Removing The Turbo - is there a trick?

[Boostmeister]

OK, I've followed the service manual steps to remove the turbo, but I just don't see any way to get the thing out unless I remove the studs that go into the exhaust manifold, and these are in there solid. Any suggestions? Anybody ever use bolts to mount the turbo to the manifold instead of studs and nuts?

 

[DMan]

Originally posted by Boostmeister
OK, I've followed the service manual steps to remove the turbo, but I just don't see any way to get the thing out unless I remove the studs that go into the exhaust manifold, and these are in there solid. Any suggestions? Anybody ever use bolts to mount the turbo to the manifold instead of studs and nuts?

You do not need to remove the studs to remove the turbo.

Going from memory, to remove the turbo, you should have unbolted the 3 nuts on the studs holding it to the exh manifold, unbolted the downpipe, oil feed line on the top, oil drain line on the bottom, wastegate lines, inlet maf pipe/hose, and unbolt the semicircular bracket (the 2 bolts on the head/block and the 2 or 3 nuts on the turbo). Remove the bracket. Also unbolt the intercooler and tilt it toward the radiator so you can remove the hose that connects the outlet of the turbo-compressor to the intercooler inlet.

After that, the turbo should pop right off.

Make sure you reconnect the ground wires when you reinstall the semicircular bracket to the block.

HTH

 

[V6 Beast]

Remove downpipe
Remove MaF pipe/hose
Remove the 3 nuts on the bottom of where turbo connect to header
remove oil feed line
Remove oil return line
Remove connector from turbo to intercooler
Disconnect vacumn hose from front of turbo and from wastegate actuator
lift turbo straight off.

HTH
Sully

 

[KEVINS]

The IC hose does not like to flex easily so you may have to get a little aggressive when trying to pull the turbo off. Sometimes the hose will stick to the turbo making it a real bear to get off.

hth's
ks

 

[strikeeagle]

PB Blaster.

Oh, and replace the studs and nuts with new ones when you're done getting the turbo off - maybe avoid the problem the next time.

 

[Boostmeister]

DMan,

I didn't unbolt the turbo bracket from the block. The lower bolt looked like a PITA to get out.

Soooo, I sawzall'd two of the studs off and got the turbo off.

 

[Red Regal T]

On that lower bolt to the turbo bracket, you'll fine a socket and extension is a straight shot from the front of the motor, to the head of the bolt. Also, before re-installing your turbo, make up some studs for the oil return line and use them instead of the bolts. Makes installation a cinch.

 

[DMan]

Sawzall to remove the turbo...argh..oh well, at least its off!

Like John said, you can get the lower bolt off with a socket extension. In fact the small heat shield on the passenger manifold is indented for that purpose.

RedRegal I like your studs for the oil return line idea! That IS a PITA to put back. Studs would make it so much easier. I will remember that one. Thanks! See? Even a rocket scientist can learn to do things simpler..

 

[Red Regal T]

 

[KEVINS]

For the oil return line, I hook the return line up first while eveything is loose that way the turbo can be moved around a and the bolts can be installed very easy. I fought the return line for 40 minutes one day b4 I decided to leave everything loose. Now it bolts on with no trouble and no need for studs..

hth's
ks

 

[Red Regal T]

Sometimes you can lead a horse to water......but he don't have to drink.

 

[Boostmeister]

OK, next time I'll use a socket and extension to take the turbo bracket off.

Anyway, the bad, oil-dumping into the down pipe, lots of side play, TA-49 is out and a nice tight stocker is in place. I used a bolt instead of a stud and nut on the exhaust manifold hole closest to the valve cover, seems to work fine. Why studs and nuts? I had no problems reconnecting the oil return line.

Funny thing though. On the test drive, with the stock turbo, the car seemed to idle better and was more responsive than with the TA-49.
Is this normal, or was it because the TA was worn? (115k miles) Stocker is used with ~30k miles.