You can type here any text you want

Need Help might be a crank sensor issue (cam sensor)?

Welcome!

By registering with us, you'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.

SignUp Now!

jretrodude

Member
Joined
Dec 30, 2002
Messages
881
My car died today backing out of the garage? Started it right back up? Runs ok a little chuggy when you first give it gas but otherwise it cruises nice and boosts good. Came to a light and it just shut down? I had to crank it over about 6 to 7 times and gave it some gas and it started but had a hard time getting it started again:confused: :confused: Car has new motor, turbo, MAF, Coilpack,Module, new plugs and wires. The only thing I haven't replaced bascially on the car is the crankshaft sensor or the cap for it? Could this be a problem where it intermitally shuts off and feels sorta chuggy? And hard to start? Let me know a.s.a.p
 
what kind of chip do u have on ur car? i had a problem with stalling before with the original chip and it went away after i got a turbo tweak chip. dont know if thats what fixed it but maybe. one thing u could check is the MAF, tap on it and see if it bogs the engine. ive had one MAF that made the car idle crappy and low, another that fell on its face when load was put on the engine, a miscalibrated one(just unplugged sensor when car was running and idle went back to near perfect). if the cam sensor is bad the car should be able to limp home after the sensor goes bad but it will not start back up. could be crank sensor aswell, next time it stalls watch ur tach when u crank the car again and see if it is receiving a RPM signal, generally means crank sensor is working properly.

its so hard to diagnose these stalling issues because it happens without warning and they are intermittent! good luck!
 
after reading the post again, the first few lines described exactly what my car was doing. what kind of MAF do u have? when my last MAF problem occured the car would idle up and down alot when cold and stall coming out of my garage. when i gave it gas so it wouldnt stall the car was very unresponsive and chugged. i just unplugged the MAF when it was cold and the car went back to idling good. does this sound like ur problem? if u have a scanmaster checkout ur MAF reading at idle should be 4 or 5 grams per second. hope this helps
 
My experience with crank sensors is when a water pump goes out, the water dripping down can cause the crank sensor to go out, and when my water pump went out, the crank sensor went out a week or 2 later, and when the crank sensor went, it would not start nor run.
My experience with the TPS going out is that the car will start with more pedal, will not idle other that above about 1200 rpm, but will run of at speed.
And I have heard similiar as above as stated on the MAF. HTH
 
MAF is only about 5 months old

Maf is only about 5 months old at idle it's about a 5 and it is a ACDelco MAF that I purchased from NOS4GN. I have had to tighten the down the 2 screws on the cap from time to time when it would not start? New 340 fuel pump as well and my fuel pressure at idle is like 40 to 43. I did not have any rpm lights on other than 0 when I tried starting it the 6 or 7 times really scratching my head on this one and I think I'll just replace the cam sensor since I haven't changed it yet and since I don't believe you can get an error from turbolink on it?:confused:
 
If you are in an area where there are other turbo Buicks, I would do my best to hook up with someone else and switch maf's before buying anything else. I know that Glen at NOS4GN and NOS4GN are top-shelf vendors, but anybody can get a bad maf. Plug wires, ignition module, & coil pack are in good shape? Those are other items that can be switched easily from car to car to check before buying anything. My car ran very similiar a while back and it turned out to be the spark plug wires. I was still running the originals. HTH
 
Shutting down when hot and no rpms while cranking over point to a bad ignition module.Maybe your new module is a dud? :confused:
 
Make sure your crank sensor is not rubbing. Make sure your cam sesnor bolt/washer that holds down the shaft is not loose. If you have to tighten the cap from time to time...there is a problem there.

My cranks sensor was rubbing causing me 2 months worth of troubleshooting and alot $$ on parts that I didnt need.:frown:

Live and learn....
 
Make sure your crank sensor is not rubbing. Make sure your cam sesnor bolt/washer that holds down the shaft is not loose. If you have to tighten the cap from time to time...there is a problem there.

My cranks sensor was rubbing causing me 2 months worth of troubleshooting and alot $$ on parts that I didnt need.:frown:

Live and learn....

How bout it? Seems like alot of that going around lately.

Got to remember these cars just came up to being 20 yrs old. The internal self destruct mechanism that GM has in all their products has come to term. :biggrin: Hitting the cam and crank sensors hard.

jretrodude :) You know what to do.
 
Self destruct ??? Im broke from troubleshooitng and changing parts....

I need a "break" from changing stuff....no pun intended.:D
 
so if the crank sensor is rubbing what would that cause the engine to run like..... i had to replace mine after if quit, now it stumbles during light acceleration....
 
Back
Top