Powerlogger File Review Please

[Tyler Stipe]

I'll try to be as brief as possible.

Just bought this car a few months ago, the drivers head gasket ended up chirping and getting worse (pretty sure it was on its way out when I got the car), I replaced the head gaskets, the intake air temp sensor was bad, but I didnt realize it right away, drove the car, WOT a couple times and got some high knock retard on the Scanmaster G, replaced the sensor in the intake tube, ran fine, hit WOT once, seemed alright, hit it again, and BAM, white cloud of smoke from under the car, the #2 cylinder head gasket bumped out, letting coolant into the combustion chamber. Fast forward to changing the head gaskets again, car drove just fine, took it easy, changed injectors to 80#, TT 5.7 Chip for E85. Filled up with E85, went to an event and ran nice and easy, on the way home, WOT and once again, white smoke, this time it was the same issue but the #6 cylinder. I used Victor Reinz gaskets both times, this last time, I used the RJC Bulletproof Gaskets (which I believe are what were on the car when I originally changed the head gaskets).

I have attached the log from driving from my house to my GF's, roughly 25 minute drive, mostly freeway, but plenty of stop and go and I got on it a few times.

My question is whether everything looks to be operating correctly, if there are any changes needed to be made etc? I would also love to get into the tuning a bit more and understand what numbers are optimum and how to adjust them.

Currently, the car idles high, both in park (been running around 1400rpm) and in gear (around 850-950), also seems to have a slight miss at idle, cruising is pretty good, but I was about -.5vac, getting close to positive boost, and had a "miss", saw the KR go to *1.4, but that didnt register on the powerlogger, just saw it on the scan master g.

Fuel pressure is at about 43.

Overall, the car cruises around and runs pretty decent, but I want to start with getting it a baseline tune and go from there. I have not hit WOT yet, as I'm not trying to repair another head gasket, or worse since these gaskets are supposed to hold.

For all the info on the car:

Stock 109 block with forged Speed Pro pistons,

shot-peened rods,

stock crankshaft,

steel center main caps.

Fully balanced and blueprinted by Wildcat performance in Adel Georgia. Factory cylinder heads with 2.02/1.55 valves and light port and bowl work. NGK spark plugs gapped at .025. Precision Turbo 6766 journal bearing turbocharger.

GN1 headers and 3.5 inch down pipe. Tubular upper control arms to clear the down pipe.

LS1 starter.

3 inch front mount intercooler

LS1 MAF and translator.

Turbotweak chip with Power Logger. Custom 235mm billet 3500 stall single disc lock-up torque converter built by Greg Chomos.

Turbo Buick to 4L80E adapter. Full billet 4l80E trans built by Kris at CK performance transmissions.

TCI transmission controller.

Custom 3 inch steel balanced driveshaft with 1350 u-joints.

Forged pinion yoke.

Strange 31 spline axles with full spool and c-clip eliminaters.

5/8" wheel studs. ARP hardware throughout.

TA cover with girdle.

Adjustable upper control arms with solid lowers. ATR rear sway bar.

Racetronix full kit with twin Aeromotive 340 pumps and new high flow sending unit.

Setup for the second fuel pump to come on at 15 lbs of boost.

80lb injectors.

Bailey engineering TR6

Devils Own Alcohol injection. AEM Truboost boost controller.

Autometer wideband O2 gauge.


Any review of the log and advice would be greatly appreciated!

Thank you!

 

[mikestertwo]

Can't really tell much from that file. Your just sitting there idling. Your not monitoring boost either. You need to monitor the motor when your out driving under different load conditions. We also need to see what kind of boost you are running.

 

[SCOOBY DOO]

BLM's are 137. You have a vacuum leak or a preturbo exhaust leak.

 

[TurboBuRick]

We need WOT data to see whats going on. It's prolly leaning out.

 

[Tyler Stipe]

BLM's are 137. You have a vacuum leak or a preturbo exhaust leak.

I checked around, found the vacuum block had a nipple snapped/cracked and loose. I'm going to order one of those billet vacuum blocks, but in the meantime, I used some silicon sealer in there. BLM is lower, but still not 128. Thanks for the tip!

 

[Tyler Stipe]

Can't really tell much from that file. Your just sitting there idling. Your not monitoring boost either. You need to monitor the motor when your out driving under different load conditions. We also need to see what kind of boost you are running.

I'll have to see about connecting the boost to the Powerlogger.

 

[Tyler Stipe]

We need WOT data to see whats going on. It's prolly leaning out.

Now, the only issue I have about WOT right now, is I blew the last 2 head gaskets (right after installing them), by doing a couple WOT runs on the freeway, so I'm a little hesitant. I want to make sure my baseline numbers are at least good, before I start breaking things again.

 

[SCOOBY DOO]

Check for the EGR leaking where it's bolted to the intake...and the EGR itself.

 

[TurboBuRick]

Now, the only issue I have about WOT right now, is I blew the last 2 head gaskets (right after installing them), by doing a couple WOT runs on the freeway, so I'm a little hesitant. I want to make sure my baseline numbers are at least good, before I start breaking things again.

I understand but baseline numbers have little to do with WOT and why it blew headgaskets. The expressway is not the place to do it either. Short 3rd gear pulls is how to begin to tune. 55-75mph pulls watching AFR and knock closely. Either on the pl or scanmaster.

 

[turbo89]

Now, the only issue I have about WOT right now, is I blew the last 2 head gaskets (right after installing them), by doing a couple WOT runs on the freeway, so I'm a little hesitant. I want to make sure my baseline numbers are at least good, before I start breaking things again.

Address all the leaks first .. pull the timing out of the chip and set the boost low .. start your tuning in second gear on a short burst ( LOG IT ) then review the log after each short pull.
Get a wideband and log that as well...

Don't just go for it on E85 ... When it pops gaskets with E85 your doing damage to the motor ..

if its clean on the low gear pulls .. sneak up on a longer pull in 3rd .. if that's still clean then you can start playing the tuning game by adding in the boost / timing

 

[Tyler Stipe]

Check for the EGR leaking where it's bolted to the intake...and the EGR itself.

I forgot to mention, the previous owner removed the EGR setup, had the heads filled with aluminum and the intake has had the EGR cut out and filled in.

 

[Tyler Stipe]

I understand but baseline numbers have little to do with WOT and why it blew headgaskets. The expressway is not the place to do it either. Short 3rd gear pulls is how to begin to tune. 55-75mph pulls watching AFR and knock closely. Either on the pl or scanmaster.

That's the kind of advice I need, I'll get some vacant and open stretch of road and see what it does, and of course, the base/idle numbers don't affect WOT, I just want to make sure my baseline numbers are good, so far I'm waiting on a new billet vacuum block, I adjusted the fuel pressure to 42lbs with vacuum off the regulator. It's just been idling a bit high and any throttle above just barely pushing it down gives some hesitation then in boost it seems to stumble, but as soon as I let off and push the gas again, and just cruise, it's good. I'll be monitoring the Wideband and KR through some 3rd gear pulls. Thanks!

 

[Tyler Stipe]

Address all the leaks first .. pull the timing out of the chip and set the boost low .. start your tuning in second gear on a short burst ( LOG IT ) then review the log after each short pull.
Get a wideband and log that as well...

Don't just go for it on E85 ... When it pops gaskets with E85 your doing damage to the motor ..

if its clean on the low gear pulls .. sneak up on a longer pull in 3rd .. if that's still clean then you can start playing the tuning game by adding in the boost / timing

Thanks for the input, that's what I need. I'm waiting on the billet vacuum block, and I'll cut out any unnecessary lines, get all the Leakes fixed. As for pulling the timing out of the chip, how do I do that? I have the power logger, scan master g (with bluetooth to my tablet), and I have my computer hooked up via USB. I know in the power logger console, adjustments can be made, are they to be made in "monitor" mode with the car running? Ignition on, not running? Or it doesn't matter? I'm fairly new to this EFI tuning and am just trying to get the basics down.

Pulled from the turbo tweak instructions:

"Parameter 3 - WOT Spark Timing, 1st/2nd Gear Adjustment

This feature will add or subtract from the default timing in 1st and 2nd gear at WOT. The default number shown on your scantool is 128 which means no change. When the number is raised, each number equals .35 degrees. So if you raise the number to 131, you have added about 1 degree of timing. The max is 154, which is an additional 9.1 degrees. The min is 102, which subtracts 9.1 degrees.

Be very careful when running pump gas (91-94 octane), as it generally cannot tolerate much more than 18- 20°total timing at full throttle. 1st/2nd gear can sometimes tolerate a little more.

Parameter 4 - WOT Spark Timing, 3rd/4th Gear Adjustment

Same as 1st/2nd gear except applies to 3rd/4th gear. If you have no MPH signal (no VSS), don’t adjust this.

Be very careful when running pump gas (91-94 octane), as it generally cannot tolerate much more than 18- 20°total timing at full throttle."



Would I just be reducing the timing from whatever is on the chip?

Thanks again!

 

[turbo89]

Thanks for the input, that's what I need. I'm waiting on the billet vacuum block, and I'll cut out any unnecessary lines, get all the Leakes fixed. As for pulling the timing out of the chip, how do I do that? I have the power logger, scan master g (with bluetooth to my tablet), and I have my computer hooked up via USB. I know in the power logger console, adjustments can be made, are they to be made in "monitor" mode with the car running? Ignition on, not running? Or it doesn't matter? I'm fairly new to this EFI tuning and am just trying to get the basics down.

Pulled from the turbo tweak instructions:

"Parameter 3 - WOT Spark Timing, 1st/2nd Gear Adjustment

This feature will add or subtract from the default timing in 1st and 2nd gear at WOT. The default number shown on your scantool is 128 which means no change. When the number is raised, each number equals .35 degrees. So if you raise the number to 131, you have added about 1 degree of timing. The max is 154, which is an additional 9.1 degrees. The min is 102, which subtracts 9.1 degrees.

Be very careful when running pump gas (91-94 octane), as it generally cannot tolerate much more than 18- 20°total timing at full throttle. 1st/2nd gear can sometimes tolerate a little more.

Parameter 4 - WOT Spark Timing, 3rd/4th Gear Adjustment

Same as 1st/2nd gear except applies to 3rd/4th gear. If you have no MPH signal (no VSS), don’t adjust this.

Be very careful when running pump gas (91-94 octane), as it generally cannot tolerate much more than 18- 20°total timing at full throttle."



Would I just be reducing the timing from whatever is on the chip?

Thanks again!

Correct.. your gonna be pulling timing out.. i would also neuter the boost down this will get you in the "safe" area .. the 2nd gear short pulls
Then 3rd gear short pull., until you get zero knock and afr is reasonable.. fyi on lower boost it may rich knock on E85 .. where you want to get to
Is being able to run the default chip boost / timing with the good afr and no KR.. keep logging each pull and adjust accordingly