Now that I got a BOMB A$$ deal I need some advice

[t3intercooled]

Something happened that almost everyone has never seen before. My pushrod blew straight through the rocker (see pic below). Well in the search for all my different rocker possibilites I came across this amazing & out of this world deal all for only $965!!

Champion GN1 14 bolt Aluminum cylinder heads, machined with receiver grooves for loc wire gaskets, Completely ported, polished, and gasket matched to Felpro 1200 and 1400 gaskets by Champion with lower ported intake which is portmatched to the heads. In addition it came with 5/16 heavy wall push rods, Accufab upper plenum, and RJC power plate.

Prior to selling he took the heads off his motor and had them checked, jet washed, lap valves, new stem seals, set spring pressures. They have Isky gold stripe tool room 1.550 double springs with dampeners 295lb closed/580 open @ 600 lift, titanium retainers, 10 degree locks, 1.60 stainless exh valves, 1.90 stainless intake valves, and topped off with scorpion 1.65 ratio 7/16 stud mounted rockers.

The combo came off of his aluminum TA 3800 block. With the above combo he ran a best of 9.33 at 143 while running 22lbs of boost on a T70 turbo. He is going with the new champion R heads and intake combo. The cam he has is a solid roller and is a .600 lift 232 @ .050.

Now I am also going to change my cam and lifters. So the following question has 4 parts to it.

First what is the difference between a hydraulic roller cam shaft and a solid roller cam shaft.

Second if funds were somewhat limited can those heads and roller rockers work with hydraulic flat tappet camshafts?

Third if I was to go with a hydraulic flat tappet camshaft what would have to be done on the heads to ensure that it would work with a more streetable hydraulic flat tappet camshaft . (For example he said I can just remove the inner spring for a hydraulc flat tappet cam because the springs currently on the heads have way to much pressure due to the size of camshaft he was using).

Lastly what type of camshaft does everyone reccomend? I would like to get solid roller choices, hydraulic roller choices, and flat tappet choices. My goals I want to be able to run mid to low 10s consistently and at the same time keeping it fairly streetable. By that I simply mean not a vehicle that's trailered to the track, raced, and put back in the trailer afterwards to go home. I do have everything else needed to run those numbers such as fast xfi, complete upgraded fuel system, alky, turbo, built trans with 9" non pickup converter, diff, front mount, the works. I have my stock iron heads with cast rockers fully ported and polished and I'm sure as everyone knows they can breath only so much. I have 4 pics below, the first being a pic of everything I got for $965. The second pic is the flow sheet of the porting. The third is a picture of the cam spec card of my cam that's currently installed for which I purchased from TA performance, and fourth is of what happened to my rocker. Thank you and I appreciate everyone's help!

 

[forcefed3.8's]

Congrats on the steal of a deal. I was looking at those, but already have 2 sets of GN1's, 1 set of R's laying around.
To run a flat tappet cam, you would have to change the springs. The rockers will be fine for what you are looking to do.
For a cam, I would recommend a 212/212 roller, a 206 roller would even get the job done. I would not use a flat tappet, but opinions very.
As far a solid roller vs hydraulic roller, the lobes will be more aggressive on a solid roller. I am running a Weber racing (Red Armstrong spec) 224 hydraulic roller cam with solid lifters tight lashed at .006". It uses the most aggressive hydraulic lobes Comp has. The cams sold by Weber are Red's specs and work very well with 3 bolt turbos when degreed properly. Bigger isn't better. Mid to low 10's is very doable with a small cam, the car will launch better, spool faster, and be stronger down low.
I like either Comp 885 hydraulic roller lifters at 0 lash, or a solid roller lifter. Of course solid rollers for a 109 block are 2x the price.

 

[87GNSteve]

Dont cheap out on a cam, basically the "respiratory system" of the engine. Full Throttle has Comp Roller cam kits with Morel lifters which seem to be quieter and just as reliable as the Comps. You dont have to worry about mixing in oil additives to keep your cam alive, and no break-in time is required for roller set ups. What ever roller set up you decided to go with it really is they best way to go.