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new engine start up, do's and don'ts

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EVIL

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Jun 30, 2008
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I'm just about ready to start up my new build but i want to be sure on a few things.

It is a full roller and i am using Joe Gibbs break in oil. I've used it before and it works great.

I'm getting the oil priming tool. How long do you run it for?

Upon start up on a roller motor, what is the proper break in procedure?

how many miles before applying boost and how much at a time?

Thank you
D
 

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Just prime the oil system til the drill wants to twist out of your hand, if you keep going you will just wash away any assembly lube that was used.

once your primed and cam sensor is set I usually crank it over with the ecm disconnected til the oil pressure comes up. (this will pump up the lifters)

once you are ready to fire it up I always hotwire the high speed fan relay (mainly if you are breaking in a flat cam.)

once your running have a friend or yourself check for leaks and top up cooling system.

There is no special procedure for the roller cam, the main concern now is rings

there are many opinions on this, just google it.

as for boost, same thing, but depending on which head gaskets you used the manufacturer may want the heads retorqued after a heat cycle and before a boost load.

Couple of Don'ts....

Do not keep cranking it if it wont start you'll wash down the cylinders with gas.

Do not let it overheat, excessive temps will kill it.

Lastly, dont be nervous... whats the worst that can happen :tongue:
 
very nice info.

I used cometics and loosened them and re-torqued them 5 times in 2 to 3 day intervals with in two weeks time.

Thank you

D
 
DO NOT IDLE ON THE FIRST STARTUP, run it up!

Go to 2,000/3/000 rpm to throw oil up on the cam/lifter assembly.
Not sure what GIBBS break-in oil recommends for longevity before changing,
change it when they suggest and use 10/30 oil.

Enjoy.. :D
 
Yeep

do not idle on the first startup, run it up!

Go to 2,000/3/000 rpm to throw oil up on the cam/lifter assembly.
Not sure what gibbs break-in oil recommends for longevity before changing,
change it when they suggest and use 10/30 oil.

Enjoy.. :d

this is correct . I do 4 heat cycles & go racing .. Brad penn breakin oil in a joe gibbs bottle ..neat ..
 
The oil states that it's good for multiple dyno pulls, one night of racing or 400 miles on the street. I was going to change the break in oil and filter after the the initial start up and then use VR1.

Hold the throttle at 3000 rpm? for how long? i'm sure it's not as long as a flat tappet cam.

thanks
D
 
There is no special procedure for the roller cam, the main concern now is rings

+1

I like to do:
To set new rings to the bore I like to vary RPM from Idle to 4000 RPM in a waveform not too fast-- moderately raising RPMs and then slowly dropping them. Do this for a few minutes. Then change the oil. Fresh oil and filter then a change again at 500 miles.
Your cam being roller is out of the break in equation.
 
Full roller?

1) Fire it.
2) Check for leaks and make bring it to temp.
3) Pull it out on the road and ht it with some boost. Do 4-5 12# pulls in third gear to around 4500 rpm. EDIT: While doing these pulls let it coast down in gear after each pull.
4)Change oil an dcut apart/inspect oil filter.

If it's a street car and it makes you feel better put a few hundred miles on it of semi-easy driving and repeat step 4

5) Go race.
 
I rebuilt many aircraft engines, which had roller cams. We preoiled them (use a drill) & then turned them with an electric motor to get oil pressure.
When we fired them up, we ran them at 600rpm for 30 minutes & gradually increased rpm after that (in 30 minute intervals).
 
I rebuilt many aircraft engines, which had roller cams. We preoiled them (use a drill) & then turned them with an electric motor to get oil pressure.
When we fired them up, we ran them at 600rpm for 30 minutes & gradually increased rpm after that (in 30 minute intervals).

Just for reference would it be correct to assume these engines red lined around 2500?
 
Full roller?

1) Fire it.
2) Check for leaks and make bring it to temp.
3) Pull it out on the road and ht it with some boost. Do 4-5 12# pulls in third gear to around 4500 rpm. EDIT: While doing these pulls let it coast down in gear after each pull.
4)Change oil an dcut apart/inspect oil filter.

If it's a street car and it makes you feel better put a few hundred miles on it of semi-easy driving and repeat step 4

5) Go race.

What he said, except repete step 4 a few more times till the oil is actually clean comeing out.
I change the oil in the Camaro after every weekend of thrashing. Last winter I changed it, ran it a few Minuites to get it warm and shut it down. Drained it into a jug and let it sit till spring. When I emptied the jug, you could see ALOT of stuff. Dirt, metal, crap that you wouldnt normally see. Oil is cheap and I run Rotella 15-40 in everything from the lawn mower to the race car.

Craig
 
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