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Clark6

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 15, 2006
Messages
1,185
Hi Razor Me Again, Installed The Kit All Day Wednesday Finally Got It Together About 11:30 That Night Shouldve Kicked Myself For Being So Easy Now That I Look Back I Can Do It Half The Time Next Time,;) Any Way Heres My Problem Finished Every Thing Got To The Last Page To Do My Checks Ok 1) Switched Ignition On..... Low Led Was Bright Red With No Alch In Tank --Good
2) Remote Box Led Light On-- Not As Bright But On.....
3) Push Test Mode The Power On Led Was Bright Red & Power Injec. Light Some What Green Lit Up-- Ok.... So Far So Good..
Dials Sat Like You Had Them Between 5&6 Which I Guess Would Be The 10 O Clock Position
4) Filled Alch Tank with meth Low Level Light Goes Out

Test Drive .... Eased Up To 4 & 5 Psi Boost Power On Led Flickers Til Bright Red.. Perfect I Stopped At 10 PSI Boost ,No Knock
It Was Gettin Late So I Went To Bed Left Every Thing Like It Was.

Today Its Day Light Try Every Thing Again. Couldnt See The Power On Led That Well But I Knew It Was Workin Because I Hit Test & It Lit Up Bright & Car Ran A Hair Rich 0.9 Deg Knock 824mv.
Turned Dial On Remote To #7 Boost To 15psi 1.1knock Retard But Went Away Quickly Mv 800 Still Cant See The Power On Led Light.

Boost To 19psi Mv796 Remote Dial Still On #7 2.2 Knock Retard But Went Away Quickly, Still Cant See The Power On Led. Pressed Test Could See It Bright & Red As Night.

So I Assumed Every Things Still Working So I Waited Till Night...... Boost At 22, Cold Out Side, Press Test, Good Eased Up To 4 Or 5 Psi Of Boost The Power Led Flickers Barely Red Eased Up To 10 Psi , Barely Red Again 15 Up To 20 No Knock But The Power On Led Still A Dim Red, I Thought It Was Suppose To Turn Green At This Point
So I Tried It Again Floored It To 22psi No Knock But The Power Inj Light Didnt Light Up This Time, Power On Flickered Dim Red No Green
So While It Was WOT After It Wouldnt Change I Hit The Test Button .... BOOM Bright Green, I Said Now Thats The Way Its Suppose To Work.
It Seems To Somewhat Be Sprayin Some Alch In Because before this set up No Way I Could Boost Past 17 Without Knock In The High 11 & 13 Deg.k.r
But My Problem Is With The Gas Pedal Its Not Making The Power On Led Turn Bright Red Like Last Night & The Green Is Definately Not Coming On That Way Unless I Press Test. My Map Sensor Is Getting 4.9 Volts With The Car Off But Ign. On. At The Gray Wire But Its Also Getting 4.9 At The Green Sensor Wire . I Didnt Bother Any Settings On The Pump, Or The Pac Controller Only The Remote Gain Knob , What Couldve Happen From Last Night Til Now Did A Gremlin Go Out And Bother Something Did I Miss Something. what should i check im close on this thing i just gotta get this figured out.
 
as per instructions , key on you should be measuring 1.6v at the green output wire of the map sensor (center pin) and you should check it at its connection into the controller
if not t 1.6v recheck all your wiring
 
Definitely sounds like you have a loose ground or another wiring issue. Check the pump ground.
 
ok thanks to the both of you guys will check it in the morning.
oh yeah now i do not have the violet or the gray wire hooked to any thing cuz unless i missed something i thought i read it doesnt require it....
 
Getting 4.9 At The Green Sensor Wire . I Didnt Bother Any Settings On The Pump, Or The Pac Controller Only The Remote Gain Knob , What Couldve Happen From Last Night Til Now Did A Gremlin Go Out And Bother Something Did I Miss Something. what should i check im close on this thing i just gotta get this figured out.

3 bar map Key On engine not running will read ~1.6volts dc. If you apply air pressure to the sensor nipple, that voltage will increase. At 2.2 vdc its preset to activate the PAC. And as the voltage rises from 2.2 the intensity of drive to pump increases.

I would check your connections on the 3 bar MAP, make sure there is no corrossion on the plug, and triple check that line coming from the plenum to the MAP sensor for any issues. If the plastic tube has a break in it, it could bleed of pressure and not allow the MAP sensor to see full signal. Easy test would be unhook it from the plenum and apply air pressure to it making sure its not leaking.

Another test, unhook line from nozzle.. put end of hose into container.. gallon jug is fine.. now turn ignition on.. and apply air pressure to the MAP sensor.. bet it starts the pump and making it run stronger the more air pressure applied.

Ohh.. the LED on the box is purposely setup to be dim. That way at night it doesnt become a distraction. Your Power Injection bulb and other LED should let ya know things are working.

And... if you ever have the slightest doubt something may or maynot be working, reduce boost level on the motor until all is figured out. If things dont work predictably at 15 PSI.. there is no business taking it to 25 PSI. And watch knock activity after you've been in the throttle. Stabbing the gas pedal on these cars can cuase the knock sensor to flare up.. and no amount of alcohol can repair a hitting downpipe, transmission mount, engine mount, etc.

Post back what ya found.
 
FOUND IT!!! AS I SUSPECTED AT FIRST BUT WASNT SURE BECAUSE OUTSIDE APPEARANCE LOOKS GOOD..... THE WRONG THING I WAS DOING WAS CHECKING VOLTAGE WITH THE (MAP HARNESS) UNPLUGGED DUHHH.:redface: SO I PLUGGED IT BACK UP & STUCK A NEEDLE IN MIDDLE GREEN WIRE THEN TO GROUND & GOT MY 1.6 VOLTAGE BLEW INTO HOSE IT CLIMBED. CHECKED SOME MORE LIKE YOU GUYS SAID I WASNT GETTING IT TO THE GREEN PAC SIGNAL WIRE, SO I TOOK THE CONNECTOR LOOSE (I DIDNT USE ANY SOLDER ON ANY OF THIS SET UP) THE INSULATION ON THE GREEN WIRE WASNT SKINT ENOUGH.. SO I SKINNED IT CONNECTED IT BACK UP-- WALLAAAA 1.6V.

GOT IN, DROVE IT, EASED ON IT, POWER LED BRIGHT RED THEN GREEN-YESS!!!
NEXT TIME FLOORED IT STUMBLED A SEC OR TWO MV 898 I THINK, LITTLE KNOCK LIKE 2.3 KR BUT WENT AWAY TO 0 QUICKLY BOOST AT A STEADY 22PSI

TRIED IT AFTER THE SHIFT FROM 2ND THIS TIME TURNED THE REMOTE GAIN KNOB DOWN FROM 7 TO #4 STILL AT 22PSI STUMBLED A LITTLE AS I PROGRESSED INTO THE SPEED (IS TURBO TURNED TOO HIGH?) BUT ONCE WOT STUMBLE WENT AWAY MV 816 KNOCK WAS 1.7 ON THE SHIFT BUT WENT AWAY QUICKLY THEN STAYED AT 0 KR MV STAYED AT 816 TO 822 ON THE RUN AT A STEADY NO CREEP 22PSI!!! ALL LEDS WORKING PROPERLY, THINGS FAST ON AMOCO 93 OCTANE!! NOW THIS IS STILL ON THE 93 ARMSTRONG STREET CHIP, GOTTA GET A TT CHIP NEXT ON THE AGENDA.

THANKS EVERBODY.... :D HERES A PIC OF THAT SNEAKY LITTLE CONNECTOR.
 

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i wouldnt rely on a squeeze tap for a good connect or for underhood exposed to weather and definitely not for something so important to your engines health as the map signal to the PAC , as you found their ability to make a sound connection is far from good

instructs reccomend a more solid tap , stripping back wire jacket seperate strands and twisting in tap wire then solder then seal with tape or shrink tube
the instructs also make you aware of an alternative to the wire tap being made at the map sensor , the map signal (green wire) can be tapped at the white dash connector above the ecm , its at the right side of the glovebox (drop the box fully open) and makes for a good connection point that wont fail due to the elements .
 
Chain is only as strong as its weakest link.

Solder was included.. please use and never ever ever ever worry about it again. You can wrap it with any UL listed electrical tape and be fine, but if that pesky connector gives you one issue at 25 PSI.. you'll hurt the engine.

Glad you found the problem.. And nice meter BTW :D
 
OK THANKS GUYS , WILL DO ON THE SOLDER LET ME GO GET A GUN, IM ENJOYING EVERY BIT OF THIS KIT- HERE'S A QUICK PIC OF MY FAIRLY DECENT, TO ME ANY WAY- INSTALL.:rolleyes: I WENT AHEAD & PUT BOTH LEDS BY THE BOOST GAUGE , I DID PUT THE POWER INJ. WHERE IT WAS SUPPOSE TO BE , BUT I MANANGED TO PUT THE PUMP UPSIDE DOWN BUT I DONT PLAN ON BOTHERING THE PUMP ADJUSTMENT BUT IF I HAVE TO I CAN STILL GET TO IT. THANKS AGAIN EVERYONE.
 

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