XxDarkSidexX
Banned
- Joined
- Apr 4, 2002
- Messages
- 2,388
manual boost controller valve questions and ideas.....can anyone fill me in on the details please, im curious as a cat now that this has been brought to my attention.
heres wat i run with all the trim i think my cost installed was like 30$(vac lines and connections). Its Graingers model # 4ZM07 http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg...8198&cc item= But after some deeper research on these type of b/c'ers i have some questions.
1.) Each vavle DOES HAVE a Maximum Temperature, usally around 150 or 175 degrees fahrenheit. Doesn't it get this hot inside the engine bay and could it get hot enough to make the vavle not perform to spec if its mounted inside the engine bay?
2.) The grainger vavle says it can handle psi between 5-125psi, and other grainger units can handle upto 300psi. Where as this one in the summet cat. http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...t=TNT-10402-25 while it looks like mine only states to hold 1-25psi? and many other webistes offering mannual boost controllers dont even give any specs about their unit.
3.) I also noticed that each valve in the Grainger site flows a different amount of CFM flow, ranging from 10 to 500 CFM do these CFM numbers play into the quality and performance of a manual boost controller?
4.) Does it matter wat size the valve inlet and outlet are, mine is the 1/8 inch size but i see that they offer a 1/4 inch, 1/2 inch, 3/4 inch and 1 inch!!! whats the difference with those? and can boost readings be affected by this difference in size?
5.) Could any of these variables be the reason some people, not all people, have problems with their boost controller boost leaking or boost creeping? And could these variables also be the reason some manual boost controllers dont work as well mounted INSIDE the car as compared to inside the engine bay?
6.) Last but not least, does the length of the Vacum line for the boost controller matter in performance? I have heard both no and yes answers to this question. Fill me in!
Anyone got the RIGHT information for me? Anyone do any R&D on this before?
Basically, I DONT UNDERSTAND THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THESE UNITS in terms of performance affecting varibles. I have no idea if the 15$ unit works(for our cars of course) just as good as the 100$ units. Here is a list of different controllers, 1st being the cheapest and flowing the least, and 6th being the most expensive and flowing the most.
1-(this is the one i run) http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/itemDetailsRender.shtml?xi=xi&ItemId=1611748198&ccitem=
2-http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/itemDetailsRender.shtml?xi=xi&ItemId=1611725384&ccitem=
3-http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/itemDetailsRender.shtml?xi=xi&ItemId=1611777837&ccitem=
4-http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/itemDetailsRender.shtml?xi=xi&ItemId=1611784588&ccitem=
5-http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/itemDetailsRender.shtml?xi=xi&ItemId=1611784587&ccitem=
6-http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/itemDetailsRender.shtml?xi=xi&ItemId=1611777838&ccitem= I would sell mine (#1 link) and buy this one, if it works better and has less chances of failure on high end applications and performance, 500HP+ GN as an example or 11seconds & faster GN's.
Im using the Grainger sites, but there are dozens of AIR REGULATOR sites with units available. Just google AIR REGULATOR you will find plunty. :wink:
do the ANY of the spec differences affect in anyway possible boost controlling performance??? Thanks for your time and patients for i can't sit and be satisfied anymore without the FACTS! Plunty of variables here that COULD affect performance, but I personally have no experience with this so this is why im asking. :biggrin:
heres wat i run with all the trim i think my cost installed was like 30$(vac lines and connections). Its Graingers model # 4ZM07 http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg...8198&cc item= But after some deeper research on these type of b/c'ers i have some questions.
1.) Each vavle DOES HAVE a Maximum Temperature, usally around 150 or 175 degrees fahrenheit. Doesn't it get this hot inside the engine bay and could it get hot enough to make the vavle not perform to spec if its mounted inside the engine bay?
2.) The grainger vavle says it can handle psi between 5-125psi, and other grainger units can handle upto 300psi. Where as this one in the summet cat. http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...t=TNT-10402-25 while it looks like mine only states to hold 1-25psi? and many other webistes offering mannual boost controllers dont even give any specs about their unit.
3.) I also noticed that each valve in the Grainger site flows a different amount of CFM flow, ranging from 10 to 500 CFM do these CFM numbers play into the quality and performance of a manual boost controller?
4.) Does it matter wat size the valve inlet and outlet are, mine is the 1/8 inch size but i see that they offer a 1/4 inch, 1/2 inch, 3/4 inch and 1 inch!!! whats the difference with those? and can boost readings be affected by this difference in size?
5.) Could any of these variables be the reason some people, not all people, have problems with their boost controller boost leaking or boost creeping? And could these variables also be the reason some manual boost controllers dont work as well mounted INSIDE the car as compared to inside the engine bay?
6.) Last but not least, does the length of the Vacum line for the boost controller matter in performance? I have heard both no and yes answers to this question. Fill me in!
Anyone got the RIGHT information for me? Anyone do any R&D on this before?
Basically, I DONT UNDERSTAND THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THESE UNITS in terms of performance affecting varibles. I have no idea if the 15$ unit works(for our cars of course) just as good as the 100$ units. Here is a list of different controllers, 1st being the cheapest and flowing the least, and 6th being the most expensive and flowing the most.
1-(this is the one i run) http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/itemDetailsRender.shtml?xi=xi&ItemId=1611748198&ccitem=
2-http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/itemDetailsRender.shtml?xi=xi&ItemId=1611725384&ccitem=
3-http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/itemDetailsRender.shtml?xi=xi&ItemId=1611777837&ccitem=
4-http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/itemDetailsRender.shtml?xi=xi&ItemId=1611784588&ccitem=
5-http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/itemDetailsRender.shtml?xi=xi&ItemId=1611784587&ccitem=
6-http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/itemDetailsRender.shtml?xi=xi&ItemId=1611777838&ccitem= I would sell mine (#1 link) and buy this one, if it works better and has less chances of failure on high end applications and performance, 500HP+ GN as an example or 11seconds & faster GN's.
Im using the Grainger sites, but there are dozens of AIR REGULATOR sites with units available. Just google AIR REGULATOR you will find plunty. :wink:
do the ANY of the spec differences affect in anyway possible boost controlling performance??? Thanks for your time and patients for i can't sit and be satisfied anymore without the FACTS! Plunty of variables here that COULD affect performance, but I personally have no experience with this so this is why im asking. :biggrin: