Hey has anyone changed their proportioning valve . I need to do it on my work regal " The Intruder " I guess all lines will need to be bleed . Is this going to be a curse fest kind of job ? The Light is staying on and the rear wheel cyl blew out , i was in HVY Longisland Expwy traffic . I had the shop i rolled into do the rear cyl , but that was it , i didnt feel like paying up the , well you know . They said that the prop valve was bad to but how could i know for sure . The brakes work they just suck really bad .
Proportioning valve install
- Thread starter galoush
- Start date
I've heard many sad storis about bleeding the brakes on a GN. I would try to do the job best as I could, using the method spelled out in gnttype.org or the shop manual. If I couldn't get it right, I'd have a reputable shop use the pressure method. I'd be using Terry Buick.
galoush,
you probably have the old style cast iron proportional valve, if it's original. new GM replacements are brass.
Advice would be:
-- soak the old iron valve's fittings with liquid wrench or PB Blaster first, or you may round off the flare nuts getting them loose.
-- Use a 6-point flare nut wrench.
-- don't over-torque flare nuts on the new brass prop valve, or you may strip out the brass threads.
-- even if you work fast, it will be messy with brake fluid leaking all over.
you probably have the old style cast iron proportional valve, if it's original. new GM replacements are brass.
Advice would be:
-- soak the old iron valve's fittings with liquid wrench or PB Blaster first, or you may round off the flare nuts getting them loose.
-- Use a 6-point flare nut wrench.
-- don't over-torque flare nuts on the new brass prop valve, or you may strip out the brass threads.
-- even if you work fast, it will be messy with brake fluid leaking all over.
