Kirban's window speed up instructions

[Turbo6Smackdown]

Ok. I bought two of his kits a long time ago and it's time to install one, and I can't find the instructions. Anyone have a copy, or know where I could get a copy fast?

 

[Turbo6Smackdown]

And Garyk1970. Could you help me understand some of this stuff you wrote?

"Heres A Pic Of The Motor Out Of Door.

A Pic Of The Cover On The Connector Side Of The Motor (some Motors Has This Cover,some Do Not).it just snaps off.

Heres A Pic Of The "test Port".this Is Used (WITH A VOM,TEST LIGHT)To See If Voltage Is Passing Through The Load Resistor.if Battery Equivalent (within 1-1.5 Volt) Is Found In This Test Port While Pushing Window Switch To Run Motor Being Tested,the Wiring,resistor,etc Is Good.stop Here And Replace Motor.

If Voltage Is Not Sufficient At The Plug On The Motor,check Switches,grounds,and The Circuit Breaker In The Fuse Box.

if theres good voltage at the motor plug,but not at the resistor test port,the resistor is faulty and this mod will definitely help ."

1. If battery equivalent? What does battery equivalent mean?
2. Test port while pushing window switch to run motor being tested. While pushing window switch? So is the test port the switch, the plug that goes onto the motor to power it, or the motor itself?
3. At the plug on the motor? I thought the plug and motor were separate entities. The plug plugs into the motor... And what voltage? What voltage range am I looking for?

 

[Turbo6Smackdown]

"Tools/parts Needed;

Small Piece (6") Of At Least 16 Ga Wire
3m T Tap (blue)
Male Spade Connector (blue)
Small Ring Terminal (blue)
Test Light/ohm Meter
Electronics Cleaner
Small Pic
Spray Grease
Good Crimpers
30 Amp Blade Fuse (green)"

But you show a screw too. Was that screw off of the motor, or did we have to supply it. If we have to supply it, what size it it? Length and thread.

"The Jump Lead Will Now Connect To The Wire (in My Vans Case,blue.)" What about in our case?
"(one Wire Will Show Negative,and The Other Will Show Positive Going Up.)" How does these wires "show" negative and positive? Is it written on them? Does it only show positive as it's "going up"? I ask all of this stuff because this is what's going to happen to me when I rip my door apart, and I don't really want my car sitting torn to pieces for 2 weeks because that's how long it took me to figure it all out. I need all the answers before I engage in this endeavor.
Also, how do we clean and tighten the terminals on the plug? What do you recommend?
"(the CB will keep trying to reconnect voltage) now instead,the fuse will blow and you'll know to check the system." Ok so now what if the fuse blows. I gotta yank all this stuff apart and replace the fuse? What if I don't put a fuse in there?
"and I'm willing to bet if i went and replaced this motor with a brand new delco,it wouldn't keep up" Keep up with what? Are you meaning the newer ones are slower than the older ones?

Thanks for all your help.

 

[standupjskiguy]

I'll take a stab at explaining.
Battery equivalent means 12volts.
The test port is a hole in the end of the motor where you can probe with a meter lead and see if you have enough voltage with the window switch depressed.
Inside the motor assembly, there is a circuit breaker type device that develops high resistance and slows the window motor over time.
It's original purpose is to stop the motor if something gets stuck in the window mechanism. Z(Like a hand.) It worked ok for years but now they are failing.
The test port is after or past the circuit breaker. If you have about 12 volts to that with the window switch depressed, stop there, you have a bad motor. But if the voltage is low, like less than 10 volts, the circuit breaker is bad. Now what you need to do.
You look at the wires that go to the motor assembly. You are trying to find the one that goes to the circuit breaker. If you ground the negative of your meter to the car body's metal, probe the other wires. With you depress the switch up, I believe. If you get a reading of 12volts, that will be the wire you want to "t-tap" into. Put the tapping device on it and the wire coming out goes to the fuse holder.
With your meter's red lead on positive and black on negative, that indicates positive voltage. If your meter goes below zero, that means negative voltage. The polarity reverses when you put the switch in the down position. The motor runs forward or backward depending on polarity of voltage.
The other wire of the fuse holder goes to a screw that screws into the test port. I don't know the size of the screw. It's I believe a sheet metal screw. (You could always buy an assortment kit.)
When to screw is screwed in and it touches the test metal inside the motor assembly, with the tapped-fused wire attached, voltage now flows through the added fuse and into the motor bypassing the circuit breaker device. The fuse will only blow if your window motor gets stuck. (But I think 30 amps is too big of a fuse.) I'd try a ten amp.

I hope this helps.

 

[Turbo6Smackdown]

It does indeed. Thank you