No power to instrument light fuse

[boosted231]

I have not had any dash lights for quite some time. Checked the fuse and it was ok but there is no power getting to the fuse. Any ideas
Thanks

 

[GNSCOTT]

Check the tail lamps fuse also 20A.

It feeds the 5 A Dash LPS fuse.

Or the dimmer rotary control.

 

[boosted231]

All other fuses check out fine and I have already replaced the dimmer switch

 

[V8 KILR]

possibility

I had the same problem once and it turned out to be the wire going to the gear indicator light in the console. The 12V wire broke away from the bulb socket, and shorted on the metal gear selector, and knocked out my instrument lamp fuse. After I repaired the wire and threw in a new fuse, all was well again.

 

[6whistler]

What did the solution to the problem end up being? I have the same problem right now. Thanks

 

[SloGN]

The power comes from the headlite switch. Here is power in the fuse panel on when the park/headlites are on.

 

[6whistler]

Ok, thank you for that SloGN. After a long and frustrating day I am still in the same position as I was yesterday. I spent the morning redoing fuse links, and the afternoon replacing the ingition switch. Simply trying to eliminate possible culprits. I still do not have power to any of the dash lights on the left side, and when I turn my turn signals on the outside lights are solid (rather than blinking), and there are no inside flashers in dash. However, hazards still work perfectly inside and out. Im wondering if I could have fried a wire without blowing a fuse>

 

[6whistler]

Sorry just replied to wrong post.

 

[SloGN]

sounds to me like you have a bad connection on the guage panel itself. Remove the guage panel and bend out the little copper/brass tab so it has a better connection. Cleaning then with a eraser makes them shiney and clean.

Now there is a couple of things that could be causing the no flashing of the turn signal. One you have one bulb bad in the circuit be either the front marker/ lower turn or the rear taillights, Check the grounds. The taillight ground is located in the trunk on the left rear where the main harness exits the body. you will see where it bolts in. clean it.

I have also seen that the ground on the lower front turn singal/buld holder i have seen those have a bad connection inside the socket, Give the ground wire a slight tugg to see if the wire is connected good. If so make sure that the inside tab are clean and free of any old grease from yrs past.

HTH

Pat

 

[6whistler]

Thank you Pat...the generosity of everyones time and help has been tremendous. I will re-do the dash check. I had my trusty eraser out there last time and everything, but it sure sounds like that is where the root of the problem is. I moved around the harness with my hand and everything while the dash was out last time. Ill go through each light too, to make sure each one is getting power.
Is it safe to suggest that the blinker issue is a slighty different issue than the instrument panel lights?

 

[SloGN]

Thank you Pat...the generosity of everyones time and help has been tremendous. I will re-do the dash check. I had my trusty eraser out there last time and everything, but it sure sounds like that is where the root of the problem is. I moved around the harness with my hand and everything while the dash was out last time. Ill go through each light too, to make sure each one is getting power.
Is it safe to suggest that the blinker issue is a slighty different issue than the instrument panel lights?

yes its safe to say that the turn signal issue is separate from the no dash lights.

 

[6whistler]

You guys are good. The Constant turn signal was a result of a bad taillight. Fixed.
The dash light issue is yet to be resolved. I pulled the dash again and found that the top left tab, and the 4th tab down on the right (I believe), both have power with key to run position. Used a test light to determine that. Also found that the turn signal tabs also work. (made the test light flash with turn signal). So, I do not know the circuitry of that copper plastic wire film on the back of the dash well enough to determine what the problem is from here. I know clean and pull the tabs out is the 1st step. But Im assuming more is going on here than a bad connection because its not just one bulb, its several that dont go on, and the bulbs are known good. I tested them on the check engine light that comes on before car is started.

 

[SloGN]

You guys are good. The Constant turn signal was a result of a bad taillight. Fixed.
The dash light issue is yet to be resolved. I pulled the dash again and found that the top left tab, and the 4th tab down on the right (I believe), both have power with key to run position. Used a test light to determine that. Also found that the turn signal tabs also work. (made the test light flash with turn signal). So, I do not know the circuitry of that copper plastic wire film on the back of the dash well enough to determine what the problem is from here. I know clean and pull the tabs out is the 1st step. But Im assuming more is going on here than a bad connection because its not just one bulb, its several that dont go on, and the bulbs are known good. I tested them on the check engine light that comes on before car is started.

Well the next thing to check .

Remove the headlite/dimmer switch assembly from the dash.

Have you checked to see if there is any power on the fuse with the headlites powered on ? All power for the dash lights comes from the brown wire at the headlite switch then from the dimmer switch to the fuse box its dark green. The outgoing wire from the fuse box is grey.

The power comes into the dash connector on pin 10 that is the top left pin. check for power and if so see if you can dim the test lite using the dimmer.

Now the grounds for the dash are located on pins 11 and 8. both of these pins are located in the second spot from the top on both column. The ground termines to the body somewhere near the steering column.

One other thing you can check is check the grey wire under the radio pod . This is where the console wiring for the shifter buld is attached. or you can take the shifter plate loose and check it there. The reason im suggesting this as this bulb has it's own ground that attached to the shifter. so if there is power on the grey wire that bulb should lite up.

HTH .
pat
Please note this is for a standard guage cluster with boost/tach

 

[SloGN]

here is a couple of pic from the shop manual.

 

[6whistler]

Thank you John, and others.
This morning I got up went back outside to the garage and went over everything one more time. After reading a few other articles I became aware that there is a specific bulb that is supposed to go in the volt light terminal. (It provides different resistance, I guess). Mine was not in the correct place as a result of testing all the bulbs in the check engine light terminal last time I was out working in the car. (For future reference, the socket behind my dash that is supposed to be in the volt light position is black, and all the rest are gray. And if you look inside the bulb the volt bulb has blue on the inside.) So, after cleaning everything again, really making sure that the terminals on the harness were nice and flared, and putting everything back together I HAVE A VOLTAGE LIGHT!!!!!!!!!! Now that the problem has been diagnosed the field harness kit is the next thing to go on.
The only other thing I need to diagnose is why my dash turn signal lights do not go on. I have 1 small front lower marker light out. Once I get a bulb to replace it i hope it straightens out the inside issue. Turns out I had not 2, but 3 electrical problems at the same time. Thanks guys, Im glad the major issues have at least been taken care of

 

[6whistler]

Pat, thank you. I was looking for the last inage you sent yesterday. Unsuccessful in my search.

 

[HRobertson1]

Hey all. I know this is a way old post but after reading 6whistlers post it was helpful for me. I've been battling a no charge alternator for a while, and after having the dash apart cleaning the pins, tracking wires and checking bulbs and voltages. Mine finally came down to the dimmer switch. After rolling it up and down a few times and wiping off the pins the volt light popped right on. I have a caspers kit coming and plan to put that on, but this was a pain

 

[BRAD_PADGETT]

Caspers field fix or new flex board solves the no charge alternator/volt light issue.