One front wheel sticking out more than the other…

[Smokin' 6 Shooter]

As my title indicates, I have one front wheel that protrudes further out than the other side. I first noticed this a year or two after I purchased the vehicle from its original owner over twenty years ago. Since I was not ready to upgrade wheels back then, I ignored the discrepancy.

It was, and still is, a stock GN with 15x7 wheels all around. Tires also match at 235/60-15. The difference is noticeable at approximately 3/4" to 1.0" between the left and right sides.

My mechanic (an all-around guy, not Buick-specific) recently took the car for a complete inspection. After measuring all the front suspension pieces, he declared they all matched from left to right and that there was no obvious difference from a parts perspective. He stated he still had yet to check the 'shims' (as he called them) from overhead when the car was off the rack.

I'm looking to upgrade wheels and tires in the coming year but obviously want to rectify this situation first. While waiting for my mechanic's final assessment, I wanted to poll the TurboBuick community.

Has anyone else over heard of or faced this problem before?

Any input would be appreciated…

 

[Azrial89]

There is some good info in this thread

http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/in...t-wheel-tucked-more-than-the-other???.389096/


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[BuickMike231]

The body is off center or crooked on the frame. It's pretty normal from what I understand, the factory didn't line them up that well and 25 year old body bushings aren't helping things either. My front wheels are like that that a bit, the back is pretty centered though. You can try shifting the body on the frame but it'll most likely move back over time.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

As mentioned, body on crooked. Measure from the core support to the edge of the ft frame horns. [There's 2 body mounts on the support.]
As poor as the assy was, the bolts in the core mounts may have fallen out. [Likewise, w/ the rest of the mounts]
Starting at the gaps at the back side of the doors, check to see if they are unequal there, at the ft of the doors, and around the hood.
If the dog house is shifted, you may be able to see it in the gaps.
Time for new body mts,

 

[TRICKSIXPA]

Couple thing to look at check you wheel base center cap to center cap the lengthy should be equal. Check the door gap and the body lines. I'm assuming the suspension is ok tires are not wearing uneven? I've seen the core support bushings crumble in my hand when I removed them and I've seen some in much better condition. Its definitely worth checking on. If you haven't done so replace your motor mounts it won't affect your wheel but I'm sure dr side is broke.


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[charlief1]

This should help some.

http://turbobuick.com/forums/threads/how-to-center-the-body-on-the-frame.374751/

 

[Mike T]

All of the above advice is good. The first thing I would check is to see if the rockers are parallel to the frame and about equal distance on both sides. The next thing would be to raise the hood & cross measure the core support to the cowl (you must measure from symmetrical holes or bolt heads) measure in an x pattern from right to left. The cross measurement will tell you if the front sheet metal is square, BTW older cars were easy to check because all you had to do was see if the fan was centered in the fan shroud. If all of the measurements are within reason you have eliminated the body adjustments.

Next move on to the frame, I would check wheelbase from side to side and make certain the steering wheel is centered because you can loose a 1/2 inch of wheelbase very easy due to the wheel not being centered. The edge of the rims will give the best measurement rather than trying to guess the center of the wheels. If the wheelbase checks out then move to the rear axle. Get someone to help and a piece of string as long as the car, have the person helping hold one end of the string at the center of the rear most sidewall of the rear tire and you hold the other end at the front tire sidewalls without touching the front side walls. Move your end slowly in until the person in the rear can see the string just touch the forward most edge of the rear tire side wall, at this point you will measure the distance or lack thereof between the front tire side walls and the string. Repeat the same process for the opposite side and compare measurements, this will show if you have a diamond or a swayed frame. This do it at home method will work as long as the front wheel camber is close and the rear axle is square in the car. I can look down the sidewalls without the use of string but I've been doing this for along time.

 

[Smokin' 6 Shooter]

All this advice sounds meaty and is truly appreciated but starting to make my head spin. Truth be told, I spend little time under my hood let alone under the car itself so references to core supports and body bushings are lost on me.

I think what I need is a good shop manual (with lots of pictures or, better, diagrams) to help me locate these parts on the vehicle with detailed instructions on how to make adjustments and what tools are needed. I'll readily admit I belong in the "...for Dummies" section of the bookstore so will need the most straight-forward reference material available.

Any suggestions on what titles you folks would recommend?

 

[charlief1]

The link I posted did help any?

 

[Smokin' 6 Shooter]

The link I posted did help any?

Yes, Charlie, your link was helpful as was Azriea89's and the other responses to my query - thank you all.

However, most of these 'how-to' posts assume the reader has some familiarity(sp?) with how a car is assembled, what parts are located where and what tools/skillsets are needed to make changes or repairs. Changing fluids and rotating tires is about the extent of my experience getting hands dirty (although I did once replace brake pads, a water pump and valve cover gasket in college - needed a Chiltons manual for those).

Again, you're dealing with a guy who didn't take auto shop in high school or hang with gearheads. But I'm willing to learn provided I have authoritative publications with lots of pics and diagrams - that or I get one of you folks to crawl under my car and teach me (I'm in Pasadena, CA if someone wants to take me up on it - my wife can make us lunch!).

Sorry for sounding whiny but I need a bit of hand-holding until acquired experience grows my confidence - I appreciate your indulgence!

 

[Smokin' 6 Shooter]

So, again, any suggestions on a good/authoritative shop manual for Turbo Buicks and G-Bodies in general?

 

[scot w.]

Yes, Charlie, your link was helpful as was Azriea89's and the other responses to my query - thank you all.

However, most of these 'how-to' posts assume the reader has some familiarity(sp?) with how a car is assembled, what parts are located where and what tools/skillsets are needed to make changes or repairs. Changing fluids and rotating tires is about the extent of my experience getting hands dirty (although I did once replace brake pads, a water pump and valve cover gasket in college - needed a Chiltons manual for those).

Again, you're dealing with a guy who didn't take auto shop in high school or hang with gearheads. But I'm willing to learn provided I have authoritative publications with lots of pics and diagrams - that or I get one of you folks to crawl under my car and teach me (I'm in Pasadena, CA if someone wants to take me up on it - my wife can make us lunch!).

Sorry for sounding whiny but I need a bit of hand-holding until acquired experience grows my confidence - I appreciate your indulgence!

Very common issue! That is why I try my best to do "Install Threads" as much as I can because they actually "Show"and inform people how a certain job is done rather than explanation by word, it seems to go a lot farther and is much easier for people to understand for those in your same situation. Your best bet will be to try to find someone in your area from this board who can stop by and help you with this issue and/ or show you what needs to be done.

 

[coach]

When I bought my car...it was all factory with 14,000 miles. I noticed when I went to add aftermarket wheels, and measured the difference. Then I was talking with my friend , who works at the Buick garage, I pointed it out. He said they received a service bulletin when the 86 cars were released, that said...
The front sheet metal on the intercooled cars was shifted to avoid the downpipe from burning the inner fender. On some cars it would be more noticeable then others because they had no assembly template to use. It was done by hand.
Some are way worse then others.


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[charlief1]

There has to be someone near you that would be willing to help you out. What's your location?

 

[Smokin' 6 Shooter]

There has to be someone near you that would be willing to help you out. What's your location?

I don't relish imposing on people's time but face-to-face instruction from a local G-body enthusiast would most certainly be welcome. I'm in Pasadena, California 91103 and, again, lunch would be on me.

Coach's post above on the factory-approved hand-modified front sheet metal is a telling tidbit - just not sure how to approach re-adjusting it (if that's my car's issue)...

 

[charlief1]

Not sure how close he is but PM spoolfool2 and I'm sure Mike will be able to tell you who's close to you.

 

[Smokin' 6 Shooter]

Not sure how close he is but PM spoolfool2 and I'm sure Mike will be able to tell you who's close to you.

Thanks for the suggestion. Took your advice and awaiting his reply...