You can type here any text you want

Line Lock install tips please

Welcome!

By registering with us, you'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.

SignUp Now!

"Turbo-T"

V6 on steroids
Joined
Jan 10, 2007
Messages
7,393
I am going to be installing a Biondo line lock and wanted to get a few tips.

1. I have heard a line lock is supposed to be installed AFTER the proportioning valve. Is this so? Or can it be installed before the proportioning?

2. For putting one of these on a Buick Regal, I am going to assume you were required to get the proper adapter fittings to do the job? If so, what size adapter fittings will I need?

Thanks!
 
Both of mine are before the prop. valve located up by the powermaster.

I'd say it's probably a 50/50 mix on the install percentage vs. down below.

NHRA legal is down below I believe.

I have been to LVD and Englishtown in NY to race never seen an official look at or comment on the install up top.

The brake light comes on when you use it, goes out after you put on the brakes.

If you have a good flaring tool or a local mechanic with one you simply cut the end off the factory metric line and add a 3/16" flared nut to the end and reflare it to 3/16" to fit the NPT to 3/16" flare that goes to the output of the line lock. Bend the line carefully over to the line lock valve install location which is usually on the plastic wheelwell, there's a nub on it you can use for mounting.

Input to the line lock is a new piece of proper length 3/16" brake line, cut one end off to go into the powermaster and reflare it and use the metric nut on it you removed from the stock line, other end stays 3/16" and goes into the input of the line lock port, 3/16" flare to NPT adapter at the line lock.

Kinda easy that way. :)

Plenty of other ways to do it as well. :cool:

And yes the line I added can be bent a lot better than it was. :p

th_linelockGN.jpg
 
one thing that no line lock has ever put in their directions is you will need a new set of tires. Especially if you run it on the street... lol.... Once nstalled mine my brand new tires were gone in about 8-9 months. Only th centers worn out... Salvage summed it up best....
 
If you have a good flaring tool or a local mechanic with one you simply cut the end off the factory metric line and add a 3/16" flared nut to the end and reflare it to 3/16" to fit the NPT to 3/16" flare that goes to the output of the line lock. Bend the line carefully over to the line lock valve install location which is usually on the plastic wheelwell, there's a nub on it you can use for mounting.

Input to the line lock is a new piece of proper length 3/16" brake line, cut one end off to go into the powermaster and reflare it and use the metric nut on it you removed from the stock line, other end stays 3/16" and goes into the input of the line lock port, 3/16" flare to NPT adapter at the line lock.

Yes I do have a tubing bender but I strongly prefer adapter fittings. That way if I ever wanted to return the car to stock like condition I can just put the line back on, not have to go out and buy a new end piece and mess with trying to make it fit.

So are the end fittings 3/16 size? That way I can tell the guy at Napa I need a size to convert my line lock to that size.

one thing that no line lock has ever put in their directions is you will need a new set of tires. Especially if you run it on the street... lol.... Once nstalled mine my brand new tires were gone in about 8-9 months. Only th centers worn out... Salvage summed it up best....

Yes I have noticed that on the last two hot rods I owned, I had line locks on both of them. One of them I burned the tires down so thin they were almost ready to pop when removed. But I was the king of burnouts and left many a nice dual patches along the roads, even beating out a friend of mine who we used to have burnout contests to see who could leave the longest blackest marks. :D We used to call it "autographing the road". ;)
 
The size line you use is based upon what adapters came with the line lock.

You only cut off 1/4" of the stock line to remove the nut and flared part, to get it over to the new location you just bend it a bit.

To return to stock you simply cut the line 1/4" flared end again and put the metric nut back on it reflare it and go back into the power master.

Adapters are only another source to leak and you have 2 into the line lock most likely if the ports are NPT threads on it like most are.

Size your lines to your adapter fittings that came with the kit, should be some instructions in there as well.

Some adapters use 1/4" tube.

I doubt there's gonna be metric adapters in there but they probably do exist.
 
The size line you use is based upon what adapters came with the line lock.

No adapters came with the line lock.

I guess I should have just made it easier: can someone please tell me what size fittings are used on the brake lines that run out of the proportioning valve to the front brakes?

I need to know the body size and the thread count.

Thanks!
 
So from the factory the fittings were metric?

What size are the fittings? And what is the thread count?

BTW I've never had any fittings leak on me.
 
1. NPT and inverted flares
2.2- male connector # 124320--$1.49 ( 2 @ 2.98) EDELMANN 1/8” NPT to 3/16” inverted flare fitting….OR 2 # 122320 that are 90*(elbows).
The lines on the brakes is inverted flare fitting

Hope this helps
 
I think it will help....

proportioningvalve002.jpg


When you say "1/8 NPT to 3/16 fittings", are you implying that the fitting body itself is 1/8 NPT but it's designed to accomodate a 3/16 line?

I apologize for so many questions, just trying to make sense of it.
 
tubing is 3/16" --the fitting is also 3/16"(look inside the fitting hole on the "P-valve" and you will see a small ridge(circle) around the fluid hole....this is what made this fitting a inverted flare--instead of NPT(pipe thread) inverted flare.

I deal with questions all the time:) .......if a person does not ask questions--- the learning/understanding process is slower OR not at all, SO ask-away:cool: .
Hope this helps
 
Thanx, I just noticed on my Biondo line lock it's said to have 1/8 NPT fittings but yet the 3/16 fittings fit better for some reason. :confused:
 
You need to find the 1/8" NPT adapters that convert to 3/16" brake line.

They come with the Hurst Roll Control. :cool:

Down below at the Prop. valve the factory lines are all 3/16" for the fronts I believe.

Into the powermaster from everything I have read it's a metric fitting, don't know the thread count and size however.

That's why for the up top install we cut the end off the pipe and reflare it with the metric stock nut and use that line to the first line lock port adapter.

The factory line gets the end cut off and a 3/16" nut added to it that goes into the other line lock port adapter.

First of course you need to decide where you are going to locate it and then get the proper parts.

For both installs the line lock will need the 1/8" NPT adapters to 3/16" double flared pipe.

Trust the Biondo instructions for the 1/8" NPT ports and use those fittings, might want to check to see if they have an install kit like the Hurst Roll Control has you can buy, most likely it will have the common adapters you need.
 
Yeah I do happen to have some 1/8 to 3/16 adapter fittings and plan to use them.

I'm curious as to why I've heard people say installing the line lock between the MC and the prop valve is bad? Is it because of keeping too much pressure on the prop valve on only one side for too long?
 
I would assume that's probably the reason, but it is a NHRA rule.

Like I said I've never seen it enforced but haven't raced at Cecil County yet where inspections are said to be more strict. :p

I don't think most know the reason behind the NHRA rule, perhaps they've seen leaks at the prop. valve or something in a case or two... :confused:

I've never heard anyone say why it's bad, just that it's not legal. :confused:
 
Back
Top