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ZNix

Young-Gun
Joined
Jun 17, 2009
Messages
2,410
I have been trying hard to find a full overhaul kit for my 84 Grand National that includes all new bearings, gaskets, rings, etc etc. Does anyone know where I can find one? If not, where can I find just a gasket kit? Bearings and such are easy to find and buy, but gaskets are difficult.. I don't want to start building and be missing some.

Thanks
Zack
 
Rockauto.com has most everything you need, and is about as cheap as you can get for name brand parts:

1984 BUICK REGAL GRAND NATIONAL 3.8L 231cid V6 FI Turbo (9) OHV : Engine : Engine Kit Gasket Set

FEL-PRO Part # FS8723PT5 FULL SETS (FS) are for upper and lower engine work combined, usually a complete overhaul.
14 bolt oil pan; Int. manifold gskt., turbo mounting gskts., exh. pipe packing not incl.; Premium valve stem seals incl. $59.79

SEALED POWER Part # 2601149
Gasket Kit; 14 bolt oil pan; Int. manifold gskt. not incl.; Turbo mtg. gskts. not incl.; Premium valve stem seals incl. $79.79


EDIT: You will have to buy gasket set, pistons & pins, rings, bearings, etc separate though. I know PAW used to sell full kits, but they stopped selling everything but hemi parts. Summit may sell a full engine kit.
 
Zack for what your wanting strip the engine clean everything up mark the pistons rods and caps so that you and know where they came from then drop it all off at the shop to get it cleaned and honed and have them check all your clearances. you can get a gasket kit if you want and drop it off but you will find other then the rear, front ,oil pan and head gaskets most shops just use tuff stuff. Let the shop get your bearings and rings you won’t save that much money getting it yourself. This way if for some reason you have to turn a crank you don’t have to buy parts twice.
I know I’ve seen you say you want to assemble it but it is probably worth spending the extra money to have them assemble the short block for you. Talk to the machine shop that is going to do your work and you will find it may not be that much to do it this way. When I dropped my engine off it was this way I gave him the gasket kit I had from FT my cam kit and the ARP head and main studs I had. I let him get the rings and bearings, 2 weeks later I picked my assembled engine up and paid the man $1350 this also included a valve job and he cleaned the heads up not a full port job just cleaned them up some.
I then brought it home and gave it the once over to check out his work everything looked good. If you have someone that can help you assemble it then do it yourself but if not I would say have the shop assemble at least the short block and then put the heads and cam in yourself,
 
Hey Z, you interested in a complete engine and intercooler setup? I can hand you one for $3k firm (not my engine:wink:). If you want the tranny as well it would be $3500.
 
Zack for what your wanting strip the engine clean everything up mark the pistons rods and caps so that you and know where they came from then drop it all off at the shop to get it cleaned and honed and have them check all your clearances. you can get a gasket kit if you want and drop it off but you will find other then the rear, front ,oil pan and head gaskets most shops just use tuff stuff. Let the shop get your bearings and rings you won’t save that much money getting it yourself. This way if for some reason you have to turn a crank you don’t have to buy parts twice.
I know I’ve seen you say you want to assemble it but it is probably worth spending the extra money to have them assemble the short block for you. Talk to the machine shop that is going to do your work and you will find it may not be that much to do it this way. When I dropped my engine off it was this way I gave him the gasket kit I had from FT my cam kit and the ARP head and main studs I had. I let him get the rings and bearings, 2 weeks later I picked my assembled engine up and paid the man $1350 this also included a valve job and he cleaned the heads up not a full port job just cleaned them up some.
I then brought it home and gave it the once over to check out his work everything looked good. If you have someone that can help you assemble it then do it yourself but if not I would say have the shop assemble at least the short block and then put the heads and cam in yourself,

1350 for the assembled short block? That's not a bad deal. So they did all bearings, freeze plugs, assembled it, and even did a little head work? Hmm, I still haven't found an engine shop around here. I will find one and see if they can give me an estimate. But anything over 1800 or so and I have to do it myself. I have a budget I need to stick too. I would still need a gasket kit however. So if anyone has an idea for one of those lmk.
 
Hey Z, you interested in a complete engine and intercooler setup? I can hand you one for $3k firm (not my engine:wink:). If you want the tranny as well it would be $3500.

Thanks Pronto. I was thinking I would stay Hot Air. I really do not need a fast car. If I can get this thing in the mid 12's, I will be a very happy camper.
 
Wouldn't be a question "if" with this engine....
 
Lol Pronto, nah I think I want to stick with the hot air set-up. Its really unique, and has plenty of power for me.
 
1350 for the assembled short block? That's not a bad deal. So they did all bearings, freeze plugs, assembled it, and even did a little head work? Hmm, I still haven't found an engine shop around here. I will find one and see if they can give me an estimate. But anything over 1800 or so and I have to do it myself. I have a budget I need to stick too. I would still need a gasket kit however. So if anyone has an idea for one of those lmk.

Be careful with the shops that don't know turbo buicks. These motors don't like the traditional clearances that a small block chevy does. If you take it to one, do your research on here first and take them a list of what you need your clearances to be. Too many times I have seen guys take their motors to run of the mill places and trust them, only to have low oil pressure or worse. Depending on what is wrong with yours, you may be able to get away with a crank polish, run a .001 bearing on rods and mains, maybe even a hone and ring job. I would bore and hone it, use new pistons, polish the crank and use .001's, get new gasket set, have the heads reconditioned with 100lb springs, new cam like a 204/214 hydraulic, etc. Could be a low budget build, while still meeting your goals and not killing your wallet.
 
I want to go with a roller cam for reliability and not having the pain of using ZDDP all the time. I look at it as insurance to keep the motor on the road. I will call a few places around to see what prices are like, and I know there is source around here that gives all the tolerances. So if someone knows that link, ill print it out and give it to them.
 
I was going to add in the last post I bought the gasket kit from FT and only used the head and oil pan gasket from it. the engine builder used right stuff to seal most every thing up. I tihnk FT, g-body kerbans all have a gasket kit listed on there sites. The guy that did my engine is a Buick guy does them all the time . All the guys that race in Bristol use him so I was lucky in that area. I dont thing you will have much of a problem as long as there not boring it out adding a grildel or bilet caps or somthing.
there is a good build thread in the engine section I think title was stock rebuild part 2 you should check it out. Cant remeber whos build it was but it had some good info in it.
 
1350 for the assembled short block? That's not a bad deal. So they did all bearings, freeze plugs, assembled it, and even did a little head work? Hmm, I still haven't found an engine shop around here. I will find one and see if they can give me an estimate. But anything over 1800 or so and I have to do it myself. I have a budget I need to stick too. I would still need a gasket kit however. So if anyone has an idea for one of those lmk.

I bought my GN last year in Halifax. The previous owner had the engine done at Dave's Auto Machine
in Fitchburg, MA. I never delt with them but the motor has held up pretty well for me.
 
I want to go with a roller cam for reliability and not having the pain of using ZDDP all the time. I look at it as insurance to keep the motor on the road. I will call a few places around to see what prices are like, and I know there is source around here that gives all the tolerances. So if someone knows that link, ill print it out and give it to them.

Good plan with the roller, should help with durability, driveability, and power all together. Didn't mention it because if you are on a tight budget, $900-$1,000 might eat that up if you go new. They are usually around $800ish, but either one is missing pushrods or one is missing a timing set, so it is about even. Full Throttle, Cottons, etc all have real good setups. If need be to keep costs down, pick up a used roller setup. Mileage on a roller really is insignificant, as long as the motor didn't eat a bearing or something. There have been some really good deals in the parts for sale section, to include roller cams.
 
Yea, I figured it all into the budget. I have separate budgets for short block/valve train/ fuel system, etc etc. Ill take a look in the for sale section! Thanks.
 
Be careful with the shops that don't know turbo buicks. These motors don't like the traditional clearances that a small block chevy does. If you take it to one, do your research on here first and take them a list of what you need your clearances to be. Too many times I have seen guys take their motors to run of the mill places and trust them, only to have low oil pressure or worse. Depending on what is wrong with yours, you may be able to get away with a crank polish, run a .001 bearing on rods and mains, maybe even a hone and ring job. I would bore and hone it, use new pistons, polish the crank and use .001's, get new gasket set, have the heads reconditioned with 100lb springs, new cam like a 204/214 hydraulic, etc. Could be a low budget build, while still meeting your goals and not killing your wallet.

And this is why we check clearances before we assemble! ANyhoo, here's a link to a complete kit minus intake gasket. I highly suggest you drop your heads off and get a valve job, new guides, and a little cleanup in the bowl area. You can delete whatever you want out of the master kit. I bought mine minus cam and put in a 204/214. Feels like its a slight bit turd down low but it seems to like to be wound out a bit past stock shift point

http://www.northernautoparts.com/Products.cfm?CategoryId=76 If you don't see what you need, they usually have it or can get it. I have one of these distributors in my town so I don't have much experience buying from their web page.
 
Heads will be done. The left side needs to be done due to bad valves. Thanks Boost! Those kits are more options for me!
 
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