lunch.. if you want it done RIGHT, pay the man. .134 M/S tube is about $2.50/ft. The .083 moly is $5.00+/ft.


I'd suggest anyone that is putting a bar in their car, read and adhere to the rules and forget the "ya, but my buddy's car is a bolt in, made w/ exhaust tube and they let him run".

Nuf said,

 

[Butch]

I don't know who did it but Cal Hartline had a really nice bar in his car at BG.

Butch

 

[Nashty]

Chuck my good man, educated at one of the world's finest engineering college - Bradley University.

Question. I want to make up my own full chassis for another car I'm planning on building. Will one of those cheapo hydraulic cylinder with a radiused mandrel and a couple of rollers cave in the pipe in the bends? Like exhaust pipe does, not like mandrel bent pipe.

If not, I'm getting one and making up my own chassis for the car but I'll still use a kit as the basis as the main hoop is probably the toughest to make. BTW, the car will have a 12pt. cage.

 

[Turbo 6 Justin]

chuck it seams as though we are arguing with each other here and I just want to let you know that is not the case, in actuality we have managed to bring out a lot of good info. I talked to the local track tech today and he agreed on the not to stick weld the cage idea, he said he has seen them come through and as long as they are clean he lets it go through. he did say that if you are welding a plate to the frame so that it ties the cage in it is okay to stick it but I would still rather use mig it's cleaner and a lot easier when working in the hellish places that the tubes actually run.

I also agree .120 can go below .118 sometimes so I suppose it is probably a good idea to run the .134.
on the crossbar though you can step down to 1.250 OD .118. I guess I should just figure I am putting in a cage it willl add weight but I like my skull too much to not have one

I still don't like the kit cause it is hard to hide cause the tubes are already bent and can't really be changed that much. If you have ever seen lonnie's cage it is a great model to look at if you are the typical street racer/weekend warrior that a lot of us seam to be, it is legal and is very stealthy that is what I am looking at in a cage not something that everyone will notice as I drive by.

Oh yeah and it is widely known the tech at the nats is a 'little' loose, I mean I saw a guy run a high 10 without even a helmet. but so it goes.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

Arguement??

No Arguement intended. This subject has been beaten to death and seems to come up about evey 6 months. My point was/is very simple: READ THE BOOK AND COMPLY. There are NO deviations allowed for what some "tech guy" may think is correct. It's kinda like being pregnant, either you are or you are not. There's no "almost pregnant"!!!
The problems w/ the local tech "interpretation" gets the car passed at 1 track and bounced at another.
The purpose of complying w/ the "book", is to have a leg to stand on when you are confronted w/ a tech guy that wants to tech your car to his "rules".
I carry the current book w/ me to EVERY race. It has a permanent place in the tool box... Right next to the .44

I guess I've been around long enough to see guys spend ABSURD amts of $$, only to get tossed due to nonconformance.

End of the story... Back to welding my roll bar in!!

 

[Chuck Leeper]

PIPE BENDERZ

Nashty, thanx for the kind words... Kinda like my signature??
The problem w/ "bending your own" is kinda like "rolling your own"..It doesn't always come out looking the way you want it to!:
In order to get the bend start points, die lead in dimensions and spring back percentages right, you will need a bender that has a degree wheel, spring back lock and a method for determining the bend locations, IE: the MITTLER bend calc program.
Those benders you are referring to don't do that. In addition , the dies have to be machined to prevent pipe deformation and collapsing during hi degree bends.
To give you an example, I am doing a commercial bend job for someone here in Atl. The piece is 76" long, has 2 simple 90* bends in it and has to have the ends come out the same length on both legs. I have the above bender and the programs too... Have STILL wasted 20' of tube getting the bends in the right place!! Hell, I even have scraps from my last bar project to use up on other projects!!

If you are going to do a complete chassis, I'd either find a shop and have them do the bending, or buy a JD Squared bender and hyd system and sell bending to other guys in the area to pay for it... Bout $1500 w/ all the good dies.

Bottom line: don't waste your money on the roller/bender deal.!!