Knock Knock, please help out..

wiked87gn

Banned
Joined
May 25, 2001
got this new T type and having a hard time tunning the thing, the car had a variable timing chip in addition to a three bar map put under the dash to aid with the boost feedback, weird set up but anyways, part throttle gets lots of knock this car makes boost like mad, 1/4 throttle and boost is up at 16psi and knocking like crazy, with the propain on at 50% still knocks hard, the knock goes away for a couple of frames but it comes right back at WOT big time , I noticed the downpipe is hitting the frame but that would cause false knock not real knock, the engine was assemble with a single steel shimm gasket which bring compression to around 9 to1 which means running 15 psi on this motor is like running close to 19 psi, but still with 91 pump and propain on the knock should not even be existent. I have direct scan hooked up in the car with the old chip it was showing way lean thus causing the major knock, so i took off the 3 bar map and hook had a new chip put in, still getting knock at part throttle but now its running way rich, around 850's or 870's on the 02's or should I say around 9 to 1 and 10 to 1. what is going on, should i be looking at something else on this thing, is driving me nuts.. btw the car has a caspers fuel pump in tank that is hotwire from the relay on 3 bar map at the fender on the car, fuel pressure holds good , 13.7 volts from the alternator so that is also good, any ideas feel free the chimme in... also has ported heads/intake/ stock ported turbo and inlet, so this things flows air like mad and that explains the spool being so quick at part throttle..
should the car be going on open loop at WOT or CLOSE loop, i noticed that it stays at close loop no matter what weather it be wot or at idle, only time when its open its at initial start up ..
 
Most chips will all have closed loop reported all the time so thats normal except during warmup but it all depends on what the chip maker has done with the code, O/L idle or O/L full time or whatever else can be done. I'd suggest getting a FP gauge on there and verify that WOT FP is correct for whatever boost you can run w/o knocking itself to death. Then turn off the propane, fix the issues its having, get the car tuned on 91 octane then go back to tuning w/ the gas.
 
the fuel delivery is there, there is no lack of it, i did have a fuel pressure gauge on the car and it shows steady increase and stays there for the remainer of the boost until I let off it goes back down, I will first try to move the downpipe from hitting the frame, (I swear ATR downpipes are useless) they make those things to short from the turbo to the bent, so the bend downwards is almost right up to the damn frame.. anybody else feel free to give your imput..
 
OK, so the fuel's there, what amount of spark advance is shown in DS when the knock occurs and at about 0.5 sec before the knock occurs since things are usually going bad way before the knock even actually happens?
 
I dont know about what amount of timing when the knock occurs but i have changed to a new chip and this one is only 18* of timing all the way through, i am going to modify the downpipe and extend it 1 inch more so that it will stay away from the frame, I have also changed somethings that may have been causing the knock IE( the setup the previous owner had with a remote mounted chip) there were a bunch of wires way too close to each other and they were touching eachother exposed for a lack of better word, i will keep on it until i get it this thing right, btw what is the black knob between the two gauges on the propane tank, which way does it have to be turned all the way in or all the way out, i called the people from the propane company and let me tell you, their service sucksssssssss, plain and simply left a message yesterday and still not heard anything from them...
 
your assuming its cumbustion chamber knock and not mechanical like a wristpin or a rod bearing etc etc .



false knock real knock no different if the sensor picks it up

if o2s were way down id look for fuel issues or injectors but that doesnt sem to be the case , you can get rich knock too

if you have a straight race chip try it with race gas no propain and if see if shes knocking,
if the chip is burned like an alky chip for use with propane you have to have the propane or more fuel because the chip would have less fuel programmed in to the injectors
 
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