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poppy1440

Active Member
Joined
Mar 1, 2009
Messages
458
I thought map was going out so I swapped out to a factory one my buddy had not sure if its good or not. I'm going to order a translator and Lt1

How do these numbers look. Also the alchohol wasn't spraying and Julio is helping with this

Thanks
 
files didn't upload

I am trying to upload pl files and I keep getting this error message. "Invalid File"

I went back to pl and viewed the file and I can view it. The procedure I used was.


1. clicked on attachment tab
2. clicked on browse
3. found the file which is a .dat file
4. click upload

then I get invalid file message
what am I doing wrong
 
I'm sorry,

The car seems to be rumning extremely rich. At idle the exhaust smells like I'm running race fuel but I not.

If I drive the car with the alky off it drives pretty good until I get up to about 70mph.

If I turn the alky on 6 like I always have, the car stumbles very bad it won't even hardly move. I talked to Julio and he told me to check my ground at the map sensor, because apparently the alky was coming on because system was loosing it's ground. Well I got that fixed but now alky won't spray.

But the main reason I am asking ya'll to look at these files is to take a look to see if the maf sensor is going out. The sensor is a factory unit I borrowed from a local fellow. I'm not sure if it is good or not because it came off his parts car, but the car is acting exactly the same as it did with my maf.

Confused yet.

Thanks
 
Your MAF reading is VERY high for idle. Unless you're running a TT chip, then your readings are OK

Never mind, I see you're running a TT chip.

I see nothing out of the ordinary in these files.

Except your narrowband O2 sesnor is reading high, and not crosscounting during idle and cruise, but seems to be correctly during WOT. I would be suspicious of the O2 sensor.

It appears you are running a wideband O2? If so, what type?
 
A few oddities that I saw:

It looks like you were pretty timid with the TPS.
You can also see that right at 2800 rpm, your chip went into PowerEnrichment P/E and the narrow band O2 responded accordingly, as did the Wideband.

But prior to that, during cruise, you can see the narrowband was behaving totally wrong, but you were in open loop full time.
 

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Its a Plx wideband.

Turbo Dave I'm sorry but I have no idea about what you are refering to. What do you think might be going on?

Thanks
 
I did not go wot because the alky wasn't spraying and I didn't want to take a chance.
 
My point is that your narrowband O2 sensor just doesn't seem to be working correctly at all.
 
My point is that your narrowband O2 sensor just doesn't seem to be working correctly at all.

x2

Theodore did you check your crosscounts on the scanmaster after it goes into closed loop like I suggested the other night?
 
new pl please take a look

Just A follow up. I installed translator with lt1 maf, installed new o2. Tomorrow I will try to resolve the wb ground issue. Now I'm ready to start learning how to tune. I will be following Julios' procedure but I have a couple of questions first.

1. Why does the boost read negative values until car goes into power enrichment although the car is under boost. Unless I'm reading the recorded data wrong.

2. Why does the park/neutral have a check in it when the car is moving. If I'm thinking right this might be a column issue or shift linkage issue.



Would ya'll please take a look at attached file and give me some ideas of where ya'll would start making your changes if ya'll were tuning for the first time.

Thanks in advance
 
Just A follow up. I installed translator with lt1 maf, installed new o2. Tomorrow I will try to resolve the wb ground issue. Now I'm ready to start learning how to tune. I will be following Julios' procedure but I have a couple of questions first.

1. Why does the boost read negative values until car goes into power enrichment although the car is under boost. Unless I'm reading the recorded data wrong.

2. Why does the park/neutral have a check in it when the car is moving. If I'm thinking right this might be a column issue or shift linkage issue.



Would ya'll please take a look at attached file and give me some ideas of where ya'll would start making your changes if ya'll were tuning for the first time.

Thanks in advance


1. Because of the way the ECM is calibrated P/E just so happens to occur about the time the manifold goes from vacuum to boost.

2. Because your linkage needs adjustment.
 
Here is the file

For street applications is there really a benefit in fine tuning.
I guess my question should be since I don't go to track much would it be better to just run the safe fuel and timing programmed in the chip. Will this make a big difference on the street without affecting drivabilty

thanks
 

Attachments

I'm not sure I completely understand what you're asking. But in looking over your file, I see nothing really wrong. I assume you're running alky and if so, your air fuel ratio, boost and tiiming all look fine.

Only one minor detail is to get your shift linkage adjusted properly so the p/n switch shows properly.
 
I'm sorry,


What I'm asking is lets say I run across a little mustang or camaro and they push my buttons the wrong way and I decide to run one of them and I beat them by 1 car lenght and I go into the chip and tune leaving boost alone and with the same exact car and conditions will I beat the car by 2 or 3 car lengths. Basically is it worth messing with on a car that is raced very little.

Confused yet::::::::::::::::::::::::::::
 
Based on what I see, and assuming your car is running to your satisfaction, I'd leave well enough alone for now.

As time passes and you gain knowledge and experience, then little tweaks here and there might be worth looking at. BUT....don't be a big hurry to start messing with things.
 
kinda what I was thinking. But I've had the car a couple of years and wanted to start learning to tune
 
In that case there's a couple small areas to look at. Your air fuel ratio isn't' bad (at 11.7ish), but you could try going slightly leaner, to something closer to 11.9...

Your timing scheme looks good.

You could try raising your boost a pound at a time, yours seems fairly stable at around 21 (except it climbed a little at the 2-3 shift).

All this until you just start tickling the knock sensor, then back off a tad, or add a little more alky.
 
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