Need help removing upper body bushings

[GNRick]

I read through the instructions at gnttype.org and it is a little confusing. They mention jacking up the rear at the gas tank. Do they mean you put a 2x4 on the jack and the other end on the lip of the tank and force it up? I guess this would allow for removal of #6 and 7 bushing. Then they talk about making a "T" out of two 2X4's, but in the instructions they mention a 4X4. I can't tell for sure how to use the "T". Also, they say to remove all bolts at once. I would think just loosening them on one side while removing them on the other side would be a better way to go, to prevent the body from moving too far off of the frame. One more question- how do you access the nuts that the screws go into so you can spray them with penetrant? Are they under the carpet or along the sill plate? Any help would be appreciated.

Bushing Replacement Procedure

 

[mikestertwo]

I think they want you to remove the gas tank and jack the body up from the floor of the trunk. The nuts are captured in the body. You don't have to put a wrench on them, just remove the bolts.

 

[GNRick]

I think they want you to remove the gas tank and jack the body up from the floor of the trunk. The nuts are captured in the body. You don't have to put a wrench on them, just remove the bolts.

I know sometimes the nuts come loose. Then they just spin with the screw.

 

[V8Assassin]

It's a pretty simple process, once you have all the body bolts out, use the 2x4s to run under the body. It may be better to have a 1x8 or 10 to put against the underside body panels to create more surface contact. At any rate you will need the 2x4s under either to give more height when jacking. Once that is set up, use two floor jacks on either side of the car up until you can slide the 4x4s between the body and the frame rail. Allow the body to rest on the 4x4s and move the jacks out. At this point the body and frame are seperated and you can replace all the body bushings, if more clearance is needed, take the 2x4s and put them under the 4x4s that are hanging out and jack them up to the height you need.

If you are still confused, send me a pm and I will get you my number.

 

[GNRick]

Thanks V8Assassin,

I'll run this by a friend of mine who is pretty good with stuff like this. If he has any questions I'll PM you. I just ordered the bushings so the order won't go in until tomorrow. Hopefully I'll get them by the end of next week. If any body has any more tips for me feel free to chime in. Are the bolts in stainless steel available from Ace or True Value....or do I have to get them through Kirban?

 

[pacecarta]

don't need to remove the tank but you do need to remove the rear bumper
don't jack at the trunk floor theres a lip by the tank straps thats pretty strong you can put a 4x4 across

take the cap off the tank or youll snag the rear fillers

don't foget about the lockout rod on the strg column , disconnect the rod from the pivot arm at the nut under the car (1/2 or 13mm wrench) , you'll need to loosen it later anyway to readjust the arm because you'll more than likely raise the body a little with the new bushings

i usually change the #2s out from the front side of the frame rail by pulling the fender liner out a little at the bottom (take out a couple small bolts)

as you lower the rear back down check the fit against the frame by the #4 bushings , try to get it even before you take the jack away , also good idea to check the tire to lip alignment with a straight edge

i leave the front bushings at rad for last after all the others uppers are in place and the body is back down , you'll need to drive the bolts out as they have a clip between the body and the bushing from the factory , jack the rad support a little and they will slide out .. and replace any washers that were there , they were used as shims

don't forget to grease the bolts good before they go back

 

[V8Assassin]

this is what mine looked like off the frame, the close up should give you an idea of what I am talking about. I don't make much sense anymore, started after all the por15 I got on me! :biggrin:

 

[GNRick]

Thanks for all the great info! Anyone else try this?

 

[Chuck Leeper]

1.Where does leaving out the lower bushings affect the "mushy ride" effect you are looking for???
2. Why do a partial replacement?? If some of the bushings are toast, why would others not be in need of replacement, also??

 

[V8Assassin]

1.Where does leaving out the lower bushings affect the "mushy ride" effect you are looking for???
2. Why do a partial replacement?? If some of the bushings are toast, why would others not be in need of replacement, also??

I agree with number 2! If you are going to this amount of trouble, go ahead and replace all of them. Also, check those back mounts for rot, it can happen relatively easily because of the frame design.

 

[GNRick]

1.Where does leaving out the lower bushings affect the "mushy ride" effect you are looking for???
2. Why do a partial replacement?? If some of the bushings are toast, why would others not be in need of replacement, also??

I ordered all of the upper bushings except for #1. they looked ok. As for the ride quality, there was a thread on this where Eric Fisher said some G bodies got the lower ones and some didn't. I think he said Cutlases and Grand Prix's got them, but he figured that GM wanted Buicks to ride a little softer so they left them out on the Buicks. FWIW, my car (and most others apparently) is missing the 3,4 and 7 lowers. Of course only the GNX got #5.

I agree with number 2! If you are going to this amount of trouble, go ahead and replace all of them. Also, check those back mounts for rot, it can happen relatively easily because of the frame design.

By mounts, do you mean the area that the bushings sit on? I went to a body shop today to get the shop owner's thoughts on this. I wanted to know how he would go about replacing them. He said he has a hydraulic scissor type of machine that prys the body off of the frame, allowing for easy removal of the bushings. He was more concerned with the nut (holding the screws) breaking free and spinning freely. He advised that it would be better to loosen the bolts with his air powered rachet instead of hand tools. What do you guys think? Should I let him see if he can loosen the bolts but then I should do the rest of the job? Actually, I know what would happen.....I would tell him "go ahead Dave and finish the job". Three hours later I would get the bill

 

[87BuickMan]

I just changed my body mounts 2 months ago, and you don't need to remove the gas tank, nor do you need to remove the rear bumper(but it will make it easier). NOTE-- DO NOT remove all the body bushing bolts, this will make it much harder. Pick a side to start on and remove the bolts from that side (I started on the pass side) then loosen up all the bolts on the other side, but don't take them all the way out. All bushings should be on the car except for the GNX bushing (which only sits between the frame and body, no bolts hold it in) Defently replace all bushings, upper and lower, don't half ass it.
As far as breaking them loose with air tools I wouldn't, with hand tools you can "feel" whats going to happen (if the cage is going to break or not) with air tools it all or nothing. On a side note if your front end has ever been off (for a engine change or whatever) you will need to reshim the nose to get the correct gapping back. This is just my opinion, thats how i did it, and it went fine, your miliage may veri.

 

[V8Assassin]

Hand Tools are the way I did it. Managed to only break on bolt and the car was rusty to say the least. That's what I was talking about on the mounts. In the rear of the frame there is a flat spot where the bushings rest, these can rot and there is nothing actually touching there. Not a hard fix, G-body sells the washer kit, any decent welder can put them in.