Pre-Lube System installed

[GNONYX]

Hi All,
I want to thank Buick members: aminga, DJ Red Barron, Fast4Ward, Mike70gtx, ThaBozz89, and others for their input and advice of the Rear End Seal Installation. I took my time making sure everything was done correctly since I didn't want to do it again. Since then I have replaced the oil pump screen, valve cover gaskets, Radiator hoses, all of the heater hoses, spark plugs, spark plug wires, upgraded the stock injectors to 60# injectors, and fuel regulator. I didn't add the hot wire system since I haven't had the chance to place an external fuel gauge to see fuel pressure reading at WOT. I did ran the car to about 70mph operating with the replacement fuel pump I replaced years ago, and car ran good and without being staving for gas, but I still don't know if I'm getting the right amount of fuel pressure at WOT.
I also installed a Pre-Lube Oil System since I don't drive the car every day. I did check out other Pre-Lube Oil Systems, but in my opinion I like this since less electrical parts is needed. If anyone is interested in this system check out this web site: AutoEngineLube Pre Lube System Reduces Engine Wear Up To 60%
Also checkout my installation pictures. I will be adding a timer in order to capture the high end oil pressure in the Accumulator tank. I'm using 20-50 oil grade; car idling temp 173* with oil pressure reading of 35psi
If any would like to order this system please use my name (Julio) as referral.

 

[GNONYX]

Final picture of installation of timer

Here is the final installation picture of adding a timer in order to capture the high end oil pressure in the Accumulator tank. The kit comes with a fuse holder except this one I added this fuse holder with fuse blown red light indicator. In front of the fuse holder is a digital timer (purchase separately).
Here is another link for more info: AutoEngineLube Pre Lube System Reduces Engine Wear Up To 60%

 

[Nasty Wendy]

I've been using an 'ESP Turbo Pre/Post luber' for a while now and I love it. I'm not familiar with your brand. Mine also has its own oil filter installed because without one you are circulating unfiltered oil through your motor.
Pre-luber Engine Products

 

[GNONYX]

I agreed both systems needs to have circulated filter oil to work its optimum. I did look into the ESP system, and then decided my personal choice was to use the auto engine lube system. As a retired electrician (Marine, residential, and commercial work) I know less components, less downtime. Don't get me wrong, I'm not knocking on ESP system for having an electric oil pump and controller unit for the pre-lube and pre-post. Auto engine lube system works on oil pressure, a Accumulator tank with a marine valve that holds the oil pressure, the same oil pressure your engine uses to circulate from the engine oil pressure switch location. The only reason why I added a timer is to capture the highest oil pressure inside the Accumulator tank for the next start up. I didn't purchase the extra pre-post kit since I usually idle the engine a couple of minutes longer to circulate the turbo oil. I have read many members threads on why these GN oil pressure are low. My GN is mostly stock 92,000 miles(beside 60# fuel injectors, adjustable fuel regulator, and ECM chip). When I replaced the rear main seal I also replaced the stock GM oil pump screen to Melling H.O. pump screen. At cold start up the oil pressure is around 65#, engine idling at 173* oil pressure is at around 35#
Is it possible you can post some pictures of your ESP system?

 

[Nasty Wendy]

I won't be under the hood any tomorrow but I will on tuesday weather permitting. I'll snap some shots and post them up then. Don't get me wrong, I wasn't knocking your brand. I was only posting what I chose.

 

[rhunt]

Pre lube

Saw your post and this seems like a good addition to any GN. Couple of questions. I assume you leave the original oil sending unit in and just tee off of it. Does the system prevent the idiot light from working? Would you recommend installing an oil pressure gauge? Do you need a degree in mechanical engineering to install the system or would it be better to have a mechanic install? Do you have to modify anything in order to install?

Sorry for the rambling but I want to be sure of what I am getting into before I lay out the cash. You can answer here or email at rfhunt@aol.com

Thanks in advance

Roger

 

[GNONYX]

Hi Roger,
This is not a bad job to do, but the key word is "Patience, Patience, Patience".
I'm retired and do my work in the garage, so I don't have a machine shop to cut, bend , and fabricate a sheet metal bracket for the Accumulator tank. Drain the oil and radiator, and also remove the bottom radiator hose to expose the oil pressure switch.

The kit comes with just about everything needed from start to finish. On the first picture shows a piece of angle metal that is used for supporting a garage door opening unit. The fifth picture shows I mounted the angle bracket on the side of the stock intercooler mounting bolt.

The second picture shows the O.E.M. brass tee fitting and the oil pressure switch. At this point is where the word patience comes in to play. I removed the turbo oil fitting on both ends since you don't want to bend the pre-form shape. Then remove the oil pressure switch, maybe you may want to replace this unit its cheap enough. Clean the OEM brass tee and apply the Teflon tape on all male threads to all brass fittings. When putting back the brass tee fitting, each GN is different so your results may have a different angle of tightest. Mine went past the vertical position; the kit came with a 45* angle grass fitting, and it work great as you can see. You don't want to go too high on any fitting that get attached on the top of the OEM tee fitting or you will interfere with the bottom radiator hose.

The third picture shows a 3"x1/4" brass pipe, the kit brass tee fitting and on the end of the tee is option oil pressure sender unit for the oil pressure gauge. Make sure all fittings are tight before going to the next phase of piping, that includes putting back the turbo oil tubing.

The fifth picture is mounting the Accumulator tank so you can measure the correct length of the kit pressure hose. Don't do what I did by putting a hose clamp on the kits pressure hose. The kit pressure hose is design to be push into the provided hose fittings without any clamps.

I ran some wires inside a flexible black wire-way trough from the fuse block to the oil pressure gauge sender unit. Myself I added wires for the oil pressure gauge sender unit, ground wire for the gauge itself, ground wire from the sending unit to the engine frame or a good ground source, ignition wire for the Accumulator tank valve and extra wires for the future.

Connect the wires to the sender unit including the ground, attached the pressure hose onto the brass tee fitting, and all is secure and tighten, then attach the bottom radiator hose. The kit also comes with a fuse holder (no fuse I added 5 amp). I added a with an fuse blown red indicator lamp fuse holder, you don't need to do that but thats my preference. I also added with additional cost a timer to capture the highest oil pressure in the Accumulator tank. I will email you if it case you may want to talk instead of emailing back and forth.