Pump failure?

[turbojimmy]

So, after 8 months of bringing my car back and forth to a local trans shop to have it repaired over and over again, I thought I was finally on the home stretch. Basically all the parts on it that can be replaced have been replaced - inlcuding a new 10 vane pump. It still didn't feel 100% like it did before, but it was close.

Yesterday, I hear a POP!, get a lot of loud clicking from the front cover, and have no motion at all - not even an attempt. Does that sound like the pump? Called the trans guy, he said bring it back Monday. I'm guessing (hoping) he'll replace the pump without charging me. I really haven't driven the car much, nor even been to the track with it. I was just leaving a stop sign and BANG!. The only thing I have done to it is replace the TC. I had a red stripe in it that was bad. Could I have done something to cause the pump to fail when I swapped converters?

Thanks,
Jim

 

[MeanBuicks]

Sure sounds like the pump is a goner.

Easiest way to tell is to check the fluid level with the car running. If it's way overfull on the dipstick, like it is when the car isn't running, it's not pumping.

A converter swap can sometimes cause problems. If the new converter was built too short, the hub can jump up on top of the pump rotor. If the converter has excessive runout, it can cause pump damage.

 

[WE4]

Possibilties?

Flex plate broke, (does motor crank?)

Torque converter: splines stripped, turbine broke,hub broke

pump: rotor explosion (which if aftermarket 10 or 13 vane were used is very proboble) stator broke/and/or stripped,

input shaft failure

od planet to input shaft spline failure, Od ring gear failure

Forward drum shaft.

It is definitly one of the above....

Only way to know is to take out, and inspect

Bummer......

Bruce
WE4
www.ptsnctb.com

 

[turbojimmy]

Thanks for the replies.

It *had* a new hardened stator in it, but the last thing the guy did to it was install a 10 vane pump. I have to *assume* (hope) he bolted the hardened stator to the new pump.

I put a stock converter back in it, so I doubt there's be a problem with the hub being short. It may have been bad, though. It was used and I don't know the history of it. It's been working fine for a few weeks, though.

It cranks and starts just fine, just the awful clicking noise. Which, by the way, is the same noise I had 8 months ago when all this bulls--t started. Except then it would move. Now I don't have anything.

I think I'm going to cut my losses with this guy and take it to Level 10. I think I've been expecting too much of him, and this time the failure could be my fault. Level 10 is pretty close to my house. They're expensive, but nothing compared to having just thrown $1,200 out the window on this thing and still have it broken.

Thanks for the replies,

Jim

 

[WE4]

Try eric schertz. he's even closer.
516-356-2511


Good luck Bruce
WE4
God Bless America