main studs/ heads studs

[SloGN]

hey guys


I have pulled my engine and i intend to install some ported heads. but my ? is would you guys go back with the stock bolts or go with studs i still have the stock caps on the bottom end.

also what is the torque values for the stock bolts on the mains and the rod caps

I'm also going back with the stock OEM head gaskets othere mods to the engine are in the sig


Thanks guys this is my first buick engine rodeo

 

[FastRegalWE2]

I would put studs on, but if you ever have to pull the pass side head.......
someone else will have to give you the TQ specs....

 

[Blown&Injected]

Main Studs are not just a bolt in and get torqued to the specs that the machine shop used when they did the line bore with the studs that you intend to use.

 

[NC87GN]

1st checklist,
Snug up the loose rods that you removed and 2 of the 4 mains ( #1 and #3) so the rods do not sling and hit the crank journals when you rotate it (insurance). Do not retorque just SNUG..

remove intake and heads.. (mark the heads and rocker shaft assemblies to the side they were removed from) MARK THEM with something permanent..
DO NOT distubed the flat tappet lifters from the bore they are in if your plan on re-using them. Clean the intake valley and put tape over the lifter bore if you plan on rotating the motor over on the stand..

Get all your parts coming (head bolts, gaskets, bearings, BEER, PIZZA!)

Put you brother to work by cleaning the car..

That should keep you busy for a couple days...

Peace OUT...
Johnny BOOST!

 

[gnxtc2]

Since your installing ported heads I would do the following:

-Install main studs with the 2 center billet caps

-Line hone the main saddles (have to with the billet caps)

-Torque plate the cylinders with either the studs or bolts installed to simulate the stress placed the block. I would go with studs due to ported heads.

-This is my opinion here-go with a roller cam due to the different oils made today. I think the oils today can't support a flat tappet cam. Oil companies have removed most of the zinc which helped on engine wear.

-Oiling mods:I enlarge 1,2 and 3 oiling holes in the saddles and in the bearing just like Ruggles did to his motors. Alot of controversy on this mod.

Basically you want to bulletproof the bottom end so you won't have to worry about it.

Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com

 

[SloGN]

walking caps

heys guys

I have got the main caps off the enigine and what i have found is that the cap for the thrust bearing has some metall tranfer on it but just on one side of the cap the other side is smooth.

what causes this condition the other caps look good and is it really worth fixing since the motor is already a 40 block ?????????

or should i just freshen up the block and put it back stock ( turbo I/C injectors ETC) and leave it alone ?????

i'm at a fork in the road

BTW the crank is 10/10 turned to

 

[getchasum]

Pat...a bet there's not many turbo engines out there that don't have a little metal transfer on a cap or two.

What caused it......knock/detonation.
I found it too on my tare down, don't sweat it unless the caps are loose in the registers.

 

[703crewchief]

I would put studs on, but if you ever have to pull the pass side head.......
someone else will have to give you the TQ specs....

Why does everyone still think you have to pull the motor to take heads off of a studded engine? All new ARP head studs come with an internal hex (allen) in the top. And the studs into the block should only be at 5 ft/lbs, so they're actually pretty easy to remove.

 

[FastRegalWE2]

Why does everyone still think you have to pull the motor to take heads off of a studded engine? All new ARP head studs come with an internal hex (allen) in the top. And the studs into the block should only be at 5 ft/lbs, so they're actually pretty easy to remove.

forgive me

 

[NC87GN]

In Pats defense I recommended to pull the motor. We wanted to inspect rod and main bearings before he starts putting the power to it. Also he wanted to detail inside the engine bay and sandblast some parts before assembly. Pat, you did the right thing by pulling it and inspecting things on an engine stand IMO.

Mike Banas
87GN

 

[Blown&Injected]

With engine out, there are lots of things that can be done easier and better - BUT - it is easy to get to the rod and main bearings with the engine in the car.

 

[getchasum]

I Agree w/ Mike

In Pats defense I recommended to pull the motor. We wanted to inspect rod and main bearings before he starts putting the power to it. Also he wanted to detail inside the engine bay and sandblast some parts before assembly. Pat, you did the right thing by pulling it and inspecting things on an engine stand IMO.

Mike Banas
87GN

I know it'd be very easy to pull the studs out and remove a head with the engine in the car. I just wonder the quality of the job if you were trying to reinstall the head if you were using studs with the engine in the car?

 

[703crewchief]

The Quality of the job? With the upper (under the valve cover) head studs out, it is very easy to install the head as well. In fact I would say, that the quality of the job is improved. With the lower head studs in place it is impossible to set the head down on the deck crooked. Therefore, you won't be moving the head around on the dowels scratching the sealing surface. After you have set the head down on the motor apply your thread sealer to the block side of the studs put the studs in just like you would a head bolt and using an allen socket tighten them to 5 ft/lbs. The rest is self explanatory.

 

[NC87GN]

Quality of the job is improved with motor inside the car? Not trying to stage an arguement but to say such nonsense that the quality of putting headgaskets while the motor is inside the car is better is BS. I've did my share of gaskets, with the motor inside and outside, and both are effective. Its a matter of choice and what your most comfortable with. I think most will agree with that statement.