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Removing injectors help

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tzque

Member
Joined
Jun 26, 2006
Messages
273
I have everything unscrewed and sprayed down the injectors but I cannot get them out .
I am looking for some helpful hints to get the injectors out . Should I start at the back and move forward . I read to twist them . Just a FYI this is the first time the injectors will be removed
 
let them sit overnight or for a few hours after spraying them with wd40 or some motor oil and they'll pop out alot easier IMO they are kinda bitchy the first time you take them out i also used some big pliers with a piece of wood near the injector as support to push up evenly sounds weird but it worked for me..if they twist and turn smoothly they should'nt be to hard to pop out make sure the oring are still on injector if not check injector port on intake or on fuel rail!
 
5/8" open end wrench, put it at the base and use it to pry. They will pop right out.
 
So I should do that for each one . Is there only one connection in the back or two . I see the plug with the tab I have to remove . I was going to take the whole rail out and put in the new injectors
 
I guess you've removed the coil pack already? There's one conection for the injector harness. WD40 or PB blaster would work well to soak. I'm with the 5/8 wrench since it's already out due to the fuel line. If they've never been out then I would remove the fuel rail and replace all of the O rings. Inspect the the injector harness very well for cracks or bad rub marks. Most of the ones I see need replaced. You can get one at Caspers. Good time to do an adjustable fuel pressure regulator and a fuel pressure gauge. RJC power plate?
 
I like everything you have told me until you suggest I spend more money . Turboclam3 this money pit cant get any deeper . That is why I have to do this work myself . My neighbor thinks I am crazy for changing my car over . Stock got boring
 
I dont want to sound like a smart a$$ . On my table right now is the Maf flow translortor, KN Filter , injectors , chip , new pipe, new clamps . I just dont know if I can spend another penny .
 
Mine were tricky to get out also, after 20yrs they did not want to come out. I twisted and pried and they finally came out. It helps when you are not going to re-use them, that way if you mess one up, who cares.
 
Mine were the originals and I wound up having to lay a short piece of wood in there and pry them out with a pry bar. The o-rings were hard and the injector plastic tips stayed in the hole and had to be fished out with a piece of wire. I worked on it several evenings after work - soaking and prying until I just went with the prybar - per the advice of another member.
 
On the right track. What injectors did you go with and what chip? I'd take the idle air control valve out to take a peek. Take the PCV valve out to see if it works. If you do the RJC power plate I would say that you're pretty much done with the top there. If the chip calls for a 160 degree thermostat I would validate that you have one.
 
Thermostat was done Saturday. I am not playing . What is the best way to change the injectors . Specifically the pin holding them in . I want to do this right
F
 
I Went with the turbotweak chip and 42lb injectors . I am not building a race car I didn't feel I needed 60
 
What does the power plate do. I can't spend another penny until I get another side job
 
Paul I see u are on . I couldn't call u again . Thanks for your help . I am getting there . I will probably have u do the header and the rear seal
 
The power plate distributes the air evenly into the cylinders. Otherwise the rear cylinders run lean and the front run rich, so they say.
 
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