Pops when I foor it?


May 25, 2001
Going to work last night I punched the gas a little bit at about 20 mph on the usual stretch of road just after comming to a stop. The engine fell flat & quietly popped then resumed acceleration. I let off & everything seemed ok. I tried mashing the peddal again & the same thing happen's. This has never happened before but I have only been driving the car a few weeks & it does have an exhaust leak on the pass. side manifold. Still, this is a first.
On the way home this morning I tried mashing the pedal from a standstill. It immediately popped a few times & stumbled then took off. I then tried a power brake launch. It powerbraked fine but stumbled terribly when I got off the brake & mashed the pedal then it accelerated fine to a yellow boost light when I let off. I played around a little more & found out that it will accelerate & make boost fine if I ease into it insead of stomping the pedal all at once. It also seems like if I have the RPM's up THEN mash it everything is normal. Going down the road at about the point that I start to hear the turbo whistle(sorry, no boost guage on this one yet) & mash it is when it seems to be the worst(besides the powerbrake). I know that in the other 'T I can powerbrake right to the point of 0lbs. of boost & that's also about the time I start to hear that wonderful whistling noise. What I am trying to say is that it SEEMS to be doing this at or around the point of spool up. The only other thing that was out of the norm. was that when I started it this morning, I couldn't kick the choke down with the gas pedal like I always do before I take off. It was unusually cool this morning tho. That's probably why the choke stayed on. It did seem to go off after a few blocks.

I haven't checked nothing yet. I'm going to start with the timing. Then look for disconnected vac. line's. Any other suggestions:confused:
It kind of feels like the timing isn't advancing:confused:
Confirm that the ESC is working right.

Check the secondaries' air horn to make sure they open easily.

I quessing that it's possibly a carb problem. I would ask somebody if you could borrow their '83 TR's carb (if you happen to know anybody with a '83 TR ;) ). Swap them and see what happens.

I've found that a spare carb (even if it's not in perfect condition) is a great diagnostic tool.
I haven't checked the ESC yet, thanx for reminding me:)

I just checked the secondary air horn. It did NOT open easilly.
I also found a vac. hose that was cracked & leaking. I fixed the hose but that wasn't the (main) problem. I think your onto something with the carb. It is pretty dirty looking, even inside the barrel walls. There is actually some black oily stuff running down the outside right rear side of it. When we bought it there was no valve cover breather at all, they were capped off. Could this have something to do with the oily gunk on the carb. or do ya think that's just gunked up gassoline?
It also slowly changes idle speed every 5-10 sec. It kind of "pulses". Now I've also found out it is popping in "PARK" if I floor it too fast.

Now I wonder who I could borrow a crab. from:confused:

HEY TONYA, can I borrow your's? I'll be good to it I swear:D

Thank's for your help.
Your PVC more than likely needs to be replaced as well. That's were the black oil is coming from on the right rear of the carb. If you are going to pull the carb replace it at that time. If not I hope that you have small hands :D
Originally posted by Ttype83
Your PVC more than likely needs to be replaced as well. That's were the black oil is coming from on the right rear of the carb

Thanx for the heads up. :)

Anything else I'm gonna need besides a carb. gasket?
Also, how much more work is it to remove the carb. intake while I'm there & fix that darn leaky vc?

I think I'll try the carb. off my 305 wagon. I know it's not right for the V6 but it should let me know If my carb. is the problem.
The carb's easy (if the fuel line cooperates).

I think the plenum (upper intake) would be difficult to remove seperately from the turbo. Pulling the Turbo/Plenum assembly is fairly big job. The wiring, vacuum and air pump lines are in the way.

If you decide to remove the complete trubo, let me know. I have some suggestions to do while it's off. (Releif valve, re-routeing lines, etc).
Originally posted by b4black
The carb's easy (if the fuel line cooperates).

Careful not to bend the fuel line when you take it off.

If you decide to remove the complete trubo, let me know. I have some suggestions to do while it's off. (Releif valve, re-routeing lines, etc). [/B]

B4Black, I'm intested in your suggestions, are you going to post it on your web site?

Turbo Rich, while you have the carb off replace all the little vac lines behind the carb. I have a spare carb that you can borrow, but not sure when I could ship it. No FedX or UPS allowed on base right now. I can still ship US snail mail :D Let me know.
My '83 Turbo Carb did not have the MAPS sensor port. So you'll have find the vacuum line from the MAPS sensor on you turbo car and attach it to the MAPS sensor port on the 305 Q-Jet. Also, You'll have to plug the rear vac line that attaches to the brake booster on the 305 Q-jet.
Originally posted by b4black

If you decide to remove the complete trubo, let me know. I have some suggestions to do while it's off. (Releif valve, re-routeing lines, etc).

Well, I'm not quite ready to remove the complete turbo unit YET but I am interrested in your suggestions, it would be nice to have a good plan of attack & clean things up some while I'm there;) The turbo is most definitely is going to have to come off sometime though. The wrong vc's are on the car(I have the right one's) & they have no room for a breather. The hole's are exactly in the middle & uderneath everything, you can hardly add oil:( Also the exhaust manifold gasket is leaking or the header is cracked (or both:eek: ) on the turbo side. I was told when we bought it that the gasket was blown but now that I get a real close look at it I swear I see a weld build up on one of the pipe's. He included a second set of header's that he say's are the origional's that have A LOT of weld build up on them. So I'm betting that I'll need a new set of header's. That was the first thing I was gonna buy but now it looks like maybe I might need some carb. work too. I'll prob. try to get it running straight first THEN dive into the header/valve cover problem. I don't wan't to tear everything apart while it's sick & end up with a miilion thing's to diagnose if I get it back together & it doesn't run right.
One more thing. The smog equipement is not conneted & the pump is shot. Do you think I'd be better off doing away with it totally when I tear it down or do ya think I'd be better off fixing/hooking everything back up. I'd hate to think I actually fixed up my emission's, especially since I've 86'd soo many of them in the past:p but I thought I remembered someone saying these car's ran better with them on?
Also, if my carb. is shot, how hard do you all think it would be to get a Holley to run right on these car's? Like a 390cfm DP or a 570cfm Avenger. And still be able to take advantage of my ESC? I mainly want to be able to still use the knock detecter & aftermarket guage (for safety sake).
I know Fred is running a 650cfm but I know his ignition is diff. than mine.

Freddie's Buick, Thank's for the warning on the MAPS sensor port.:D
I don't think I'll have to worry about the rear vac. line on it tho, it's an '84 & has the hydroboost brake/power steering system like our car's. I might just take Ttype83 up on his offer, that was awful nice of him:cool: I',m not going to be able to get to it right away anyway. I'm deep in the middle of pullin' a motor out of van(don't ask:rolleyes: ) & next weekend is the STREET CAR STOOTOUT final's in Atlanta that me & Tonya's going to. Mybe if I twist her arm hard enough she will run her '83 in the bracket's Sat. night. Of course we'd have to take out the cooler first:p
Well, today the "pop" is magically gone. Ta~Da!:eek:
If only it were that easy,lol. The only thing I did to it was clean the carb. good with some cleaner & check the timming & wire's etc. I really doubt that was what fixed my problem. I did drive it right after cleaning it & it was still popping. It's just not doing it today. Not that I'm complaining, I like magic as much as the next guy. Or maybe you guy's are just soo good you fixed it online;)
I'm sure the prob. isn't gone, just gone for now. We'll see tomarrow~eh.

Before going nut's trying to fix it. Try the easy simple things first.

When was the last tune up? How old are the spark plug's?

The older Q-jets (if they have not been rebuilt recently) the accelerator pump plunger wears out. This can be changed.

Also when you do a tune up , If the car has them ,check mech & vacuum advance check them for prober operation.

Check the simple thing's first. :)
(pardon the spelling , I need spell check :) ).
Yeah man....

What's up with the spell check Rich? When this forum first started up after the crash it had spell check. Not anymore.... :confused: ? Now we're all depending on our grade school/college eduction we had a millinium ago. Too bad..... :(
Spell check was something they added right before the crash. After the crash, they went to the new software and it's gone. I miss it too. :(
Car started acting up again. It doesn't seem as bad when it's good & warmed up tho. Also, it isn't doing this only at spool up, it's pretty much anytime I give it too much gas. I've found even more broken vac. lines. I think I need to just go ahead & change the headers before doing too much. I KNOW they're broken. Tonya is calling the car "ticker" :eek:
(not funny!, lol) because of how it sounds. I can then replace all the vac. lines, install my guages (VDO set on the way) & whatever else you all can think of to take care of at this time. I'm gonna start looking for a set of headers. I've seen Poston's are $500 OUCH!

Originally posted by Turbo-Rich
The only other thing that was out of the norm. was that when I started it this morning, I couldn't kick the choke down with the gas pedal like I always do before I take off.

I visually checked & it's not the choke idling the eng. up. Choke was wide open & eng. still idling too high at start.

It kind of feels like the timing isn't advancing:confused:

I think I should check the vac. advance like fc227 said. Can someone run me down the proceedure on doing this? It's been a really long time:eek: I think I remember something about sucking on the vac. cannister line, LOL.
You shouldn't have a vacuum advance. It's all done by the ECM.

Electronic Spark Timing, EST.
I shoulda known that:eek:
I guess I was hopin' it was what I was more familiar with.
Can the EST even be checked?
I do have an extra ECM but no idea how to change them.

It looks like I might be in luck finding a good deal on a set of headers . I also have a spare turbo on the way & both intakes (thnx '83 T) that I would like to mildy port before I tear everything apart to do the headers.