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Removing old brake fluid & replace with new fluid

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GNONYX

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 16, 2009
Messages
1,754
Hi All,
I need a refreshment course on brake fluid. Would the sequence of operation of the Bleeding Process be the same as replacing the entire old brake fluid system with new brake fluid? I want to prevent potential cross-contamination between the new and old fluid.

Bleeding Process - Begin at the corner furthest from the driver and proceed in order toward the driver. (Right rear, left rear, right front, left front.)
 
what i have done with my cars: suck as much fluid from reservoir as you can. i pour some denatured alcohol (you can get it from home depot) thrust me on this one. :D hook up a mighty vac on the bleeder furthest from the reservoir, and start pulling vacuum. do the same with the remaining bleeders. and last but not least, do the same steps with brake fluid, i recomend dot 4 has a higher boiling point. :cool:
 
what i have done with my cars: suck as much fluid from reservoir as you can. i pour some denatured alcohol (you can get it from home depot) thrust me on this one. :D hook up a mighty vac on the bleeder furthest from the reservoir, and start pulling vacuum. do the same with the remaining bleeders. and last but not least, do the same steps with brake fluid, i recomend dot 4 has a higher boiling point. :cool:


Not really necessary. THe new fluid will push the old out of the system
 
The car has been store in my garage for about 11 years, and I do start it about one to two months, and applied the brake. It's that maintenance time of changing the brake fluid. What do you with the Accumulator Ball? Would this unit also has fluid inside or is it just for vacuum system?
 
Thanks for your qiuck response, but how do replace the old brake fluid with the new brake fluid without cross-contamination between the new and old fluid?
 
If you run enough fresh, clean fluid through it and use a MityVac type tool to suck it out through the wheel cylinder or caliper, there won't be "cross contamination".
 
Thanks for your qiuck response, but how do replace the old brake fluid with the new brake fluid without cross-contamination between the new and old fluid?

Just fill up the master cylinder with fresh and bleed the system. It won't mix much, not enought to matter.

The Accumulator is drained when you pump the brakes with the key off.
 
the accumulator ball has brake fluid on one side of the diaphragm, will empty key off, and apply brakes 3-4 times, the other side of the ball is sealed with probably high pressure nitrogen, sealed, that's ur assist when u loose ur powermaster.
 
I want to thank you all for your input, at least now I have many options to replace the brake fluid.
 
Accumulator Ball

I purchased my 1987 Buick Grand National in 1988 as a second ownership.
My question, I never receive the Bulletin report of the malfunction of the original black Power Master Accumulator Ball. As I mention before I had my car in storage for about 11 years, and no I didn't know about the recall of the Accumulator Ball. Is there a limitation from Buick dealership of having the original black Accumulator Ball replace? This maybe a dumb question but I have ask.
 
I purchased my 1987 Buick Grand National in 1988 as a second ownership.
My question, I never receive the Bulletin report of the malfunction of the original black Power Master Accumulator Ball. As I mention before I had my car in storage for about 11 years, and no I didn't know about the recall of the Accumulator Ball. Is there a limitation from Buick dealership of having the original black Accumulator Ball replace? This maybe a dumb question but I have ask.

The bulletin was for the brake pressure switch not the accumulator ball.
 
I did check on other members who ask the same question, and as you stated its the pressure switch. If the top of the pressure switch is gray then it has been replaced. If the top of the pressure switch is black then you have to replace the pressure switch. Thanks again for the correct info.
 
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