Opinions on converting to Blow-thru. 83 Ttype

69RSCLONE

Active Member
Jul 13, 2014
342
35
28
Rochester NY
The sniper can control the timing and should work with the factory distributor. You can set the base, wot and cruise timing and change the map fairly easily. But, it has no knock sensor. So it's up to you to make the adjustments and carefully monitor knock.

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ShawnR

Fixer of crap..
Jan 24, 2011
163
15
18
Chesterville, OH, USA
.... So it's up to you to make the adjustments and carefully monitor knock.

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Yea, I tried that once a long time ago (like 1992) and blew a hole in my #3 piston. I need a knock sensor with whatever system I get.

I just shot off an email to FiTech asking if any of their systems could use a knock sensor. I would REALLY love to have a single system controlling everything if possible.
 

ShawnR

Fixer of crap..
Jan 24, 2011
163
15
18
Chesterville, OH, USA
My response from FiTech about adding a knock sensor to their system:

********************************************************************
Hi

an older HEI system can be converted to work with the FiTech for timing control. But require some modification and some fabrication. And MSD Pro billet distributor is a plug-and-play with our set up and is what most people use.

The FiTech systems do not have a knock sensor, but you will find a blow through set up is less temperamental anyway.

Anything else let me know

*******************************************************************

I don't think that MSI makes a distributor for a 3.8 (at least I couldn't find one). A stock distributor is easy to find & fairly cheap to play with. I did reply asking if he had any more detailed info about what needed to be converted on the HEI distributor. Maybe A knock sensor isn't really that important if I do all of the changed I am planning on;

EFI conversion (on some 4 bbl intake)
Blow through turbo & intercooler
water / alcohol injection
E85 & premium gas

The intake change should be plenty cold, and with the high octane mix & water injection, things should be good. I am probably only talking 15-18 lbs of boost.
Hell, I run 11 now with my draw through and don't have any detonation! I am running 110 octane though, and that get kinda pricey!
 

blacknight80

Member
Dec 26, 2013
534
23
18
Olds, Alberta
Yikes I don't think I would run a boosted engine regardless of the method without kr being monitored.
Knock knock? Who's there? Rod. Rod who? Bang.
I'd be worried my stupid joke would become a reality and I personally don't have the funds to build a motor right now. The j and s system may be worth it if your planning on pushing it. And let's all be honest with our selves one corvette or a Mustang and your gonna forget to be soft on er haha.
 

t-typinator

Active Member
Oct 8, 2010
886
46
28
Sharp looking car.
Why try to re-invent the wheel, Why not just convert over to a 86-87 type intercooled setup and have your choice of all the easily accessible,tried and true (not to mention powerful) mods at your disposal,along with having all the tons of data and info that is already built into this site ,to help with the build, and maintain and tune it afterwards.
 
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ShawnR

Fixer of crap..
Jan 24, 2011
163
15
18
Chesterville, OH, USA
Sharp looking car.
Why try to re-invent the wheel, Why not just convert over to a 86-87 type intercooled setup and have your choice of all the easily accessible,tried and true (not to mention powerful) mods at your disposal,along with having all the tons of data and info that is already built into this site ,to help with the build, and maintain and tune it afterwards.
Those engines (complete) are almost mythical in my area. Kind of like trying to find an 8.5 rear axle. If you do find one, they are always asking a stupid amount of $$ for a stock unit.
If I did find one, I would be spending at least $2k on a stock engine. Even a base refresh/rebuild is going to cost me at least $700 on top of that.

Current engine has less than 10k since I blew it up and rebuilt it (a long time ago) and runs fine. It is just boring and this seemed like an interesting exercise to make the most of what was there for a relatively cheap cost. I'm still hoping to stay around $2k total (EFI = $1100 & other shit = $900).
 

ShawnR

Fixer of crap..
Jan 24, 2011
163
15
18
Chesterville, OH, USA
Initial response from FiTech about using their EFI system to control an HEI distributor:

********************************************************************
Hi

an older HEI system can be converted to work with the FiTech for timing control. But require some modification and some fabrication. And MSD Pro billet distributor is a plug-and-play with our set up and is what most people use.

The FiTech systems do not have a knock sensor, but you will find a blow through set up is less temperamental anyway.

Anything else let me know


*******************************************************************
[/QUOTE]

So I asked for more documentation about the conversion on the distributor and got this response:

*******************************************************************
I hope this helps.

you will need to remove the vacuum advance, lockup the mechanical advance, set your engine to 10° before top dead center, align the rotor to number one cylinder and lock it down, then you will need to reposition your magnetic pickup to where the points line up.

You will need to determine the polarity of the two wires to match up to our system. Purple is the positive wire on our system.

*******************************************************************


So it looks like the FiTech will work to control ignition, but can't include a knock sensor in the mix.

My visions of a single system to run it all is seeming less likely. Still researching options.
 

ShawnR

Fixer of crap..
Jan 24, 2011
163
15
18
Chesterville, OH, USA
Look into Holley EFI. The dominator and maybe the terminator can support a knock sensor.
I did learn that the Terminator can (https://forums.holley.com/showthread.php?8208-Knock-Control) but the Sniper is too simple. It and the FiTech can utilize an external spark controller (e.g. MSI 6al) and I am pretty sure you can rig a knock sensor to work with that. Not positive, but I think so.

Both the Holley Dominator and Microsquirt are just out of the budget. $2000+

This is more of an exercise of how I can get the most power for the least $$$ (while keeping it a 3.8).

WarWagon, just in case you don't know it, most of this is your fault....https://www.turbobuick.com/threads/repeat-procedure.294806/
 

ITSAV6

It's my Granny's car!
Nov 13, 2001
2,147
136
63
Ocilla,Georgia
sogaturbobuicks.4t.com
The Microsquirt from Megasquirt is less than $400 and will do a lot of ignition types the Megasquirt2 less than $500
https://www.diyautotune.com/product/megasquirt-ii-ems-system-smd-pcb3-57-assembled-ecu/
Self tune feature, flex fuel, knock sensor, alky inj control, long list of features. Put a cam sensor and crank sensor and it will do coil on plug ign. We have the plug and play version on my friends 91 GT with a 70mm turbo and it works well.
 

ShawnR

Fixer of crap..
Jan 24, 2011
163
15
18
Chesterville, OH, USA
Just keep it simple.
Well, that was the plan, but it doesn't appear to be working.

I ditch the carb for EFI and the stock ECM gets no TPS signal, so it screws things up (timing & trans).
I use the ignition control that comes with the EFI and I don't have any knock sensor input.

Megasquirt has like 1000+ different products on their webpage so I shot off an email explaining the situation and asking for a specific suggestion.

J&S Safeguard and Micro/Megasquirt look the most promising at the moment. They would run an MSD box and should all work as a stand alone ignition system (using the knock sensor).

I just wasn't budgeting an extra $500-600 for electronics crap.

On to another option. It looks like megasquirt can control a factory manifold with injectors. What about ditching the carb/EFI thing and just upgrading to a factory EFI manifold from a factory fuel injected 3.8?

I would save the cost of the EFI unit itself and a manifold.
 

b4black

Well-Known Member
May 24, 2001
3,468
49
48
Aurora, IL
www.flash.net
You could go with out the knock retard, but still run a knock sensor with a gauge. You won't have the automatic timing retard protection, but it is better than nothing.

Use the factory knock sensor and ESC module. Then connect it to a gauge like Casper's electronic. The Casper's gauge is connected into the wire from the ESC module to before the ECM. Even if the ECM is not there, it will still alert.

http://www.casperselectronics.com/cart/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=3
 
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