Mousetrap

Razor, what are you using for the low alchy level switch?
Is that the nozzle shown in photo with bolt in it? What type nozzle. Interesteing pics. Thanks

paul
 
The low alky sender is a GM part. The bolt was a temporary deal while we had the braided hose shortened a couple inches. I havent had a chance to put up the final pixs..that will happen in a day or so.

The nozzle is a Mcmaster Carr M15. Very simple install. Neat thing is no jetting to change..just change the knob setting :)
 
Razor, I would like to ask you a few more questions:
Is the pump mounted on the pass or driver side? I ask cause I mounted mine on pass side off the bumper support bracket. I was concerned about the length of the suction line if I use the overflow for the tank, seems like it might be too much loss. Any recommendation?

Which nozzle are you using?

How is it so easy to mount the McMaster nozzle? I thought they required some machining to get them to work.

Is that low level switch adjustable? or does it only work for that depth reservoir?

Sorry for all the questions but I am trying to figure out how I want all this.

paul
 
The pump is on the pass side rite behind where the battery goes. Pretty short line, the only thing I did was redrill two of the mounting holes on the shureflow bracket becuase on that spot the metal is not wide enough.

The low alky sensor is a GM part. I have the number at home, drop me an email and I'll get it to you. You will need a 1 1/8 hole saw to cut the hole into the overflow tank.

The nozzle mounts from the inside of the pipe using a small 3/8 stainless steel washer as a spacer. The adapter is 1/8 pipe 90 degree available at home depot less than a dollar. It couples the hose to the nozzle. The reason some machined them was to play with different nozzles without removing the up-pipe..no need to do this when you can vary the pressure to the nozzle using a controller. It is an M15 nozzle fwiw.

I'm selling these controllers for $139.00 including all the wiring,loom,connectors, etc needed to install. I mean everything :) No hobbs switches,relays,figuring it out. run the wires and connect. Extremely clean install and easy. If you want I can also get you the braided lines fabbed as well, I have the sheets when these were made, so duplicating will be no problem.

The $139.00 does not include the low alky sender,pump,reservoir,nozzle, or braided lines. Just the electronics. I can get you the nozzles, pump, lines whatever. I just markup 20 percent over cost on those items. Hopefully this will make it easy.

Last of the pixs will go up tonite, total cost as pictured is roughly under 300 including the controller. Been using this kit now for a couple weeks no problems and easy to adjust.

HTH

Julio
 
The progressive controller is something completely different becuase of the additional adjusting it requires to get it dialed in. And electronics wise has twice as many components as this one does. Plus needs extra stuff like a 3 Bar MAP, hookup to the brake switch input, over boost warning, which really is more curtailed to someone wanting "the next step". I havent set a price on that piece yet. Havent finalized costs. Its operational and in my car :)..but waiting on some cosmetics to start production.

This controller is the missing link between the smc kit and the DIY. The nice thing about the SMC kit is the install, its a couple wires and a vacuum line for boost ref. On my controller I use the GN 2 bar map sensor and tap into the green wire.This gives my box its boost reference. The shureflow pump will outflow the smc pump by a huge margin. Not that a lot of alcohol is needed, but the potential is there.

My advantages are size of controller, its hidden, and the components used in the DIY kits are pretty much bullet proof. Parts replacement is easy and inexpensive.
 
well let me know when you got a progressive controller for the SMC kits ready and how much cuz im tired of not getting a good O2 number till mid 3rd gear.
 
Mid 3rd gear sounds like you either need more alky, less timing, less boost or a combination of all above. The progressive takes care of the sluggishness thats experienced when a typical alky setup fires. and lets you run more alcohol than before becuase of the way it gives more as your boost increases...but alcohol has its limits. The controller I made will take it to that limit.

Tell Bob to burn you a lesser timing chip and try that. If its that you need more alky, possibly going to a dual nozzle may help your problem. But until your car is at the 12.00 at 113 range at the track..look elsewhere for the solution. The single nozzle kit will get you into 12.0 land..once there start asking more questions. That should be about 380-400 RWHP. Assuming the SMC pump is putting out proper pressure/flow.

Now if you have a lot of transitional knock/initial surging/pig rich..and want that taken care off..that I can help.
 
My GN does not have a 2 bar map, but I did install a 3 bar for the boost sensing harness, can this be used in conjunction? I may be interested.

My Shurflow pump is mounted on the driver side, is that a problem if I want to use the overflow reservoir?

Does that GM level switch only fit the overflow tank?

paul
 
Originally posted by Razor
Mid 3rd gear sounds like you either need more alky, less timing, less boost or a combination of all above. The progressive takes care of the sluggishness thats experienced when a typical alky setup fires. and lets you run more alcohol than before becuase of the way it gives more as your boost increases...but alcohol has its limits. The controller I made will take it to that limit.

Tell Bob to burn you a lesser timing chip and try that. If its that you need more alky, possibly going to a dual nozzle may help your problem. But until your car is at the 12.00 at 113 range at the track..look elsewhere for the solution. The single nozzle kit will get you into 12.0 land..once there start asking more questions. That should be about 380-400 RWHP. Assuming the SMC pump is putting out proper pressure/flow.

Now if you have a lot of transitional knock/initial surging/pig rich..and want that taken care off..that I can help.
Click to expand...

thats the problem, see i can floor it in 1st and it will get rich then like as the gears go up with the speed it gets leaner. like tonite i had 812 02s at 95 mph. lil bit rich. you stated once that 760s thru the traps in high 3rd gear is good. SM stores the lowest 02 of the run also so i muct be real rich the whole run. most other runs right into 3rd are like 830 02s. i dont really have a bog or surge when the alky comes on but like if im rolling and floor it, it will downshift and get up to boost so fast i dont think the alky has time to react and it gets lotsa (8*) transitional KR but if i lean into it it gets little/no KR. this may be attributed to tire spin/noise b/c my friends saw me punch it at 55 mph and said it just spun. i couldnt hear, dump was open. im having Bob do me a 19* timing chip instead of the 21* chip thats in now. SMC pump was checked and is putting out good pressure. volts are like 13-13.5 at guage. my i/c scoop is busted and that needs to be fixed cuz i know at speed im getting crap flow to the i/c. i dont think ill go dual nozzle yet until i know for sure what i ruun. i only know what i may run from running others on the street. you gonna be at TR trackday in August? if so i can probably be there and if i can borrow the slicks ill pay ya the $20 bux or whatever you wanted for them. of course we'll have to switch back and forth using them but thats what im there for;)
 
Originally posted by PaulRV6
My GN does not have a 2 bar map, but I did install a 3 bar for the boost sensing harness, can this be used in conjunction? I may be interested.

My Shurflow pump is mounted on the driver side, is that a problem if I want to use the overflow reservoir?

Does that GM level switch only fit the overflow tank?

paul
Click to expand...

Pual no problem with the three bar. This controller will work from 2.5 volts to 5 volts. The 3 bar range is 1.7volts to 5volts . 3.4 is 15 psi approx, so 2.5 is about 7-8 PSI. I can make it turn on lower if needed. I have my progressive set at 8 PSI turnon.

Wanna do a progressive :)

As far as using the overflow reservoir, the shorter all your lines the better you will be. It is important that the pump be always primed. Same with fuel pumps..they should be mounted under the tank level to assure proper flow. Pump relocation is no biggie, just 4 screws and a couple wires.

The low sender pictured is a GM part that is of a specific length. It pretty much hits the bottom of the overflow tank. It can be used on any tank pretty much, only thing is the height of the tank is important to get the sensor to give you the signal when its low. If you use another tank for alky supply, you'll have to fab one up. The junkyard is a great place for these type of senders. Look at GM vehicle washer tanks, the higher end cars come with senders, all different lengths. Depending on vehicles. The sender in my TTA tank came off of an 91 Cadillac. This sender I used on my buddies GN dunno what car its from. Mark Haufman was nice enough to drop me the part number.

Cory, look into your chip..there is a lot of tuning to be done.
 
I ran across two lengths for those float gauges. Longer one is a lot more common. The short one, which will work without modification in a TR overflow tank, is out of an 89 Eldorado windshield washer reservoir. If you can't find one of them, the longer one can be found in 86 and 87 front drive electra, park av, delta 88s, bonnes', etc. ;)
 
Razor, I will let you know if I am interested in the "Progressive". Got to get my system / parts in place first on what all I am using. Thanks

paul
 
Razor, I am interested in this setup but I am quite electronically challenged. does your controller do away with the hobbs switch that I am using to turn on my alky?? Does this controller allow me to change turn on via a knob instead of a hobbs switch??? Is the pump speed varied through changing the voltage to the pump?? do you have to use the shurflo pump??? Do you have controllers made and ready to ship???
Thanks

Zak
 
ZAK,
If you can wire a simple car stereo, you can do this. As far as your questions.. yes to all of them :)

You dont have to use a shureflow pump, can use any pump actually as long as its current isnt greater than 15 amps. I dont know of any pump that will require 15 amps if that answers that question..if a mistake occurrs, it has a built in fuse.

If you do use a shureflow pump, you can pretty much crank the pressure up on it 6 turns(150 psi) and let the "box" work its majic. You probably wont ever need to run the control wide open.

Lastly..make sure the MAP sensor is still in the vehicle. Its located on the passenger fender rite above the front tire. There is a black vacuum line going to it and has three connections. You'll be using the green colored wire.

Anything else..ask :D
 
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