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Original RPO Sticker Missing

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ICUturbo

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My Original RPO Sticker is missing, Can I get a replacement?
And if so... From where. Thanx in advance.
 
Does anyone have any further information in regards to this?? My car is also missing the RPO codes and I would like to figure out if getting the sticker ordered from somewhere is an option. Thanks!
 
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Hi, I know I’m new here but I’m not new to turbo Buick’s. I’m the original owner of an 87 WE4 and I also need a replacement rpo trunk sticker. I literally have every single document from the day I got my car to present day. I have the original window sticker, bill of sale, pre delivery inspection. Everything. I know a lot of people clone these cars and are looking for fake rpo sticker to pretend their car is a Grand National. But I’m not about that. This was literally my first car that my mom lent me the cash to buy and let me pay her off every month without interest back when I was 17. I still have the original title that says new and the window sticker vin matches all the hidden vin numbers as well as the vin in the windshield. And the window sticker is coded WE4. I rear ended back in 89 and the body shop replaced the trunk lid with some lame aftermarket crap. I didn’t understand about RPO codes till about a year ago.
The car has been garaged for the past 10 years. I just started putting some money into it. New gas tank, walbro 255 pump, new bumper fillers, I was lucky enough to find the original aluminum stock rims, so far I cleaned out the fuel lines and threw away (recycled) the old fuel tank. The undercarriage is clean. I just didn’t feel like cleaning out 10 year old fuel. And I started cleaning out the injectors while I wait for the tank and pump to be shipped. I was able to start the car with a spray of brake cleaner in the TB for a second. But I think I need to re pack my oil pump. I think it’s sucking air.
Anyway I apologize for the off topic ramble. But I would really like to purchase a re production copy of my original trunk RPO sticker. I also have the build and broadcast sheets and I know every single code that belongs there. I have no desire to sell this car. Ever. It’s all I have left from my mom. But I would like to restore it to car show condition. So I do plan to drop some money into this.

If anyone can help I’m willing to pay good money for this. And I’m not asking for anything illegal. My car is a genuine WE4. I know because i wanted a WE2 but all 27 thousand were sold out and all they had was a WE4 that a buyer backed out of.
Thanks and have a blessed day
 
I had seen an announcement a few months back that Kirban had a vendor that was licensed to reproduce the sticker, but (there’s always a but) you had to have the build sheet for the car AND the original RPO sticker in the trunk for them to make another. Very helpful for those that need current trunk lid repairs/replacement...not so helpful for those that have lost theirs over the years.

If you search around you should a thread or maybe it was posted on Kirbans Facebook page.
 
Search 'GM Media Archive' here on site for info - how to apply (pay for) the details for your car. Last I heard it was $50. At that point you will then be ready to get an RPO sticker when they finally become available for purchase from KirbanPerformance or whoever has them. I'd bet on Kirban (subscribe to his newsletter).
Bob
 
Thanks, yes I have the build sheet. I’m ready. I have absolutely everything made of paper that came with that car. I still have the book that tells you what radio stations broadcast is what city and start you are in. It’s hilarious lol.

Btw in my first post I meant to say the car was garage for 20 years (not 10) at my sisters house in ny. I just had it shipped to me in Florida last week. Sorry about that mistake. I hit the wrong key I guess
 
Kirban's InnerCircle today noted ECS is now ready to make a reproduction SPID label for late production '86 models and '87 turbo buicks that used SPID label blank part # 14085266.

HOWEVER, a photo of your original SPID label must be submitted. If you are missing the SPID label, you are not getting one through ECS. There is no way to guarantee the authenticity of the RPO codes or the sequential build # without having an image of the original sticker. full details below:

From Kirban's InnerCircle newsletter today:

UPDATE ON REPRODUCTION SPID DECALS -

ECS Automotive has recently sent us a reproduction of the 1987 SPID decal GM #14085266. I am happy to report the reproduction is dead on correct. Like all their products this is GM licensed. The price will be $60 plus $7 Priority Mail. The turn-around time is about 10 days. This is only for the GM #14085266. The earlier SPID decal GM #14065987 is not available yet. You must have a readable copy of your original to get one of these reproduced by ECS Automotive. Email - Christina@kirbanperformance.com your scanned original if you want one reproduced. Next week we will show a photo of an original alongside the new reproduction that ECS Automotive sent us. We had them reproduce one from a SPID decal I removed from a junker.


Back in March'18, I posted a lot of info on the SPID labels and RPO codes for anyone trying to figure out what codes would be on the SPID label. See it here: https://turbobuick.com/threads/rpo-decal-specifics.457349/

That info could then be used to make a data table for yourself. Unfortunately, it will not get you a replacement SPID label.
 
Damn that sucks I literally am the original owner of my WE4 and it even says WE4 on my window sticker. Damn body shop really screwed me in 89 by replacing my trunk without giving me that sticker. I literally have everything that was ever put on paper for my car. Even the broadcast sheet. Oh well as long as I know I bought a WE4 I guess I got nothing to prove.
 
87WE4,
With all the documentation you have, e mail christine or Dennis Kirban, and I'm sure that they will be able to get you one with documentation, great people to work with if you haven't yet.
 
oh man Reapersgbodys,
That would be so awesome. I Was going through my car last night because I had to remove the entire fuel tank, pump, and old fuel filter. Because I have a new tank coming today via ups and I received my Walbro 255, adaptor kit, and Hotwire kit all yesterday so last night it was important to me to drop the tank in preparation of tonight which hopefully will include starting the car for the very first time since 1998 (aside from starting it for 5 seconds on starting fluid). I cleaned the injectors and fuel rail as best as I could. I blew compressed air in the feed and return lines so all I can do is hope for the best.
I’m a little concerned that I ran the car for about 5 seconds and when I looked in the oil fill hole the top of the head was bone dry as soon as I saw that I stopped messing with cranking it. I ordered an oil pump gasket at Advance Auto parts that should be there today. I figured my oil pump might be sucking air because of the 20 year nap it took. So tonight’s work is to restore the entire fuel system, change the oil, hook up my oil pressure test gauge and see if I actually have oil pressure and how it’s running after 20 yesrs of rest.

But OMG I’m sorry I’m getting off the topic again. My mom who is the only reason why I was able to buy this car in the first place passed on June 4,1997 unexpectedly and on June 7,2018 my wife found my mother in law unresponsive when she went there to check why she didn’t answer her phone. Long story short massive brain bleed deep inside her brain. Emergency surgery, cut into her skull, she was doing well but now caught MERSA infection because she spent so much time intubated on a respirator so she’s at the point where she can turn in either direction. So needless to say I’m in this depressed/stress situation and that car is literally the only thing I have from my mother. So I really want to fix it.
So anyway after visiting my mother in law I started working on the car and I finished removing the gas tank and fuel sending unit which was the only part i actually needed really fast so I figured I’d see why my window wouldn’t go down. So I took off the door inner panel and there was another document which turned out the be the broadcast sheet I believe.
If anyone knows this gentleman personally can you please put in a good word for me. Here’s my proof. The way I figure
1) the original (not a copy) window sticker has the WE4 option listed as the 13tg option from the top the cost for that option is 3,295.00 as it appears right on my window sticker with a bunch of other options.
2) the vin number on that window sticker matches the vin on my dashboard peaking out of the windshield. As well as the vin number that’s punched into the drivers side of the body under the door sill.
3) the broadcast sheet shows lists my win number as well as the body number that’s on the body tag/plate under the hood near the wiper motor.
4) Plus I have everything that came with the car paperwork wise.

Honestly if I don’t get the sticker my life won’t stop because I know what it really is. But anyone please explain to me how I could forge all those original documents. And why would I go through all that trouble? It’s only a WE4. It’s not like it’s some kind of GNX.
Once again I apologize for my long story. I’m just trying to paint the picture of why this would mean a lot to me. I will email them Monday. Maybe I can convince them.
Have a great weekend everyone
 
I would unplug the orange ECM wire and crank it for a bit to hopefully build some oil pressure before just letting her run, something I do at every oil change, just my .02
 
Do you think I should risk cranking anymore and just repack the oil pump and prime it with a drill? I bought a distributor years ago from an old 231 engine that I pulled the cam gear off and gutted out because my regular Grand National was sucking air when I first got it and I packed the oil pump with petroleum jelly. But 10 seconds after I cranked the car I started seeing oil pressure on my gauge (this is another car I’m talking about). So I never got to use my fabricated tool. But whatever you think I should do I’ll do. Just understand my WE4 is bone stock. No oil pressure gauge or anything. I have an oil pressure tool/gauge.
I stopped driving it before all that scanmaster,alky, and the rest of the technology that our cars need to survive came out. I have it all on my Grand National but the WE4 is like it came from the dealer. The only mod I believe I have is my WE4 rims are powder coated jet black because I wanted that car all black on the exterior. But in time I will get all the necessary mods. They will just be hidden.
 
If you have the ability to pack the pump with Petroleum jelly, and reprise, I would, especially if the motor has not been run in quite a while.
It jus a bit of safe insurance to not run the cam when it’s dry.
 
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