Powermaster running all the time.

[Chris Robertson]

Motor running. Brake light flashed 2 times in last 100 miles. No loss of power or fluid I can see. Please help me in the correct direction.

 

[BEATAV8]

Internal leakage. Usually requires installation of a new seal kit and fine sanding of the check valve poppet seat surface to ensure it seals.

Worst case, the pump is shot. But not usually.

 

[BEATAV8]

If allowed to continue running continuously, the pump motor will burn up before too long

 

[Chris Robertson]

So would a new master cylinder fix it or do you not get the check valve in a new master cylinder. Can you exsplain a bit more please

 

[Chuck Leeper]

MC won't do it.
What Steve said.
Could also be the switch. Was a factory recall on them, many yrs back.

 

[Chris Robertson]

Ok. Can an average guy perform the rebuild? Where can I buy the seal kit? Do they sell a check valve or just clean it with brake cleaner

 

[BEATAV8]

Kirban sells a seal kit for it. Includes the seat for the check valve. He also has a book.

Or you can send the whole unit to Richard Clark for rebuild

 

[BEATAV8]

Rebuilding it at home is a medium level difficulty job. If you’ve ever rebuilt any master cylinder at all before then you could do this one

 

[BEATAV8]

When I rebuild one I always use a new switch too. And a Hydac accumulator

 

[Chris Robertson]

So Who do I get ahold of to rebuild it? I dont want to lose summer over this.

 

[BEATAV8]

Richard Clark’s Garage

 

[Pronto]

http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/brakes/brakespage.html
Read up. The switch and accumulator ball are easy but you need a 1 1/2" socket for the switch and a thin open end for the ball. HF open end was thin enough.

 

[Chris Robertson]

http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/brakes/brakespage.html
Read up. The switch and accumulator ball are easy but you need a 1 1/2" socket for the switch and a thin open end for the ball. HF open end was thin enough.

Thank you so much.