Need help...
- Thread starter Robes87GN
- Start date
try 42PSI line off for fuel press, thats what I have mine set to . See if that fixs the blm problem,.....
(2. Tranny doesn't like to shift until at least 3000. I have to get up to 65 and let off to have it shift. I did get blue clutches, stage 2 shift kit, and a kevlar band. Also I had a 2025 stock replacement stall put in. (TV Cable?))
Jimmy trans in mundelien illinois, fixed the exact same problem on my cars tranny. I got a full rebuild forgot the exact problem give him a call and ask him , he's good.
847-949-7507
(2. Tranny doesn't like to shift until at least 3000. I have to get up to 65 and let off to have it shift. I did get blue clutches, stage 2 shift kit, and a kevlar band. Also I had a 2025 stock replacement stall put in. (TV Cable?))
Jimmy trans in mundelien illinois, fixed the exact same problem on my cars tranny. I got a full rebuild forgot the exact problem give him a call and ask him , he's good.
847-949-7507
Yes
, I set mine to 42PSI line off. But thats what my chip builder recommended....Knock reading & 02 readings, my 02 readings went from 100-900 like crazy never steady, turned out to be 2 things , 1. I stripped my plenum to manifold bolt. 2nd my crossover to driver side header was leaking.....This might not be the case on your vehicle but check to see if you can torque the plenum bolts to 23#'s. And check for exhaust - vacuum leaks.
Currently my 02 are pretty steady at Idle after warmup. pre the above problems it was not.
my collector clamp was out of round , the crossover never seated with the header correctly. I think it was my fault because I overtighten it to begin with.
I have poston headers with the poston crossover, not really happy with them but fit a lot better than the ATR's
I have poston headers with the poston crossover, not really happy with them but fit a lot better than the ATR's
Check your plugs they might be fouled from running to rich.
did you have a stock MAF? did you try the tap test?
any malf codes?
The ECM plug is behind the battery single wire plug disconnect for 20 seconds and plug back in, should reset the ecm, did this about 3x today.........
What injectors & fuel pump do you have, is it hotwired?
it stutters of the line at WOT or just all the time?
did you have a stock MAF? did you try the tap test?
any malf codes?
The ECM plug is behind the battery single wire plug disconnect for 20 seconds and plug back in, should reset the ecm, did this about 3x today.........
What injectors & fuel pump do you have, is it hotwired?
it stutters of the line at WOT or just all the time?
Tap test? Aftermarket MAF. I have 36lb injectors with the poston fuel pump, which is all hotwired. I havent had it over 12psi. I have heard the car pop twice while under boost, but once it was 10psi and once it was 8psi. I haven't gone over half throttle on it yet. It stutters at the low end of a gear.
Did that, didn't do anything.
All right, here is what I have for you all again.
1. Replaced O2 sensor, my O2 milivolts are still allllll over the board. (Bosch replacement)
2. Still stutters at low rpm. FP is at 40 line off. It doesnt do it when get on it a little. Runs best with boost (like all cars, eh?).
3. Boost problems. When I boost and hit about 40mph it seems to make a snapping sound. It sounds like air moving though, not mechanical. My boost is still fluttering at anything over 5psi. We tightened the hell out of every hose clamp just to make sure it wasnt air leaking out there.
4. Knock. Knocking up to 4 degrees (at 10psi), but I think it is false knock, because I have a heat shield that rattles, and my caspers knock sensor never moves. It throws some weird numbers too, like 34, 17, 15, 20, just at idle. Freaks me out.
5. I am going to call a speed shop in Kankakee, IL to get it in tune before I actually go run on the dyno. No one around here, including me has the knowledge on how to tune it, so I have to pay for it. If someone is free this weekend, I will pay for gas and whatnot. Just give me a call and let me know. 1-815-383-7784. If you don't get me, just leave a voice mail.
Oh, btw, thanks to everyone who has helped me in my venture to get my baby running. I have a lot of drama going on right now, and this keeps me busy.
All right, here is what I have for you all again.
1. Replaced O2 sensor, my O2 milivolts are still allllll over the board. (Bosch replacement)
2. Still stutters at low rpm. FP is at 40 line off. It doesnt do it when get on it a little. Runs best with boost (like all cars, eh?
).3. Boost problems. When I boost and hit about 40mph it seems to make a snapping sound. It sounds like air moving though, not mechanical. My boost is still fluttering at anything over 5psi. We tightened the hell out of every hose clamp just to make sure it wasnt air leaking out there.
4. Knock. Knocking up to 4 degrees (at 10psi), but I think it is false knock, because I have a heat shield that rattles, and my caspers knock sensor never moves. It throws some weird numbers too, like 34, 17, 15, 20, just at idle. Freaks me out.
5. I am going to call a speed shop in Kankakee, IL to get it in tune before I actually go run on the dyno. No one around here, including me has the knowledge on how to tune it, so I have to pay for it. If someone is free this weekend, I will pay for gas and whatnot. Just give me a call and let me know. 1-815-383-7784. If you don't get me, just leave a voice mail.
Oh, btw, thanks to everyone who has helped me in my venture to get my baby running. I have a lot of drama going on right now, and this keeps me busy.
The Caspers knock sensor may be interfering with the scanmaster. I would disconnect it and see what happens. I had trouble with a caspers on my Typhoon. They don't make a scanmaster for the Typhoons. I had to put an isolater in line because the Caspers set my engine trouble light off and coded. It could be causing those crazy numbers on your scanmaster. Besides why do you want two knock sensors anyway?
1. O2 sensor is supposed to do that, from what I am told. Problem solved.
2. Need to readjust FP down another 1-2psi and should be just fine, from what I am told.
3. Air sound, still no clue. Boost flutter is just boost spike, from my exhaust porting and power plate. Taking it to a shop in springfield, IL to have them tune and dyno.
4. Knock I have narrowed down to a loose heat shield on the drivers side header. I think that should be what it is.
Other than this, the car runs great. Anyone know the scanmaster numbers you should run?
2. Need to readjust FP down another 1-2psi and should be just fine, from what I am told.
3. Air sound, still no clue. Boost flutter is just boost spike, from my exhaust porting and power plate. Taking it to a shop in springfield, IL to have them tune and dyno.
4. Knock I have narrowed down to a loose heat shield on the drivers side header. I think that should be what it is.
Other than this, the car runs great. Anyone know the scanmaster numbers you should run?
