Maf translator question

LSTTYPE

Active Member
I currently have a maf translator with a LT1 maf. If I want to upgrade to an LS1 maf will,the current translator work or is it a different translator for the LS1 altogether?
 
You use the same translator. You take the cover off and theres a dial switch that you adjust for what translator you have. I'll see if I can find a link for the instructions.
 
You can use the same translator, but depending on which LS maf you use you may need an additional interface harness...

FWIW .. you don't gain going LS Maf other then if you got one for nothing .. certainly not worth going out and buying one to update
 
My new turbo needs a 4' maf pipe. I was given a ls1 maf off a 03 firebird. That's why im upgrading from the lt1 maf. Strictly for the larger inlet of the new turbo. Thank you for the input fellas
 
My new turbo needs a 4' maf pipe. I was given a ls1 maf off a 03 firebird. That's why im upgrading from the lt1 maf. Strictly for the larger inlet of the new turbo. Thank you for the input fellas


IF its a 03 LS1 maf then you won't need the harness .. should be a direct snap in to the translator .. if its free might as well use it .. just takes a few clicks on the translator box switches to get it dialed in.

Might want to trial fit the 4" inlet pipe ... depending on whose intercooler / up-pipe you have that could be a tough fit .. may need a plenum spacer to get it to fit ..
 
I did test fit it and your are correct it's a super tight fit. It rubs the bracket holding the radiator hose off the alternator. Will work on that. I went with a 6766 for my Ttype and a 6262 billet for the tta. Both are 4' inlets. I think the regal will get a 4' and I will use a 3.5 pipe for the TTA. Putting the tta on E85 ASAP. I'm dreading pulling the tta tank
 
I did test fit it and your are correct it's a super tight fit. It rubs the bracket holding the radiator hose off the alternator. Will work on that. I went with a 6766 for my Ttype and a 6262 billet for the tta. Both are 4' inlets. I think the regal will get a 4' and I will use a 3.5 pipe for the TTA. Putting the tta on E85 ASAP. I'm dreading pulling the tta tank


Not to derail the topic .. but why dread pulling the tank ? I think people make a really big deal out of this when it's not ..

The mentality to have going into is .. I'm not in a hurry .. take my time

If you have access to a lift .. its super super simple .. just takes a bit of time.
IF its a lower mile car and not rusted to death you will be surprised how easy it is.. if you can day before spray all the bolts with PB blast that you will be removing.

They Key to the entire job is the filler neck ( PAY ATTENTION HERE ) as this makes or breaks just how long it takes you ... on almost everyone I've done you need to bend the filler neck pulling out the tank and putting it back in.. if you ever look at a TTA that has had a pump put in you will almost always see the filler neck is no longer perfectly centered by the gas cap flap.

Drop shock bolts from axle and let axle drop as far is it can , take heat shields off, move exhaust over as far as you can , drop tank and pay attention to filler neck at the top .. pays to have 2 people to wiggle it out.

Not a bad job at all. by the 3-4th time it can be done in 2-3 hours start to finish easily
 
That doesn't sound to bad. Thanks a bunch for the tips!!! I will be using a lift and a buddy. With your input I think it will go allot smoother. Appreciated. Side note...how far do you recomend pushing the factory rearend on these cars?
 
That doesn't sound to bad. Thanks a bunch for the tips!!! I will be using a lift and a buddy. With your input I think it will go allot smoother. Appreciated. Side note...how far do you recomend pushing the factory rearend on these cars?


I've run a few stockers in the 10's ... but to be 100% honest they do not live long at that power level ..
much has to do with how much abuse are you going to give it ... and what kind of tire are you going to run .. whether your using a T-brake and so on

If your talking about 1 track visit per year on a DR then it will last a while..
If your talking 5-6 track visits on a slick .. it has a very short life span running low 11's

To me the GN's and TTA's dialed in to 11.50's is the best option.. reliable.. quick enough .. affordable

E85 conversion, trans , turbo and your there
 
It currently has a new motor, built trans with trans brake, a new turbo (6262 billet precision) and e85 duel delivery system on the way, and a bone stock rear end to handle it all. Lol
 
It currently has a new motor, built trans with trans brake, a new turbo (6262 billet precision) and e85 duel delivery system on the way, and a bone stock rear end to handle it all. Lol

so easy 10 second power... yea .. the diff wont live long .. I did a 9" just because I'm a Ford guy and know my way around that diff.. not to mention a common gear is a 3.25 on that diff and parts are EVERYWHERE for dirt.

you can do a bullet proof 9" for about a G if you shop around .. I got a fully loaded nodular center with a Detroit locker with gear and upgraded pinion bearing for $325 .. then I just swapped the gearset ..

the T-brake and a slick will F'up the car pretty quick
 
I love ford 9' stuff. My brothers cougar runs a 9' with Detroit locker as well as my ole mans F100. When I put a real rearend in this tta! that's what it's getting. I'm sticking with the 323 (325 ford ) gears and a 28' tire. I want this sucker to move on the hwy.
 
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