People said these GN's are finicky-scanmaster readings inside

D

Dhos1

Self-tuning wanna-be
Joined
Apr 14, 2012
I just changed to a LT1 MAF w/ a 60# injector and chip street package from TT. Fired it up Sunday and she ran great out the box w/ no adjustments. Today I went to clean up the engine bay a bit and mount my Translator plus in the bay-fire it up, and holy hell, it sounded like marbles all over the place about 15 seconds into start up...sound is very tinny-plus, the SES light came on, and the Power Injection light came on(I thought it was not used...based on the issues I am having I guess the individual before me wired it up to sense some sort of knock issue????) Now, I swapped BACK to the original configuration, which is the original MAF and ran it and here are readings...mind you-they were fluctuating a bit but this was the general range.
398
KR 0??? (I don't understand this)
AF 06
L8 44
BAT 13.2
INT 128
BL 118
MPH 0
CLT 142
ATS 87
R 825
TPS .42
IAC 72
CC 78
NAL 34
Fuel pressure was solid at 45psi

I didn't take reading with the Translator plus installed...I just wanted to shut it down as it sounded horrible. I've looked through the scan master codes, but what seems wrong here to anybody? FYI my translator is set up properly from what I gather at on, on, on, off. Also base is 2, MAF is at 0, and spark is at 0,0. Also, I did not adjust the parameters of the TT chip when I installed it. Under programmable features, it says "YOU DO NOT HAVE TO ADJUST THESE", so I did not. I don't understand-it ran fine a few days ago it seemed, now...I'm afraid to crank it.
 
Take it for a short drive..142 temps is just warming up... Let the computer learn abit
 
I'm at work now, but I will switch back to the Translator set-up tonight and take it for a short drive as suggested. I just don't get the whole "it drove fine thing" before...now it sounds like ish...are my IAC's a bit high do you think?
 
I was also doing a bit of research, the BASE in the translator should be at 3 for a 3" sensor BASE V6 Turbo...I had it at 2. I will try that and see how it goes.
 
You mentioned too that your fuel pressure was solid at 45. It should be set to 43 with the vacuum line off and then when you reattach the hose it will drop to 37-38. This should help your BL as they are bit low. If it a new regulator, check on it from time to time if it is not hood mounted.
PM Eric at TT and have him take a look. Guy is a genius. If you drove it once and then have problems on the 2nd startup it may be the chip learning and open/closed loop going on. Remember to reset the ECM after any adjustments in the Translator.
 
VtheGNMan said:
You mentioned too that your fuel pressure was solid at 45. It should be set to 43 with the vacuum line off and then when you reattach the hose it will drop to 37-38. This should help your BL as they are bit low. If it a new regulator, check on it from time to time if it is not hood mounted.
PM Eric at TT and have him take a look. Guy is a genius. If you drove it once and then have problems on the 2nd startup it may be the chip learning and open/closed loop going on. Remember to reset the ECM after any adjustments in the Translator.
Click to expand...

You shouldn't need to reset the chip just from changing translator settings.

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
 
Mateo, I wouldn't think a reset necessary either, its just what Eric told me when I had him help me. Here's what he said:
"When the BLM is a little low, you can set the MAF Base knob to the richer setting, which is "1", then reset the ECM to let the BLM relearn. See if it gets a little closer to 128".
I guess unless you have messed with adding fuel or timing on his chip, no harm resetting.

DHOS1: I do have a different MAF being the LS1, 3 1/2" so these setting may not be right for you. Again, Eric would give you a suggestion specific to your chip and set up.
 
I got a joke for everyone here: KNOCK, KNOCK-who's there? Newbie. Newbie who? The newbie who's Translator settings were wrong. It was set on 2 for Base, which is for a 3.5 LTI, instead of 3 which is for a 3" LTI MAF... which would explain the MAF low signal. Bane cranked right up (yeah, BANE...my daughter is a huge batman fan and liked it when Bane beat the **** out of Batman in the last movie) so she named it BANE. Lesson learned...read,read, and read somemore.

Thanks all.
 
Don't worry about it, we are a in a constant state of learning. Just glad you got it sorted out that quickly and easily!
 
Dhos1 said:
I got a joke for everyone here: KNOCK, KNOCK-who's there? Newbie. Newbie who? The newbie who's Translator settings were wrong. It was set on 2 for Base, which is for a 3.5 LTI, instead of 3 which is for a 3" LTI MAF... which would explain the MAF low signal. Bane cranked right up (yeah, BANE...my daughter is a huge batman fan and liked it when Bane beat the **** out of Batman in the last movie) so she named it BANE. Lesson learned...read,read, and read somemore.

Thanks all.
Click to expand...


Trust me... I don't know what it is about the translator but people get those settings wrong ALL the time. It has to be something magical because it's not that hard to adjust! :D
 
Actually, it is the best lesson!!! As a matter of fact-I am glad I made that mistake. It forced me to sit down and read the sticker that tells you where to place the switches. I did a search and heard 2,3 and arbitrarily went with the 2 because I didn't pay attention to the combo that I have. And I was too lazy before to actually read my scanmaster readings.but when introuble I actually posted and read the descriptions as far as what they mean. I'm getting there..
 
Double check the fuel pressure, 45 is a little high. Listen to where it idles the smoothest. Mine likes 41psi with the line off, but your results may vary.

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
 
I don't ever suggest tech advise on this site. However I couldn't pass this one up. I noticed next to KR 0 you wrote you didn't understand this. KR is Knock retard, search the site and learn what KR is all about. It's probably one of the most important numbers on the scanmaster. You always want it to report "0" Ok, I'm going back to my hole.
 
Thanks for the advice C-5. I knew what it stood for AND understand it. I was referring to the fact that it sounded like I was getting knock but no number was showing.
 
Dhos1 said:
Actually, it is the best lesson!!! As a matter of fact-I am glad I made that mistake. It forced me to sit down and read the sticker that tells you where to place the switches. I did a search and heard 2,3 and arbitrarily went with the 2 because I didn't pay attention to the combo that I have. And I was too lazy before to actually read my scanmaster readings.but when introuble I actually posted and read the descriptions as far as what they mean. I'm getting there..
Click to expand...


An ass whipping is the best way to retain knowledge, that's for sure! :)
 
Dhos1 said:
Thanks for the advice C-5. I knew what it stood for AND understand it. I was referring to the fact that it sounded like I was getting knock but no number was showing.
Click to expand...


Now that is scary sounding.

Let's say you have a problem with the knock circuit and it's not reporting KR.... next thing you know... KERSPLODY!!!.

The one think diagnostic tools never mention is when you cannot trust your tools.


It might not be a bad idea to trigger some false knock and make sure the ESC circuit is working.
 
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