need help

[TURBOKID]

I need help, I have got a miss in my car now that I can not find and want to put it out there to see if anyone else has come across this before.

the car runs normal until 7650 rpms and then it starts to break up, as if it is on a rev. limit. the car has stock coil module with the dis4 box, stock cam and crank sensors, felpro 160 lbs. I have leak the motor and it is ok about 3% on all but the two center cly. and they are 8%. I have changed valve springs, plug wires, coil and module, change to the new dis4 high output box, change the harness for the dis4, changed my rpm box for the shifter that has a 7800 chip in it and I have to change to a 7600rpm chip after about two runs because then the car will not pull to 7800 in first gear. the first runs off the trailer the car will go to 7800 in first.

On the log it show good voltage while this is happing about 14.3, nothing funny on the corr.% or the A/F, boost, nothing looks funny but the rpm line. I have change or put new ends on all the power and ground wires and solder all the new ends on. Have good grounds straight from the battery, motor and frame.

The high end rev limit is set at 8500rpms and I moved it up to 9000rpms this weekend at a race to see if it changed anything but it didn't. I even by passed the msd box and put just the stock stuff on the car but it would not run with out that extra juice.
Could there be something in the felpro box bad that could do this? the settings in it are higher than when it starts to miss.

Has anyone had this msd setup and changed to a dist. set up? What all do you have to change and do to the harness to get it to work. I need this damn car fixed so I can win the points down here.

Thanks for any help anyone can give
Richie

 

[JayC]

You need to:

A) Send the box back to FAST and have it converted to work with a distributor.

B) Get a universal V8 wiring harness from PTE or your FAST dealer and repin the injector harness.

C) Get a MSD 7 or whatever you want to use.

D) Get a crank trigger and trigger wheel for the crank

E) Get a two or three step box

F) Never worry about WOT misses again

In 2 years of racing Scott's car with the distributor, Ive never once heard it miss at WOT.

The wiring is pretty straight forward. You can for the most part pull out the stock harness if you haven't already.

You have my number. If you have any questions, give me a call.

 

[opeltwinturbo]

Richie: I have to second going to a distributor. I have also run nothing but a distributor and have never had a high speed miss. I run FAST, 7AL2 box, MSD distributor, crank trigger, two step, and additional rpm switch for shiftnoid. WOT at top end is 7,600 with shifts at 7,500. Low side on the 2 step is 5,400 for the launch which equates to 18# boost. As Jay will attest, you will need to do some work on the distributor (wack off 5 of 6 pickups), phase the distributor to 50 degrees, then set timing to 24-26 advance. The MSD pickup worked well with minimal mods.

Jim Rock (Purple GN) had similar problems and spent nearly a year tracking down the miss. He gave up and recently installed a distributor setup. He downloaded my program for his FAST setup and ran 8.90's. If Jay is not available, don't hesitate to give Bob Martin, BOBS AUTO SERVICE (my mechanic and good friend) 740-349-7555 a call. He has set up several on my motors and helped Jim Rock with his setup.

Good luck. We're here to help.

 

[TURBOKID]

thinks guys I have three weeks to get this done, I have been talking about doing it but was going to wait until the winter to change over. what kind of times do you run in the 1/8 with the opel at what mph, and what boost? I can not get mine to go over 27-28 lbs. and I always here guys running like 35 with these motors. That the next thing I want to fix.

 

[EightSecV6]

I never had a missing or popping problem with the stock ignition, never had an MSD either, ran the car for several years like that and it was fast (8.20's 3 years ago). I switched over to an MSD distributor, and crank trigger and have had nothing but missing and popping ever since. I am using a digital box, my ECU is back at FAST for the third time in a year ,first to change over to distributor, then to repair it because the RPMs read 2000 below what the tach and Racepack said after I got it back, now to fix the timing retard in the N2O table and change the "coil on" time as MSD said this is what is causing my problems after testing the box,supposedly only happens on the digital boxes,I planned on racing today but didnt get my ECU back, hopefully by Wed. night T&T ..... I hate cars.

Richie, what is your intake seat pressure? Running the boost up will cause the intake valves to stay open (float) if the springs are not tight enough (might actually be the culprit of not making as much boost as you like too).good luck!
Bill

 

[TURBOKID]

hey bill,
I have not had any problems before either with this system until about 2 months ago. Do you think there might be something in the ecu that might be causing this thing to act up?
About the springs Dan put on PSI this winter and I have always run Kmotion before. So when this started I check them and the psi was 30 lbs more on seat but 100lbs lighter on open. So I thought that maybe it was floating the valves and changed back to the K-motion which is the springs that I have been running for about 4 years now. A new set.
I to have had to send the ecu back to try and fix the Indv. cly. control wich still does not work. the car has always pulled 8200 if I wanted it to.
I think that this miss may have started after I had my anti roll replaced after the first race of this year. And I think thats about when it started. The log from that first race show 8100 thru the trapps. So with some welding done on the car I decide maybe it missed somthing up, but I have changed everything but the ecu.
Yah your right I hate car also.

But on the other had when I went out this past weekend to race with the wrong class the Big outlaw 10.5 cars, and some how made the field the first time out on some 31w's and weighting more than the big blocks had to and got in the feild of 16 with 21 cars running for it. And run a 5.206 and the bump was a 5.322 I can't wait to fix this thing and see what it will realy run in the 1/4 sometime.
Richie

 

[EightSecV6]

Richie,
I would send it back and let them test it, welding with the FAST or the MSD is a big no no, you have to disconnect the grounds or else...
If you lower the boost, will it RPM?

 

[EightSecV6]

I have tried a bunch of different springs, and the K1000H has worked the best for us

 

[opeltwinturbo]

Richie: Opel has gone 5.08 @ 143. Normally 29# boost. If I can get a 1.20 60' (it is usually off the back tires) I can expect around a 5.10. Last year I had major boost control problems. Waste gates were too small for the pair of 68's. Wouldn't allow enough bleed off. Boost went to 37#. Blew head gaskets every week. That really sucked. For 2003, changed to HKS "racegates" and have had no boost problems. Car stays consistant @ 29#.

Good luck.

 

[FISCUS]

Hey Richie,
I didn't see it anywhere in the posts but what do you gap your plugs at? I have to gap mine at 26 or the car will do the same thing as yours when I turn the boost up. Also I ran a ground directly from the battery all the way to the engine block.
Hope you get it sorted out!

Dave Fiscus
8.75@159.37

 

[TURBOKID]

the thing is that I have not changed anything that I have been doing from last year. the plugs are AR472 gap at .030. I did try going to .025 but It didnt change anything.

I have tried to change almost everything but the ecu to fix the miss, so I guess monday the ecu is going out, maybe I will get lucky with it. I would like to change over to a dist. but I dont want to have problems like Bill says he is having, Because even though it is not running good I'm still runing with the class on the hot tracks but when it cools off I will need this thing fixed.

 

[TurboDiverArt]

Originally posted by EightSecV6
Richie,
I would send it back and let them test it, welding with the FAST or the MSD is a big no no, you have to disconnect the grounds or else...
If you lower the boost, will it RPM?

I was about to say the same thing. I toasted an alternator once when I tried to fix a crack without pulling the alt apart. Same thing happens with any electronics on the car I believe.

I "think" you only need to worry about it when TIG welding. Someone once told me that MIG welding is OK but that could be with aluminum welding only. Either way I disconnect the computer with any type of welding (MIG or TIG).