recommended paint brand

jason walker

Member
Joined
Jul 1, 2012
getting ready to have my car repainted has original paint and it has one repaint but has alot of runs needs it bad what paint brand do any of my fellow GN owners think is the best with the best result and why do you think that it is the best ..... thanks jason
 
First off Jason, there are quite a few GOOD paints out there but I went with Lusid Technologies paint as was recommended by my painter here. Iv'e seen it on 4 other cars he's done with it and 3 of them being show cars. Doug ( my painter) really likes it and the clear is as hard as a rock. Here's a pic. of my car finished but keep in mind the car was taken apart and was stripped to bare metal. Car was done in April and May of last year and it still looks like it was done yesterday. Very pleased.
 

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ppg would be my first choice
saying that
gncowboy on here has painted my typhoon with matrix .........and it makes a $70000 new black car look like shit.

so its ALL in the painter/body guy
 
Ppg it's the world leader in paint for a reason and not saying anything bad about what has been mentioned but rock hard clear you don't want if you drive it a lot l have worked at BMW for years and there clear is Rock hard too look at just about any BMW and they all covered in Rock. Chips rock hard clear is brittle chips easily just my experience and 90 % of all new cars are covered in ppg:)
 
First off Jason, there are quite a few GOOD paints out there but I went with Lusid Technologies paint as was recommended by my painter here. Iv'e seen it on 4 other cars he's done with it and 3 of them being show cars. Doug ( my painter) really likes it and the clear is as hard as a rock. Here's a pic. of my car finished but keep in mind the car was taken apart and was stripped to bare metal. Car was done in April and May of last year and it still looks like it was done yesterday. Very pleased.
thanks looks like ppg is for me
 
Ppg it's the world leader in paint for a reason and not saying anything bad about what has been mentioned but rock hard clear you don't want if you drive it a lot l have worked at BMW for years and there clear is Rock hard too look at just about any BMW and they all covered in Rock. Chips rock hard clear is brittle chips easily just my experience and 90 % of all new cars are covered in ppg:)
thanks didn't think about hard or soft clear coats
 
Glasurit base and sikkens clear coat. Been on my car for 7 years an still looks new. Very expensive paint though, clear coat is well worth the money.
 

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I believe it's sikkens has another brand called Wanda, have a painter who really likes that paint and its not too expensive. But he uses Wanda for the base and usually for clear or whatever his client wants to use.
 
Sorry but I think I misinformed some about this Lusid clear. It is HARD but it is like a rubber hard, will take lots of punishement before it scratches or chips. In fact a very good friend of mine here that has been the auto painting instructor here at a local college for 30 plus years has used some Lusid now and he says it's very nice. He's was strictly a PPG man.
 
iv been a custom auto painter for 6 7 years now ppg is really good but house of kolor jet black is straight black and for the price i would go house of kolor base and ppg clear....ppg clear has more uv protection so the sun is most likely less to eat up your paint...
 
I've been painting for the last 15 years and use DuPont. PPG is great also, as well as sikkens and HOK. It's not going to make much of a difference what brand you use, they are all pretty good as long as you don't use their cheap lines. I'm certified in PPG, DuPont, Sikkens and S&H.
I'd also stick to 1 company's product and not cross brands. If something goes wrong and you need to warranty the paint or clear, crossing brands will null your warranty and yes, all paints have warrantys, most like DuPont are lifetime for adhesion providing the prep work was done properly....... and yes they can tell lol
 
I've been painting for the last 15 years and use DuPont. PPG is great also, as well as sikkens and HOK. It's not going to make much of a difference what brand you use, they are all pretty good as long as you don't use their cheap lines. I'm certified in PPG, DuPont, Sikkens and S&H.
I'd also stick to 1 company's product and not cross brands. If something goes wrong and you need to warranty the paint or clear, crossing brands will null your warranty and yes, all paints have warrantys, most like DuPont are lifetime for adhesion providing the prep work was done properly....... and yes they can tell lol[/quote


]thanks didn't think about that
 
Dupont. Also why would you paint a black in basecoat/clear not single stage? I don't think bc/c is desired on non metallic paint. Just my opinion. Original paint was in lacquer I think. good luck
 
There is no urethane that would be a bad choice. The paint has little to no effect on the quality of the finished product. It's a person,not a brand of paint,that you need to shop for.
 
when its time to strip the old pain is soada blasting the way to go or not
Soda blasting leaves a film behind. I do not recommend it. As far as paint goes, not all paints are the same . The lower end stuff has less UV protection in the clear. As far as base goes, Sherwin Williams and Dupont use parafin wax as a metallic control, which makes the base prone to stone chips. Base coat is the weak link in a base coat clear coat system. With black, I would use single stage with clear mixed 50/50 with the last coat. For a high quality restoration system, I like PPG. There are others that will give a high quality finish, but remember you get what you pay for. Cheaper products might look good at first, but will shrink, ring up, pinch up, die back, chip, peel, spider web, de-lam,etc. I have been in the collision repair/restoration industry for 15 years. I can make cheap products look great, but I understand the difference between a job that will last and one that will look like crap in a year.
 
Soda blasting leaves a film behind. I do not recommend it. As far as paint goes, not all paints are the same . The lower end stuff has less UV protection in the clear. As far as base goes, Sherwin Williams and Dupont use parafin wax as a metallic control, which makes the base prone to stone chips. Base coat is the weak link in a base coat clear coat system. With black, I would use single stage with clear mixed 50/50 with the last coat. For a high quality restoration system, I like PPG. There are others that will give a high quality finish, but remember you get what you pay for. Cheaper products might look good at first, but will shrink, ring up, pinch up, die back, chip, peel, spider web, de-lam,etc. I have been in the collision repair/restoration industry for 15 years. I can make cheap products look great, but I understand the difference between a job that will last and one that will look like crap in a year.

50/50 base and clear? yikes! Are you not using waterbourne yet? It's crazy to me you guys in the states still use single stage, there is no way I'd put SS on any vehicle, ever, for any reason if I had a BC system to use.
There is also nothing wrong with soda blasting if you clean it up properly (which the place doing the blasting should do if they are any type of reputable business)
And Ttype6 has good advise as far as finding a reputable person to do the painting but the paint having little to no effect on the finished product? It's crap like that that leads to disasters. It makes a HUGE difference if you use good quality paint for all the reasons forcefed has stated.
 
50/50 SS and clear, not base. It is the most durable finish. I use PPG Envirobase at work. When it comes to a solid color, especial black, there is nothing wrong with DCC single stage. This is on non daily driver cars that get taken care of, so the chalking out that is typical of SS won't happen.
 
getting ready to have my car repainted has original paint and it has one repaint but has alot of runs needs it bad what paint brand do any of my fellow GN owners think is the best with the best result and why do you think that it is the best ..... thanks jason

I used House of Kolor Black base with SPI products. Sealer, 2k primer and universal clear.
http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/Product lines.htm
First time doing an all over paint job and it turned out great. The guy that actually makes the paint will be available for help like some of the sponsoring parts vendors on this site.
 
forcefed3.8's said:
50/50 SS and clear, not base. It is the most durable finish. I use PPG Envirobase at work. When it comes to a solid color, especial black, there is nothing wrong with DCC single stage. This is on non daily driver cars that get taken care of, so the chalking out that is typical of SS won't happen.

This is sound advise since we do the same on our high end restorations. Straight single stage on the first few coats then Cocktail the clear for the last coats. Of course only for straight non-matalic colors.

Envirobase has its advantages for other things such as superior color match for blend jobs on repair work. Also lays out metallics very well.
AG
 
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