Rear main seal and crank

[oc192]

Hello All,

I have owned my car for about 5 years now and it was completely stock when I bought it. Shortly after, I had the rear main seal replaced. The mechanic showed me the main bearing cap and it had some wear marks on it. After about a year or so, the rear main started leaking again so I had it replaced a 2nd time.

Fast forward to today, I have been chasing random oil leaks like the oil pan, the turbo drain tube, valve covers etc. Still having serious leaks so I put some dye in the oil and I now see fresh oil coming out of the block in the crevice between the starter and block. One mechanic looked at it and said the rear main seal is leaking again, ugggh!!! He also advised that these are real pain in the asre to do correctly because they are 2 piece design. In addition, he said if the crank has some play it could be eating up the seals.

Question, if the main cap is showing wear, does this mean the crank has excessive play and is eating the seals or is the seal not being installed correctly? This would be the 3rd time the seal has been replaced in a 5 year period....

If the crank movement is the reason for the seal carnage, what would need to be done to correct it? What would be a rough cost of a bottom end rebuild?

Thanks,
Don

 

[mtocrs1]

My guess is that that it's not the actual seal that goes around the crankshaft and its the side seals that go in the cap. Have it replaced again and tell them to substitute the side seals for right stuff. Once the cap is installed it is squirted from the can into the seals until it comes out the cracks. I have down this on a few now with zero leaks. I also throw throw the oils pan gasket in the garbage and use right stuff.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[oc192]

My guess is that that it's not the actual seal that goes around the crankshaft and its the side seals that go in the cap. Have it replaced again and tell them to substitute the side seals for right stuff. Once the cap is installed it is squirted from the can into the seals until it comes out the cracks. I have down this on a few now with zero leaks. I also throw throw the oils pan gasket in the garbage and use right stuff.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks for the advice, I will pass this suggestion along when I have it replaced again.

 

[Thomas Gentilin]

Hello All,

I have owned my car for about 5 years now and it was completely stock when I bought it. Shortly after, I had the rear main seal replaced. The mechanic showed me the main bearing cap and it had some wear marks on it. After about a year or so, the rear main started leaking again so I had it replaced a 2nd time.

Fast forward to today, I have been chasing random oil leaks like the oil pan, the turbo drain tube, valve covers etc. Still having serious leaks so I put some dye in the oil and I now see fresh oil coming out of the block in the crevice between the starter and block. One mechanic looked at it and said the rear main seal is leaking again, ugggh!!! He also advised that these are real pain in the asre to do correctly because they are 2 piece design. In addition, he said if the crank has some play it could be eating up the seals.

Question, if the main cap is showing wear, does this mean the crank has excessive play and is eating the seals or is the seal not being installed correctly? This would be the 3rd time the seal has been replaced in a 5 year period....

If the crank movement is the reason for the seal carnage, what would need to be done to correct it? What would be a rough cost of a bottom end rebuild?

Thanks,
Don

Had my rear main seal done at a Dealership 1 year ago.........put maybe 200 miles on car and gues what....it's leaking like a River again WTF?'

 

[THensley]

will you did the search and found a 8 year old post with some good advice.
But this is my advice If this job is out of your skill level Bypass a dealer and find a shop that has 2 Turbo Buicks out front and one on the lift.
These cars are 30+ year in the dark ages you need a true Buick Nut NOT a 25 year old Tech with a diploma on the wall.
You can show him post #2 and he will screw it up too.
You need to ask the question, How is a true Buick mechanic in 250 mile radius of you and if you can't find one you need to make the circle bigger.
Spending 3 times the money that you just spent will yield good results.