NEED SOMEONE IN THE SACRAMENTO AREA CAN INSTALL HEADGASKETS .

[Popabd4]

Need headgasket kit installed in my 86 t type . I’m located in Sacramento . Any help In the right directions would be much appreciated

 

[Gary Durden]

Check with TurboTGuy, he knows someone

 

[grass doctor]

go check out wilton garage if they are still there

 

[~JM~]

Need headgasket kit installed in my 86 t type . I’m located in Sacramento . Any help In the right directions would be much appreciated

How many miles on your car?

Do you know if the original timing chain has been replaced?

How about the fuel pump?


You may need to have several jobs completed.

 

[Popabd4]

Check with TurboTGuy, he knows someone

Where ?

 

[Gary Durden]

Lou Czarnota, Lake Forest, CA

 

[TIMINATOR]

It's not just about replacing the headgaskets, the heads AND deck need to be checked for flatness! Otherwise you may be setting yourself up for another failure.
This is important on N/A engines, and doubly important on blown engines of any kind, with turbo engines being even more susceptible to repeated failure due to them most often running higher boost than any of the belt driven types.
An old rotary broach that was the standard in decking machines for many years, is a total loser for any machining on a blown engine.
Not checking, or correctly machining any head removed for any reason is unacceptable in our turbo world.
Some have gotten lucky, not machining before reinstalling, but that's all that happened, or, they just aren't really making much HP anyway.
The freshly "rebuilt" engine in my "T" Limited when purchased, was machined block and heads with an "old timey" rotary broach. It was not running when I purchased it, after replacing all of the senders, it ran fine, for about 15 miles, before "kicking out" BOTH headgaskets at 10 lbs of boost.
ALL MLS gaskets, also require milling with a CBN diamond tooled mill, read the instructions.
1st pic, self explanatory,
2nd pic, SECOND cut on block, BHJ fixtured. Note the roughness left on the deck from the old cut, easily seen at the edges of the new diamond cut, and the smoothness of the CBNs finish.
All of you folks proud of running "fast" with an "unopened" engine, think of what you are leaving on the table.... This is why BHJ developed this fixture. It took a bit over .022" to square my block front to back, side to side. Yup, that means 6 different compression ratios on my engine!
Wood warps and "moves" so does iron, especially after 35 years...
TIMINATOR

 

[dank GN]

I’m in palmdale and could check it out if you are still lookin

 

[Mr.Spool]

It's not just about replacing the headgaskets, the heads AND deck need to be checked for flatness! Otherwise you may be setting yourself up for another failure.
This is important on N/A engines, and doubly important on blown engines of any kind, with turbo engines being even more susceptible to repeated failure due to them most often running higher boost than any of the belt driven types.
An old rotary broach that was the standard in decking machines for many years, is a total loser for any machining on a blown engine.
Not checking, or correctly machining any head removed for any reason is unacceptable in our turbo world.
Some have gotten lucky, not machining before reinstalling, but that's all that happened, or, they just aren't really making much HP anyway.
The freshly "rebuilt" engine in my "T" Limited when purchased, was machined block and heads with an "old timey" rotary broach. It was not running when I purchased it, after replacing all of the senders, it ran fine, for about 15 miles, before "kicking out" BOTH headgaskets at 10 lbs of boost.
ALL MLS gaskets, also require milling with a CBN diamond tooled mill, read the instructions.
1st pic, self explanatory,
2nd pic, SECOND cut on block, BHJ fixtured. Note the roughness left on the deck from the old cut, easily seen at the edges of the new diamond cut, and the smoothness of the CBNs finish.
All of you folks proud of running "fast" with an "unopened" engine, think of what you are leaving on the table.... This is why BHJ developed this fixture. It took a bit over .022" to square my block front to back, side to side. Yup, that means 6 different compression ratios on my engine!
Wood warps and "moves" so does iron, especially after 35 years...
TIMINATOR

This^^^^^^^^