Cant bleed brakes right


Oct 2, 2002
I recently installed line lock and in troubleshooting the way it works I replaced the proportioning valve with a new one thinking it went bad.
I bled the brakes and went for a drive. One of the fittings to the solenoid started to leak and the brake light started to come on.

So I fixed the leak and re-bled the brakes and I cannot get the brake light to stop flickering and I can hear a click on the prop valve.
I bled the brakes 4 freaking times and bled the MC in the car on the 4th. Still NO good. WTF.
I have speed bleeders and bled PR,DR,PF,DR. Maybe 10-15 pumps on each with every bleed and held the pin in on the rear brake bleeds.
I am at a loss.
Can someone please help!! This can't be this hard!
What people call a proportioning valve is actually a shuttle valve. It is a brass valve that is centered when the brakes are operating normally. It will move and obstruct the ports on the line with a leak. So if you had a leak at the rear, the valve will move and will cover that respective port. In my experience, the valve will need some assistance getting back to center. What you need to do is remove the warning light switch from the top of it. Look inside the orifice. There is a divot that should be centered in the small hole the pintle on the switch fits into. I have used a small pick to attempt to move it. You can also try inserting a small pick or drill bit into the port at the rear which is for the rear brake line. Try moving the valve forward through the port. Unfortunately if you need to move it to the rear (and cant do so with a pick through the switch hole) you will need to remove the large nut at the front and disassemble the pieces at the front.
Once you have it centered there is a tool that screws into the switch port to hold the valve in the centered position while you bleed the brakes. Combination And Prop Proportioning Valve Bleed-Bleeder Tool For PV2/PV4 | eBay
Can someone help.
Since my first post I have replaced the master cylinder and prop valve. I have a vacuum setup.

I bench blend the MC and power bled all 4 wheels about 1/2 cup fluid each. Then installed quick bleeders and bled my pumping the brakes- about 1/2 cup on each wheel.
Still my prop valve makes a clicking sound and brakes feel somewhat mushy. I have no leaks.

My brakes worked fine before I opened up the system.
What am I doing wrong? I have bled the brakes before many years ago and I have never had issues.
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You might want to get a helper to push the pedal while you work the bleeders. I just went through this myself trying to power bleed.
I hear you but I power bled with the Motive power bleeder and bled it also with speed bleeders. And did this several times after each time it was re-opened.
Is the clicking sound a definite indication that there is still air in the system?
Can air get stuck in the prop valve?
When bleeding do you press the pedal slowly or fast or does it not matter?
Press the pedal down slowly. Hold the pedal down and close the bleeder before letting the pedal up.
I got one of these a while back and finally used it recently...

Stupid thing works AMAZING. I pumped an entire large jug of brake fluid through my '72 Dodge van in about 5 minutes doing a full flush and bleed.
And that was with me learning the tool.