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Another option- I'm in the process of installing a hydroboost unit from Hydratech on my 87 GNX clone. I'm getting new hoses made up tomorrow and hopefully will be functional this weekend. I drove (or should I say stopped) turboburick's GN and couldn't believe how well they worked. I plan on having my car at the gnx meet in Ohio Aug. 3 if anybody wants to check it out. Maybe we can even get a group purchase thing going or something. Also check out the hydroboost threads in the brake/suspension section. Something to think about regarding the powermaster-if any part of it fails when you are away from home, assuming you live through it, good luck finding repair parts.
 
To bleed the system,all you have to do is open the closest bleeder and let gravity do the work then continue to the next and so forth. It sounds like you have a bad pump or internal leak. You can use a small piece of rubber hose and press it down on the rear port in the passenger side reservoir and see if fluid comes spilling out of the hose. Does the fluid level in the passenger side of the reservoir go down when the pump comes on? Do you have power assist?

Ttype6,
I tried the short piece of hose on the rear port and front port and there was no signs of fluid spilling out nor climbing up the hose on either ports. Yes, the passenger side of the reservoir goes down whe the key is turned on. Yes, I have power assist.

I took the car around the block and the brakes are nice and firm and they feel the way how they should be. I don't know what happened since the last time I bleed them (the car as been sitting for almost 2 wks), but they are much better. But, My brake light is constantly on, and my pump still constantly runs. Also, after moderate acceleration followed by a fast, sudden press on the brake, the petal gets hard and stiff and the car takes about 1-2secs before the petal gets softer to begin slowing down. I can also feel the pump running with the quick hard brake pressing. Besides that, if I am just normally braking, the brakes seem fine. I don't think it is leaking internally, may be the pump but I have no J35126 bleed valve to test it.
 
Ttype6,
I tried the short piece of hose on the rear port and front port and there was no signs of fluid spilling out nor climbing up the hose on either ports. Yes, the passenger side of the reservoir goes down whe the key is turned on. Yes, I have power assist.

I took the car around the block and the brakes are nice and firm and they feel the way how they should be. I don't know what happened since the last time I bleed them (the car as been sitting for almost 2 wks), but they are much better. But, My brake light is constantly on, and my pump still constantly runs. Also, after moderate acceleration followed by a fast, sudden press on the brake, the petal gets hard and stiff and the car takes about 1-2secs before the petal gets softer to begin slowing down. I can also feel the pump running with the quick hard brake pressing. Besides that, if I am just normally braking, the brakes seem fine. I don't think it is leaking internally, may be the pump but I have no J35126 bleed valve to test it.

Are you saying the pump is always on,or are you saying it only comes on every time you apply the brakes?
 
Ttype6,
I tried the short piece of hose on the rear port and front port and there was no signs of fluid spilling out nor climbing up the hose on either ports. Yes, the passenger side of the reservoir goes down whe the key is turned on. Yes, I have power assist.

I took the car around the block and the brakes are nice and firm and they feel the way how they should be. I don't know what happened since the last time I bleed them (the car as been sitting for almost 2 wks), but they are much better. But, My brake light is constantly on, and my pump still constantly runs. Also, after moderate acceleration followed by a fast, sudden press on the brake, the petal gets hard and stiff and the car takes about 1-2secs before the petal gets softer to begin slowing down. I can also feel the pump running with the quick hard brake pressing. Besides that, if I am just normally braking, the brakes seem fine. I don't think it is leaking internally, may be the pump but I have no J35126 bleed valve to test it.
Can't be the pump if it is running. A bad pump won't run. The pump should run with every 3rd-4th press of the brake pedal. Could be your accumulator. Here is the J35126 on ebay for only $42. I would buy it but I already own one. This is a bargain....http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kent-Moore-Tools-J-35126-TURBO-PRESSURE-TEST-GAUGE-/170845162973
 
The pump is always on.

If the hose test didn't show a leak,you have an inefficient pump that can never produce enough pressure to trigger the high limit switch. It would shut off if it got high enough to trip the switch.
 
I was looking at that same test gauge on ebay last night. I will purchase it in a bit. I have spent a month or so troubleshooting this problem. This is my 2nd rebuilt unit with about 10miles on it. I dont think cardone is replacing or servicing my motor. Do they just paint the casing black and call it good? Is there a place to purchase a good motor from?

TurboBuRick,
I checked the reservoir, and it has about an inch and a half of fluid in it, so its not running dry. I will say that there is a some black fluid in the passenger side of the bowl. How many times that i have pumped and bleeded the brakes with these.last 2 units, I would've thought all if the old trash would have come out by now.
 
Ok, I will order the tool and test my pump to make sure that is the problem. I believe it is. I will PM you once I find out.
 
I was looking at that same test gauge on ebay last night. I will purchase it in a bit. I have spent a month or so troubleshooting this problem. This is my 2nd rebuilt unit with about 10miles on it. I dont think cardone is replacing or servicing my motor. Do they just paint the casing black and call it good? Is there a place to purchase a good motor from?

I thought Cardone gave you a warranty on these rebuilt units? Have you tried to contact them and see if they would troubleshoot that unit or replace it?
 
I thought Cardone gave you a warranty on these rebuilt units? Have you tried to contact them and see if they would troubleshoot that unit or replace it?
They only rebuild them on a case by case basis. They don't have any on the shelf to send out. I also wonder if they actually rebuild the pumps. I would hope that they at least test the unit before it leaves their hands. I sent them mine about 6 weeks ago and haven't heard anything. I fried the motor as it was running on every 2nd push of the pedal. Probably had a bad accumulator but I knew the unit had a warranty. Now I wish I had sent it to them to just replace the accumulator when the pump was still good. Oh well switching over to hydroboost anyways.
 
I fried the motor as it was running on every 2nd push of the pedal. Probably had a bad accumulator
That's not unusual. The motor is an electric motor,and every electric motor fails sooner or later.
 
Y
I thought Cardone gave you a warranty on these rebuilt units? Have you tried to contact them and see if they would troubleshoot that unit or replace it?


Yeah, they gave me a lifetime warranty, but I have sent this unit in 2 twice already. The 1st time it took them 6wks and the 2nd time it took them 4wks. I haven't driven the car in almost 2 and a half mobths now b/c of waiting. On both units, they went bad straight out the box. The brake light was still on and i had an internal leak. Now, I think my motor is bad. I just ordered the gauge tool. I do not think They are touching the motors. I have had two systems go bad without putting 1 mile on them. I wonder if they just paint the motor casing black, and sent them back to you and u think they have been reworked? I am getting frustrated.with this brake issue. They may not even test their rebuilt systems.
 
Y


Yeah, they gave me a lifetime warranty, but I have sent this unit in 2 twice already. The 1st time it took them 6wks and the 2nd time it took them 4wks. I haven't driven the car in almost 2 and a half mobths now b/c of waiting. On both units, they went bad straight out the box. The brake light was still on and i had an internal leak. Now, I think my motor is bad. I just ordered the gauge tool. I do not think They are touching the motors. I have had two systems go bad without putting 1 mile on them. I wonder if they just paint the motor casing black, and sent them back to you and u think they have been reworked? I am getting frustrated.with this brake issue. They may not even test their rebuilt systems.

Wow... I'm sorry to hear that this is dragging on so long and it takes weeks to have it rebuilt just to fail again... Maybe it's time for and upgrade as GNRick has been suggesting? Unless you need the powermaster to remain on for some reason? Vacuum systems can be found on the board for around $150 and hydroboost is maybe double that if you source the parts and hoses your self...
 
Can't be the pump if it is running. A bad pump won't run. The pump should run with every 3rd-4th press of the brake pedal. Could be your accumulator. Here is the J35126 on ebay for only $42. I would buy it but I already own one. This is a bargain....http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kent-Moore-Tools-J-35126-TURBO-PRESSURE-TEST-GAUGE-/170845162973
The pump is always on.

Hey GNrick,
My pressure tool will be in on tomorrow. I read the piece that you wrote on gnttype.org about powermaster troubleshooting (I think that was the site). Do you have any more detailed info on how to use the tool?
 
Hey GNrick,
My pressure tool will be in on tomorrow. I read the piece that you wrote on gnttype.org about powermaster troubleshooting (I think that was the site). Do you have any more detailed info on how to use the tool?
I have a booklet on how to troubleshoot the PM...Richard Clark is very knowledgable on it and he will be at the gnx meet in Ohio in a couple weeks. Will you be there? If not let me know and I will get the booklet out.
 
Hey GNrick,
My pressure tool will be in on tomorrow. I read the piece that you wrote on gnttype.org about powermaster troubleshooting (I think that was the site). Do you have any more detailed info on how to use the tool?

Install and turn the key on. Take note of how much pressure is produced. The pressure needs to get up to 540-770 PSI to trip the high pressure switch to shut the motor off. If the pressure doesn't get high enough to trip the switch,your motor won't shut off,meaning your pump is bad or you have a leak in the booster area of the master cylinder. You said you did the hose test,so you shouldn't have a booster leak.
 
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