Need some Info on 9'' rear ends.


C. Horel
Need some help on how to build or what to get, for switching to a new rear end, isnt there a Ford 9 inch that our Buicks can put on an handle. So im wondering what year of a car that would come off of and what car it would come from to. Then I wanted to rebuild it an put C-clip eliminators on, and for the gears I have no idea so if anyone has some suggestions for that, that would be great. Also what else do you have to get to complete this little project. One of the things is that I want to do is try an get C-clip eliminators.
Don't know exactly what size will fitbut all ford nine inch rears don't need c clip eliminators because they have no c clips.

The axles are already held in with by the bearings and the plates that then bolt onto the axle tubes.Just like a c clip eliminator does on a car that came with c clips.
You would have to also change the brake line over the center hub i believe to a couple inches longer than what gm has in there.
I am narrowing a 9 inch right now for a 85 limited that will recieve an 87 turbo drivetrain. I got the rear out of a 78 lincoln and i had to cut it down 4 1/2" to fit the regal. If you are thinking about junkyard diving for one make sure you get the heavy duty housing (the housing is lap welded over the axle tubes about 1 1/2" - the light duty is just butt welded)
There are no "bolt in" stock versions of the 9", least not that I have ever seen. You can buy them bolt in from aftermarket companys, but thats about it without doing some cutting and welding. From what i've seen if you can't cut down a stock houseing yourself, your better off getting an aftermarket one already setup to bolt in. I'd check around though and see what some of the places in your area would charge to make one and also sell you a bolt in one.
As far as the brake hose, I just made a bracket that comes off the top of the pig and bolted my stock hose too it then ran my steel brake line to the wheel cylinders.
Why in the world would you want to go 9"?

The factory Buick rear will be just fine into the 9s if properly set up. Also, the 9" inherently has more friction due to the placement of the pinion, unless you go to an after market (read very expensive high pinion) 3rd member and gears. You'd be much better off to stay GM. JMHO , :cool:
Yes, there is a little more loss with the 9" because of the location of the pinion input, but you also have two pinion supports. The 9" is superior to any GM rear end. It's just overall a better design. If you really plan on putting power down, you'll need a nodular case. Good luck on finding that for an acceptable price. My dad's '64 Corvette with a 550hp 302 completely destroyed a non-nodular iron 9" case, and it only ran high 11's at that point.
My point exactly

If a GM rear is properly prepped, it is strong enough for a lot of abuse. I narrowed a 12 bolt for my 11.50 (sub 10s on juice) BB Vega, and it had literally thousands of runs on it, with no breakage. After I sold the car, it was put into a tubbed/backhalved BB Camaro with 14-32s, and finally broke a spider gear. A spool cured that. I do 9" housings all the time for customers, but make mine GM. 9"s are easy to build and narrow, but if you want them strong, ya gotta buy the expensive parts to make them that way. My 12 bolt was all stock parts (originally a Chevelle rear) except for the Richmond gear, C-clip eliminators and Strange axles. With a TA cover, good gears, good axles, and proper prep to the carrier, a GM rear will stand up to an unbelievable amount of power. :cool: