You can type here any text you want

length of studs to pass tech?

Welcome!

By registering with us, you'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.

SignUp Now!

V6UnderPressure

The Artist FKA Scott4DMny
Joined
May 27, 2001
Messages
2,912
im trying to find an answer. i know alot of racers have extra long wheel studs. but i read an article that they dont need to be extra long yet just protrude through the lug at the diameter or more of the wheel stud. is this true?
 
Yes, it's true. The stud has to protrude through the lug nut by the same measure as the stud's diameter. Anything longer than that is accepted but not mandatory.

Claude.
 
Unless the rules have changed in the last 20 years they do not need to protrude past the outer face of the lugnut.
The stud needs to protrude past the mating surface of the lug where it tightens up against the wheel the diameter of the stud.
Most people that I know trim the stud off flush with the face of the lugut.

With this said it's best to check the rules that fit the class you'll be racing in.

ks
 
Yes, it's true. The stud has to protrude through the lug nut by the same measure as the stud's diameter. Anything longer than that is accepted but not mandatory.

Claude.

So you are saying that closed end lug nuts would not pass spec even if the stud goes through it as far as possible?
 
Unless the rules have changed in the last 20 years they do not need to protrude past the outer face of the lugnut.
The stud needs to protrude past the mating surface of the lug where it tightens up against the wheel the diameter of the stud.
Most people that I know trim the stud off flush with the face of the lugut.

With this said it's best to check the rules that fit the class you'll be racing in.

ks


I won't be racing in a class, I am just trying to cover my bases to pass spec for a trip to a "test & tune" or something similar.
 
they dont need to protrude out of the lugnut
the correct word is engage
the stud threads need to engage the lugnut (with threads) atleast as deep into the lug as the stud is wide, for 12mm studs thats 12mm of thread needs to be inside the lugnut measured after the rim face with washer
and that goes for front wheels as well as rear

on cone lug OE stock rims with the stock lugs and lugnuts as long as you arent running a spacer is fine for tech
open lugs make it easier to inspect and to allow for rim changes but ive never been asked about my lugs .
if questioned at tech you could always pull a lugnut to check
on stock and aftermarket cone style rims (centerline telstar) i run the gta style truck lugs as those are heavy duty open lug with plenty of inside threads and have an easy to remove cap for tech guys . i use a tall gta style cap to cover the longer studs

with aftermarket rims and spacers things change.
weld draglite a shank style rim has a thick core and needs a long stud and a proper shank lugnut (dont run them with deep shank lugnuts and stock studs!!)
they need the stud threads to stick out a minimum of 12mm past the face of the rim and washer.
and the lugnut must have threads in the lugnut to engage the stud at that 12mm point
running the long studs and using cheap lugnuts that dont have threads 12mm past the rim is a good way to loose a wheel
some shank lugs dont have any threads past the face and ive seen a car spit both rims on a launch with those
for shank the best open end race lugnut is the mcgard , they are threaded end to end and washers are tough , all other shank lugs ive tried are inferior junk

and spacers are legal provided you only run one per side , stacking two is not allowed
 
pacecarta said:
they dont need to protrude out of the lugnut
the correct word is engage
the stud threads need to engage the lugnut (with threads) atleast as deep into the lug as the stud is wide
and thats measured after the face with washer .
for 12mm studs thats 12mm of thread needs to be inside the lugnut
and that goes for front wheels as well as rear

on cone lug OE stock rims with the stock lugs and lugnuts as long as you arent running a spacer is fine for tech
open lugs make it easier to inspect and to allow for rim changes but ive never been asked about my lugs .
if questioned at tech you could always pull a lugnut to check
on stock and aftermarket cone style rims (centerline telstar) i run the gta style truck lugs as those are heavy duty open lug with plenty of inside threads and have an easy to remove cap for tech guys . i use a tall cap on the rears to cover the longer studs

with aftermarket rims and spacers things change.
weld draglite a shank style rim has a thick core and needs a long stud and a proper shank lugnut (dont run them with deep shank lugnuts and stock studs
they need the stud threads to stick out a minimum of 12mm past the face of the rim and washer.
and the lugnut must have threads in the lugnut 12mm point
running the long studs and using a cheap lugnuts that dont have threads 12mm past the rim is a good way to loose a wheel
some shank lugs dont have any threads past the face and ive seen a car spit both rims on a launch with those
for shank the best open end race lugnut is the mcgard , they are threaded end to end and washers are tough , all other shank lugs ive tried are inferior junk

and spacers are legal provided you only run one per side , stacking two is not allowed

You forgot to close the parenthesis :)
 
what was i thinking :rolleyes:
i dont use caps or periods , or structure my paragraphs but hopefully you could follow what i was saying

when i do use caps i mean them

like this
I FIXED THE MISSING PARENTHESIS , ARE YOU HAPPY? :p
 
what was i thinking :rolleyes:
i dont use caps or periods , or structure my paragraphs but hopefully you could follow what i was saying

when i do use caps i mean them

like this
I FIXED THE MISSING PARENTHESIS , ARE YOU HAPPY? :p
LOL!!!

KS
 
So you are saying that closed end lug nuts would not pass spec even if the stud goes through it as far as possible?
I don't know if closed lug nuts are ok but I've always thought the stud had to exceed the end of the lug nut by at least the same measure as the stud's diameter, but after reading Paul's long post, I dunno anymore. He seems to say it's not exceeding out of the lug nut but rather out of the wheel...Really?...
But there's one thing for sure, it can't hurt to have them longer.

Claude. :)
 
I don't know if closed lug nuts are ok but I've always thought the stud had to exceed the end of the lug nut by at least the same measure as the stud's diameter, but after reading Paul's long post, I dunno anymore. He seems to say it's not exceeding out of the lug nut but rather out of the wheel...Really?...
But there's one thing for sure, it can't hurt to have them longer.

Claude. :)

They do not need to extend past the end of the nut.
Open nuts are used so Tech can see the end of the studs. Factory studs on some aluminum wheels (Weld Draglites) do not extend past the surface of the wheel so these studs would not pass tech with this wheel and an open lugnut would allow them to see this.

But as you said a longer stud is better than a shorter stud..:eek:

ks
 
i remember the NHRA rulebook saying that the stud needed to extend into the hex portion of the nut by at least the diameter of the stud- so the stock 12mm wheel studs would have to go 12mm past where the taper is on an acorn style lug nut, and 12mm past the shoulder of a mag style lug nut..

if you are running open lug nuts, you are good if it's at least flush with the top of the nut, and those stupid studs that hange 3" out past the wheel are only good for cutting the tires of the car in the other lane if it looks like he's gonna win..
 
Back
Top