Removing the downpipe

[John N]

Who had the bright idea of using allen headed bolts on my THDP? Why not 12 point??? Anyway, I got 2 out of 4 bolts out and other two want to strip but aren't too bad yet. Any body have tricks? I tried heat and spraying them with oil. I may have to take it off with the turbo which would be retarded. HELP!

 

[MSDGN]

Usually a propane torch around the area of the bolt will allow it to break loose...other than that try visegrips...you can get replacement bolts at ACE hardware or comparable store...just some advice for the future...if you plan on removing the downpipe...get the motor to operating temp and crack the bolts loose before you do anything else...also make sure to use anti-seize...can you start the car and let it run?

 

[John N]

Tried torching it and tried vice grips. I cannot start the motor unfortunately. I am in the process of taking it out actually. And as far as anti sieze I noticed the person that installed the pipe applied very little of it and applied it to the unthreaded part of the bolts. Smart! I'll give it another try and worst case scenario is I replace the turbo and downpipe :biggrin:

 

[turbo nasty]

I used anti sieze on mine and still I had to torch out 2 on my 87.

They came out after I heated them to cherry red and then they came right out.
Went back with a 8 x 1.25x 35 mm SS allen heads from Fastenal.

Just make sure the thread are clean all the way down I ran a longer bolt in and out with its threads lubed several times and all was well.

 

[John N]

I never heated them until they were cherry red but I will try that later. For now I just removed the turbo and DP together. I will replace all the bolts so thanks for giving me the size!

 

[Junior Samples]

Well can always try and drill/cut the heads off.. if you can reach, but if it was my luck they would be on bottom.

When you heated em up did ya try and give a quick tighten to em then try and back off? provided you have enough bite to give it one more shot.

 

[counterman]

I used studs and nuts instead of bolts a few years back after I got tired of this kind of trouble. Never a problem again. I can get my downpipe out in less than 5 minutes--something I've had to do way to often lately. In any case, use studs long enough to go through the flange, but short enough to allow the nuts to still be installed on the ends without interference from the downpipe itself. A little dab of never seize every two or three removals will prevent this from happening again. Plus, installing the downpipe is simply a matter of rolling the pipe into the engine compartment and hanging it on the studs. Just throw the nuts on and tighten. No more trying to line up the damned bolts with the holes while trying to hold/handle the downpipe into the right spot. Counterman.