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No start/fuel problem Please help

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turbowannabe

Member
Joined
Dec 6, 2001
Messages
375
Trying to get my project up and running and I can't get the damn thing to even try to start. Primed the oil pump and set the cam sensor using one of Caspers cam sensor tools. I've got spark, injector pulse and 40lbs of fuel pressure but the car will not start. I shot some carb cleaner directly into the intake with the throttle open, cranked her over and she fired and I immediately shut the key off.
I was starting to think that I didn't get the cam timed right, but wouldn't the car at least get fuel and fire every once in a while, or just run like complete crap? I also have a ATR pitbull chip for stock injectors but the car has Tomco D1720AA injectors which look to be 33lb injectors. Could having the wrong chip not let the car start? I'm stumed right now. I would re-time the cam but the cam tool I used is one a buddy of my let me borrow and I can't get it from him right now. Let me know what you think

thanks
-Dan


Forgot to mention that the car has a fuel cell with Aeromotive pump and lines. Still holds 40psi when cranking though.
 
Trying to get my project up and running and I can't get the damn thing to even try to start. Primed the oil pump and set the cam sensor using one of Caspers cam sensor tools. I've got spark, injector pulse and 40lbs of fuel pressure but the car will not start. I shot some carb cleaner directly into the intake with the throttle open, cranked her over and she fired and I immediately shut the key off.
I was starting to think that I didn't get the cam timed right, but wouldn't the car at least get fuel and fire every once in a while, or just run like complete crap? I also have a ATR pitbull chip for stock injectors but the car has Tomco D1720AA injectors which look to be 33lb injectors. Could having the wrong chip not let the car start? I'm stumed right now. I would re-time the cam but the cam tool I used is one a buddy of my let me borrow and I can't get it from him right now. Let me know what you think

thanks
-Dan


Forgot to mention that the car has a fuel cell with Aeromotive pump and lines. Still holds 40psi when cranking though.
i would say the cam sensor is still off.
 
no power to injectors

I got a chance to get a hand and check things over again. I have a test light that can be used on computer circuits and shows a green light when it is grounded and a red light when it has power. I found that the injector is pulsing a ground signal on both sides of the injector connectors. So, I have no power to injectors but the ECM is trying to fire them. And the reason I'm getting a ground signal on both sides of the connector is due to the ground backfeeding through another injector when it "fires". Please tell me where to look for my power problem. All fuses checked OK.

-Dan
 
It's neither cam or crank sensor. I'm not getting the common power to the injectors, but the computer is trying to fire them being they are ground fired. The relay under the hood is working but there's no power to the gray wire. I'll do some more wire tracing and try to figure out.
 
Is there anyway that this may be related to my fuel pump hotwire kit being hooked up? I've gotta new kit comming tomorrow from Caspers that will work with my Aeromotive pump. Just wasn't sure if this somehow backfeeds to the injectors being they get power from the same place when the car is stock.
 
I've checked all fuses in the fuse box under the dash. I'll do my quadruple check tomorrow I guess. I'm running out of options besides just running a new wire with a inline fuse. What size fuse should I use if it comes down to that?
 
Don't run a new wire.... I'm not convinced of your diagnosis thus far and the 'backfeeding ground' theory. While you may have no power at the 'gray' wire.... I take it that's the one behind the alt to power the fuel pump??, the injectors don't get their power from the relays on the fender. Attached below is the GM Factory Diagnostic Flowchart for a 'no-start' situation for our cars. It sounds as though you have a somewhat / decent idea of what your doing, and given that, you should print out all 3 pages (pages linked at top of 1st page) and really read closely and understand what each step is verifying. There is an explanation for each step of the flowchart. Given that understanding, you will be able to confirm/verify some of the steps based on your observations or other indicators, but go thru the steps methodically, and you WILL determine what is causing your car not to start.... if it starts on ether, than it shouldn't be too hard to nail down..... hope this helps ! :)

No Start Diagnosis - Page 1
Courtesty of Turbo Regal Web Site

PS - recommend you join above group also.... their forums are good also and their 'Technical Articles' are second to none..... :wink:

EDIT - oh hell.... Looked at your profile.... I didn't realize you were an old timer! :-) You're probably already a member!
 
Bad thing about that flow chart is that it really doesn't show that much. I've got a wiring diagram that has the same power wiring going to a more than just the injector harness. It also goes to the fuel pump relay and the oil pressure switch. And I do not have power to the pink/black injector power wire at either of those connections. I checked all of my fuses and they have power on both sides of them. I even unbolted the fuse block and checked every pink/black wire on the back of the fuse block and they all had power. This leads me to believe I have a open somewhere in the wire being that I don't have power on that wire at the injector harness, fuel pump relay or oil pressure switch. This is basically a street/strip car and it won't hurt to just go ahead and run a new wire with a inline fuse. Although just to be sure, I'm going to wait for my new fuel pump hotwire harness from Caspers just to make sure that doesn't have anything to do with it. I'm tired of messing with trying to trace down my problem when I can just run a new wire and call it a day.
 
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