Love/Hate

[hrhoward]

Connector;

That's what I meant. They were wired for it even though that, and others, option wasn't installed. The Twilight Sentinel connector is behind the glove box and is 12 pin. So I'll bet that's it.

Torque Converter;

Pink ones are usually made by Precision Industries. I don't know of any way to find out specs on it except to e-mail Precision (Precision Industries) with the serial number. I think it is on the side between the converter and the flywheel. I have two at home and lucky me, they are both sitting on the work bench.

Scanmaster O2 readings;

Actually sounds about right, my readings have always been all over the place except during WOT best I can remember.

Fuel in Vac lines;

Never had that problem so can't help you there.

Turbo Regal Web Site and Vortex Turbo Buick Performance both have loads of trouble-shooting info.

Good luck

 

[BlackBettie6]

haha those 2 are in my favorites already! thanks alot for your help!
the computer program that general motors techs use say it should be a reading of .750 at best.... i dnno, but i got those pictures! just dnno how the hell to put 'em on here... i can send 'em via e-mail i think...haha

 

[TurboMonte 2]

If Scanmaster (SM) is hooked up properly, it should NOT show any readings (power on) when key is off. Perhaps SM power is hooked into Acc power--not Ign power (Like your radio??)... You really need verify ECM has power to it, even with key off--or, as stated b4--ECM settings will be lost each time you turn key/ign off.

You already indicated your radio power wiring is likely screwed up because you apparently do not have a constant-on +12V supply to it--thus losing memory each time Ign/key is turned off.

Scanmaster (SM) should read a nearly constant 400 or so during initial car start/warm-up--when O2 sensor is in fixed/open-loop control & idle rpm still higher (say 1200-1400 'ish = normal). After a run (no WOT or anything like that) & coming to a stop SM O2's should be around 800-830 'ish--and then gradually drop off after each "run" as O2 sensor cools off...

 

[johnnyttype]

After a run (no WOT or anything like that) & coming to a stop SM O2's should be around 800-830 'ish--and then gradually drop off after each "run" as O2 sensor cools off...

that is only if he has a turbotweak chip, correct? the tt chip allows open loop idle and the car will hover around 800mV when warm. a stock type chip would idle in closed loop and fluctuate above and below 450mv. his sensor sounds fine to me, i would worry more about the fuel in vac. lines!

 

[BlackBettie6]

SM is hooked up correctly im positive because its the only aftermarket thing that I installed. ECM has constant HOT, (same with radio) the ecm will remember fault codes when i restart it

as far as the radio, it seams likely some one had spliced into it with a fuel hotwire system because it (radio) changes when relay is acctive/deacctived.


Update- no sleep haha 85% of the cars wiring has been spliced into im pissed. my eyes hurt from hours of looking at multimeter....coming from a welder lol.... got few rolls of 10ga, 12ga,14ga wires to temporaraly replace any questionable wiring. all relays function properly, finaly removed most of the viper 600 alarm as it is non-functional anyway and has given me problems. you guys know what the relay or breaker looking thing is behind the ECM? or the clear to black connection that is wraped in foam near the glovebox? i hate wiring.

HAHA! i figured out how to upload pictures

1st MAFT ----is somthing missing? it looks bad but the signal is 2.6 at idle

http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=43758&stc=1&d=1204408094

2nd Ecm/ chip

http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=43759&stc=1&d=1204408173

3rd/chip---- no idea what specs are on it i need help!

http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=43759&stc=1&d=1204408173

ill be chasing wires....its better than chasing imports.

 

[BlackBettie6]

i guess i need to practice my uploading skills.....hm.

 

[hrhoward]

I got your pictures. Looks like moisture got into your maf translator. I don't know much about them since I run a maf-less system. You might try fullthrottletech.com on that one. Looks like that chip you have in your hand is set up for 42lb injectors and 93 octane. What are the numbers on your injectors?

I feel your pain on the re-wiring. I had to rip out so many splices, and hacks that used butt-spices and solder-less terminals. I can not stand those things. Went through a lot of solder and heat shrink. I just used my wiring diagrams and put it back to stock before I even put the engine in (I bought a rolling chassis). I took my time, and lots of it, to get it right.

I think the breaker behind the ECM is for the power windows.

The clear/black connector is C437. ECM wiring.

I will look over the pictures you sent me a little closer but I just stopped by the bar to get me a Bloody Mary before I go on the roof to replace some shingles that blew off. I already spent some time torquing the head bolts this morning. I got to go......

 

[BlackBettie6]

Good Info!!!:biggrin:

they are green stripe injectors, which ive read are close to Stock but i could be wrong... thanks again!

 

[turbo39151]

Might want to swap out old chip and have TT burn you one for the 42#'s you're running. It can't hurt...

 

[TurboMonte 2]

Good Info!!!:biggrin:

they are green stripe injectors, which ive read are close to Stock but i could be wrong... thanks again!

Stock injectors are 28#/hr--which is NOT very close to 42#/hr on your chip. As requested earlier, please list numbers (yes, you may need to squint) on your injectors so rated #/hr can be verified--unless you're convinced all "green stripe injectors" are, in fact, rated at the 42#/hr.

 

[alb84]

You do have too many symptoms. If you are getting fuel in your vac line there is a leak in the diaphram of the accufab AFPR. It looks like it leaks only under certain vacume/load/boost conditions also sounds like you have a bad spark plug wire or spark plug. Replace those things, and then see what symptoms are left. Try to focus on one problem at a time. The more the o2 jumps around the better. A active sensor is a good sensor providing timely information to the ECU. Bad shifting can suddenly smooth out when the engine is not bucking and snorting on and off. Don't worry about unused connectors, there are lots of unused connectors to waste your time. Fuel and spark first.
Danny

 

[johnnyttype]

Stock injectors are 28#/hr--which is NOT very close to 42#/hr on your chip. As requested earlier, please list numbers (yes, you may need to squint) on your injectors so rated #/hr can be verified--unless you're convinced all "green stripe injectors" are, in fact, rated at the 42#/hr.

yup, stripes do not mean a whole lot anymore. green stripes can be 30lbs. or 42lbs. and i think the part #'s for those are only off by 1 number!

Lucas (2-hole, Green band) 5207009 30.0 lbs/hr
Lucas (3-hole, Green band) 5208009 42.5 lbs/hr

 

[BlackBettie6]

621031 (magnifing glass),"Part Number 01D030B (Lucas old 5208009, Lucas New 621031", 2 wires each injector, new plug wires which are all seperated.. 11-13k ohms between coil towers, diaphram is good i tested it with 16" of vac and held very steady ... if it was only that simple!

there is an ignition wire running to a realy that im to belive is the high speed fan, a diode stuffed into a connector under the dash, ECT!! lol oh yeah its a daily driver

1st gear seams to overrev then pound into gear, 2nd is not overreving and shifts a little less violent, 3rd feels like... well... smooth, 50-55 (tcc) lugs realy bad (either converter is ballooned or i`m missing third , never tried making it downshift at 55+ , or hit WOT...ever.

this car takes up 98% of my time after work, (Last Night untill 4am), i realy dont want liquid pistons...

well, back back to more fun ...... Love/Hate... yeah i know

 

[BlackBettie6]

i finaly found out what it was! i was gettin overwhelmed by the hellish wiring in the car, i figured that it had to be electrical. NOPE i pulled my belt/IC off and found a CRACK in the harmonic balancer (right on the side of the keyway!!) i also noticed a difference when i ran the proper wires to the hotwired pump(s) .....

i beveled and welded small tacks in the crack then grinded it smooth just so i can get to work and such....

where is the best place to get a replacement? should i buy a useded one off this site? how about electronics? (MAFT, lt1 maf, 42# injectors, FPR)

in the gutting of the interior i found a spark plug....NGK UR5 V-power.. when i got the car it had awful bosch plugs so i got the AC plugs 1 heat range cooler....was that a bad move?

Thanks again to all who helped me out, chip shoping now! :biggrin:

 

[hrhoward]

Hey, good find!!! I guess...
Just take your time and research everything before you start throwing money at it. I read many posts and asked bunches of questions. Lots of searches, comparisons, and tried to make sure that what I did buy I could build on. Not mods that I had to build up to.

 

[turbo39151]

This site is a pretty good place to get used parts. Just make sure you do all of the basics first ( ieL proper plugs, good wires, AFPR, fuel pressure gauge, etc..) and get the car running right.

If you're Chip shopping go here:
TurboTweak Home

Now that your shopping is finished, you'll want to just take your time on all of the basic crap and like hrhoward said... take your time and read and learn about what is available for these cars. Do right he first time and you'll only do it once...

Good Luck