pmoore4321
Member
- Joined
- Jan 10, 2010
- Messages
- 608
Some may have read my post a while back concerning the problems with the work by a local machine shop.
http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/en...e-block-back-shop-check-out-cam-bearings.html
I basically replaced the damaged cam bearings myself and assembled the engine with my fingers crossed. A year later and about 2500 miles, it's still running fine...or so I thought. The engine always seemed to take a "little" longer to fire when starting. I watched countless youtube videos of people "bumping" the key and their engines immediately firing. Mine never did this and always made what sounded like two or three revolutions before kicking off. Along with a slow start, I had a *slight* rough idle which I thought was the norm with these engines. I checked and double checked everything when I put the engine together EXCEPT lifter preload. I simply ordered the suggested pushrods for my combo(Champion irons and a roller cam) and assembled. Bad move!
I always felt that the preload was tight and I ordered a Crane Cams shim kit from Summit. I spent about an hour or so tonight adding .030 shims to the rocker shaft. It took me longer to wrestle the valve covers off than it did to install the shims. Well, long story short...the engine now idles absolutely perfect and my vacuum went from 15in to 18in at idle. The car starts by bumping the starter and the "power band" of the engine seems to roll on a LOT more smooth. I cannot believe how much difference .030 made!
I'm going to order an adjustable pushrod next week to really nail down the correct preload.
For the curious here are my mods:
Grand National mods - pmoore4321
The pushrods I am using are 8.050"
I forgot to mention that I was previously fighting low BLMs. After a short cruise tonight, without an ECM reset, the ScanMaster did not drop below 126.
http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/en...e-block-back-shop-check-out-cam-bearings.html
I basically replaced the damaged cam bearings myself and assembled the engine with my fingers crossed. A year later and about 2500 miles, it's still running fine...or so I thought. The engine always seemed to take a "little" longer to fire when starting. I watched countless youtube videos of people "bumping" the key and their engines immediately firing. Mine never did this and always made what sounded like two or three revolutions before kicking off. Along with a slow start, I had a *slight* rough idle which I thought was the norm with these engines. I checked and double checked everything when I put the engine together EXCEPT lifter preload. I simply ordered the suggested pushrods for my combo(Champion irons and a roller cam) and assembled. Bad move!
I always felt that the preload was tight and I ordered a Crane Cams shim kit from Summit. I spent about an hour or so tonight adding .030 shims to the rocker shaft. It took me longer to wrestle the valve covers off than it did to install the shims. Well, long story short...the engine now idles absolutely perfect and my vacuum went from 15in to 18in at idle. The car starts by bumping the starter and the "power band" of the engine seems to roll on a LOT more smooth. I cannot believe how much difference .030 made!
I'm going to order an adjustable pushrod next week to really nail down the correct preload.
For the curious here are my mods:
Grand National mods - pmoore4321
The pushrods I am using are 8.050"
I forgot to mention that I was previously fighting low BLMs. After a short cruise tonight, without an ECM reset, the ScanMaster did not drop below 126.