First of all, our poly bushing design won't bind or squeak like other "more common" poly bushings for 2 reasons:
The design incorporates a grease fitting that allows grease to get to the inner sleeve, 360 degrees around and the full length.
The inner sleeve is ground down to a special dimension, allowing less resistance on the poly. This is a small amount, but it makes a BIG difference. The arms will move smoothly up & down (for suspension travel & weight transfer), but are still tight side-to-side for handling improvements. Our bushings will move easier & smoother than even the new rubber bushings from GM.
As far as durometer, not exactly sure. It is around 90 I believe. It is stiff enough to handle hard launches, yet gives enough to make it a nice ride on the street. For those looking for 60 ft's lower than 1.40's, we recommend adding a delrin center to the lower CA's. This is "basically" a hard plastic that has high lubricity characteristics and can handle high impact & load. Some use this material all the way across, but we found it works best & is plenty strong enough just using it in the middle. Makes for a harder ride, but can't get it all when in the 1.3's & quicker getting the most out of it. We have been doing this for a short time now, and unfortunately don't have the info on our site yet. I see how fast each person plans to go & treat each person as a custom application. One size doesn't really fit all if you are looking for the most from your combo.
Which brings me to my last point. NOT to take anything away from Geno's efforts or results (because they are quite amazing), but he should really be in the low 1.3's when running 9's. My car went a 1.401 60 ft time (which is really close to a 1.399) going 10.80's. I would think my 60's would have been low 1.3's minimum if I had more power to shave close to a full second off my time (that would have been nice
). My point is, there are a few people that go fast with stk suspension parts, but it is not real common. I believe they could knock a few tenths off the 60 with the right stuff (our stuff
), which would have been 3-4 tenths on the 1/4 mile time. Of course I can't imagine mid 9's on a stk block, but that shows it could be possible, unless it's too violent for the block to handle. Good working suspension will allow you to find the weak link because you can keep hitting it harder & harder.
As far as breaking the ears off, I have only heard that happening on install/removal WITHOUT our tool. It was common years ago (& somewhat today) to have a solid aluminum "bushing" in there for racing. If it binds enough to break the ear off, your rearend is nowhere close to being under the car. Jack the car up from the rearend center, support the frame, and lower the rearend. The arms don't get too far out of alignment from the ears, even at full travel. There should be no change side to side, or your tires will rub the frame & wheel openings. There is still some, even with our CA's, but nowhere near enough to break an ear off. The side-to-side motion is one more thing solved with our new swaybar/anti-roll system. It takes a lot of unwanted stress & resistance off the suspension (and ears) by keeping it square with the chassis, but that's a whole different topic
Hope that helped explain things & answer questions.
