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Oil Poll

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What oil do you use

  • mineral-based conventional oil

    Votes: 33 40.7%
  • semi-synthetic

    Votes: 7 8.6%
  • full synthetic

    Votes: 32 39.5%
  • high performance synthetic

    Votes: 9 11.1%

  • Total voters
    81
I like Pennzoil, but are you saying i should (must) add an additive now?
In the diesel i always use Rottella.
 
Diesel oils today are of the low emission variety, CJ4, stay away from these oils if you use them in your Buick, in the case of Chevron's DELO 400 you can still get the old DELO but in 5 gal. buckets and up, next time you are in the auto parts store look at the 15-40 oils and you will see low emission written on it. And you guys that are saying I have been using this and that oil since new need to get re-educated on what these new oils have as ingredients, or what they do not have!! What Dennis has said you need to listen too, stay away from SM oils, you you can find any SJ, SL or if you get lucky SG oils, buy all you can, then you should be good to go, other wise no SM oils without an additive. HTH.


Ron
 
BRAD PENN "the green oil"

All the zinc/hosphorus your motor needs built into it.

Penn Grade 1 High Performance Oil

Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com

kirban 2 cents worth

You are correct to a degree...while other "oil solutions exist, such as brad penn joe gibbs they will not bring it up to 1,800 ppm you can survive on less ppm.....also our solution remains the best and easiest since it allows owners to buy oil they have always bought and is readily available at any auto store....

With over 7 million older cars registered the market is big enough for all......oils like brad penn just reinforces the need for our product......price shipping quarts of brad penn to your door versus a 4 ounce bottle of zddplus.....

The math works out in our favor.....

kirbanperformance.com

denniskirban@yahoo.com

Offering the simpliest solution to the lack of proper levels of zddp.....period.
 
Original poll did not ask about additives, I will get the ZDDP when I use up my supply of EOS.

kirban 2 cents worth

In theory EOS is good however in concentration levels it would take 2 1/2 bottles of GM EOS to equal what is in our 4 ounce bottle of ZDDPlus....

EOS is better than nothing....but you can see how easy it is to market a 4 ounce bottle versus EOS which I believe is either 8 ounces or 12 ounces....can't member as I have a sample at work.

kirbanperformance.com

denniskirban@yahoo.com

Great state you live in......when I was 16 and ran away from home I was picked up in Gallup......on rout 66....back in the early 1960s....
 
holy chit!!!!


Billy Mays here for ZDDP oil additive, your cam won't live long without it. the best chemicals on this planet can be added directly to your oil from a handy 4oz. bottle. No One else comes close to the ZDDP product we offer. Order Now , Dennis Kirban is standing by....
 
I like Pennzoil, but are you saying i should (must) add an additive now?
In the diesel i always use Rottella.

kirban 2 cents worth

When the issue was first raised magazine articles ecommend diesel oils, hwever desel oils have stuff for soot control not desireable in your gas engines....and now new diesel oils have no better content of ZDDP than oil for gas engines....our other main distributor sells direct to a major truck cam company that makes performance cams for diesels and has seen issues already on this matter.

Again Pennzoil Mobile you name it, by regulation the str burst on the back if it reads SM which is now fairly common can;t have over 800 ppm of zddp....none of the oils. Its kind like buying milk at the store you look at the date code to avoid getting sick....SM oils have been out now for well over a year so finding an older code is next to impossible...SF was out in 1987 then it when to SG SH they skipped SI and now on SM.....

kirbanperformance.com

denniskirban@yahoo.com

Oils were always backwards compatible until these new regulations came into effect. Remember the government etc is not interested in older cars....economy revolves around buying new cars....like wiper blades and lite bulbs....
 
kirban 2 cents worth

ronbuick above hits the nail on the head....unfortunately it is getting harder and harder to find the older oil.

Our source was able to have the break in oil from a new 2007 Corvette ZO6 analyzed....owner came into the Chevy dealership with a mere 400 miles on his new ZO6....that oil from GM contained 3,000 ppm of zddp....3,000 ppm...the new Mobile one that he got in his first oil change has only 800 ppm....

I doubt that motor was even broken in at a mere 400 miles.....

I put a bottle of ZDDPlus in every oil change in my mid 1990s cars because back then concentration level was still at 1,200 or 1,500 ppm....it has virtually eliminated any valve train ticking I would get on a cold morning on initial start up.....

Not to mislead anyone it is not a cure all if you have valve train ticking for years but remember things happen gradually.....making it difficult to recognize certain things.

marketing is very clever....ask your wife she knows cereal boxes cost more and may be smaller in size slightly. Candy bars have shrunk...those 5 cent mints are 25 cents and a different size....they do things gradually had they gone from 1,800 ppm to 800 ppm over nite, the issue would have become known instantly...as it was it was engine rebuilders who first discovered the issue and in the beginning some of the issues was blamed on poor quality cam shafts, from china....which I am sure was part of the problem.

Then they initially thought and cam companies agreed it was just at break in you needed a heavy dose of zddp...comp cams has a product guess what that formula is 4 years old in that additive they market which was great when the oil was SG code....

Why you don't want something marginal is because zddp depletes at a faster level for the first 1,000 miles of driving.....one reason you want 1,600 to 1,800 ppm...

For those that want more exact info we have over a dozen tech briefs available written by someone far more knowledgable than me. Send me a pm with your address and we would gladly send you the info.

The high pressure points in your valve train the harder it is on your cam shaft etc.....in other words grand ma driving her small V6 to church on sunday may never have any issue in her lifetime....they have never found anything better than zddp as a lubricant to protect extreme pressure points.

My source now has a production paste available for assembly of the valve train and we have production samples in the hands of several major engine shops to try.
That product has been tested now for 6 months before it was released and has proven to be better than any nationally marketed valve train paste.....including Joe Gibbs......

kirbanperformance.com

denniskirban@yahoo.com

From a Buick standpoint we are very fortunate that the product has been produced by someone who owns the largest turbo buick collection in the world our company is just the main distributor......
 
kirban 2 cents worth

Just to be clear ZDDPlus is available from several turbo Buick vendors and GS vendors. Greg Gessler, ArizonaGns, Gboydparts.com, Year One.....World of Motorworks just to name some of the top of my head.

kirbanperformance.com

denniskirban@yahoo.com

Member wear translates into metal particles going somewhere in your engine....
 
I use Brad Penn 10w-30 and a bottle of GM EOS. I have 39000 Orig Km (24000 Miles). I bought up 2 cases of EOS, before they changed the formula, manufacturer, and started calling it Assembly Lube. This combo works for me.
Honestly, If I thought there was a better combo out there for my flat tappet cam I'd use it. You'll go crazy with all the different opinions given here. There are a thousand posts on this site, just like this one. Do some reading...make your decision....and don't second guess yourself. That's my opinion, or "2 cents worth", and I stand to gain nothing monetary by it. Dave
 
i'm just giving you a hard time for fun dennis. i use it(ZDDP), myself - every oil change.
 
I use Brad Penn 10w-30 and a bottle of GM EOS. I have 39000 Orig Km (24000 Miles). I bought up 2 cases of EOS, before they changed the formula, manufacturer, and started calling it Assembly Lube. This combo works for me.
Honestly, If I thought there was a better combo out there for my flat tappet cam I'd use it. You'll go crazy with all the different opinions given here. There are a thousand posts on this site, just like this one. Do some reading...make your decision....and don't second guess yourself. That's my opinion, or "2 cents worth", and I stand to gain nothing monetary by it. Dave

kirban 2 cents worth

Your solution s perfect....however you see the trouble you had to go through to buy brad penn oil stock up on GM EOS...etc....but you are ahead of the game. Oil is lke a religiion if yo have always used say castrol oil and want to continue to use castrol oil you can do so by adding a bottle of ZDDPlus.

Your also rite about so many different opinions and we get that from companies, but now we have more creditbility when you start naming companies like ones I have n the past that use it and have seen the results. Plus testamonials.

Most Buick people know I have no mechanical ability so it has to be the product....plus the product does not I repeat does not contain one ounce of anything that was not present in the oil back in 1988.

So, when you run out of EOS and don't want to shop for Brad Penn oil....give ZDDPlus a try....hopefully the exchange rate will be more in your favor tha it is rite now.

kirbanperformance.com

denniskirban@yahoo.com

The other week it was like $1.45 of your money to equal $1 US currency.....
Canadians always have it tough buying anything in the US.....
 
Maybe I missed it in a prior thread, but I thought that it was only aftermarket cams that were getting "flat"? My GN has high mileage, LOL, and I only switched to Mobil 1 within the last 10k miles, before that it was changed with valvoline. Seems to run the best it ever has...Should I start using the additives?
 
Royal Purple XPR 10w40

0701gm_07_zls1_engine_buildoil.jpg

XPR — Extreme Performance and Racing oils combines the highest quality synthetic base oil, Royal Purple’s proprietary Synerlec additive technology and additional performance enhancers to create a lubricant that maximizes horsepower and torque, while providing the highest level of protection against heat and wear. XPR provides more protection than conventional motor oils — mineral or synthetic — including those combined with aftermarket additives.

XPR 10W40 is designed for marine, oval track and endurance car racing. Capable of withstanding long intervals of extreme heat, it works especially well with alcohol and methanol. It is extremely popular in sprint cars, late models and World of Outlaws racing.
 
I would like to see the results from Joe Gibbs racing oil, Poyal Purple, Redline and Brad Penn ZDDP levels
 
Maybe I missed it in a prior thread, but I thought that it was only aftermarket cams that were getting "flat"? My GN has high mileage, LOL, and I only switched to Mobil 1 within the last 10k miles, before that it was changed with valvoline. Seems to run the best it ever has...Should I start using the additives?

kirban 2 cents worth

Correct any current sm oil needs zddplus with the oil to bring the proper level of zddp back to 1988 specs....it can be added any time.

kirbanperformance.com

denniskirban@yahoo.com

It does nto matter which oil you are using if the star burst is the current sm they only contian 800 ppm when you need at least 1,300 or better to be in the "safe" zone regarding wear issues on your cam etc.
 
10/30or 40, depending on the season, valvoline vr1 racing oil for the street, no need for any additives
 
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