Replacing timing set

[87-WE2]

Noob here replacing original timing set. I've heard that Cloyes is good and Rollmaster looks good to me. I'm guessing I want to go with a double roller as I will be adding alcohol after replacement (probably a little during replacement also!!).

Do any of our beloved supporting vendors sell Cloyes, or is Rollmaster the way to go? Rollmaster is pricey, but I'm one of those guys who wants to do it right, even if it costs a little extra. What's the best and most reliable way to go for a timing set?

I will also be replacing oil pan gasket, valve cover gaskets, and valve springs at the same time. Probably stick a new water pump in there for giggles, too.

 

[1KWIKSIX]

If you're not building a 600+ HP motor, I'd recommend going with TA Performances' Billet Steel Timing Gear Set & their HD Single Row Chain that utilizes a stock style tensioner.
On a mild engine build using alcohol, etc.....it will be fine.....+ it will be much quieter vs a double row chain that doesn't use a tensioner.
I went this route over the winter when I changed over my original timing chain and gears after 60,000+ miles.

You can get this from Arizona GN......just call & ask Nick Micale about his recommendations using the TA Billet Gear Set & Chain with a tensioner for your set up.

As far as the oil pan gasket: For a trouble free installation and good durability.....I'd suggest when you change your oil pan gskt to use the cork pan gasket made by Kenny Duttweiller, these have a great track record of not leaking.

 

[GNONYX]

Noob here replacing original timing set. I've heard that Cloyes is good and Rollmaster looks good to me. I'm guessing I want to go with a double roller as I will be adding alcohol after replacement (probably a little during replacement also!!).

Do any of our beloved supporting vendors sell Cloyes, or is Rollmaster the way to go? Rollmaster is pricey, but I'm one of those guys who wants to do it right, even if it costs a little extra. What's the best and most reliable way to go for a timing set?

I will also be replacing oil pan gasket, valve cover gaskets, and valve springs at the same time. Probably stick a new water pump in there for giggles, too.

Since you like giggles why not also replace the rear end seal since you have everything open and remove, if you haven't done it already.

 

[87-WE2]

1kwiksix - thanks for the input. I was planning cork for the pan and valve covers, so thanks for confirming. Thanks for the advice on the chain, too.

Gnonyx - funny you mention the rear main. I thought of that as well. I'm not really sure it's leaking, but it would surprise me if it's NOT after 25 years. To tell you the truth, it's got me a little worried about whether I'd do it right.

 

[GNONYX]

1kwiksix - thanks for the input. I was planning cork for the pan and valve covers, so thanks for confirming. Thanks for the advice on the chain, too.

Gnonyx - funny you mention the rear main. I thought of that as well. I'm not really sure it's leaking, but it would surprise me if it's NOT after 25 years. To tell you the truth, it's got me a little worried about whether I'd do it right.

I hear what you're saying, I was once in your position of doing the rear end seal for the first time. I read twice, ask lots of questions, and most the important word is PATIENCE. The board members has help me, and this site has also help me out a lot; and when in doubt ask questions.
http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/engine/rearmain.html
The Following # notation I personally did differently.
#1- Our GN don't need to raise the engine, but I did replaced the oil pickup since the screen had something embedded in the screen. After replacing the nylon camshaft gear I found the missing nylon gear tooth.
#3 I took extra precaution when removing and placing the main bearing cap inside a zip-lock bag and place it a small box, didn't want to scratch it.
#6 Don't forget to read the "NOTE"
#7 I put a thin coat of Anaerobic on the cap-to-block mating surface of the main cap and on the chamfered edge instead of the RTV sealer. I don't have where I read that Anaerobic is OEM specified, but thats why I used it. Others may disagreed, while and others may have used RTV sealer.
Most important of all, once RTV seal is in place, let it cure until the next day.
#10 Prime the engine instead of cranking it dry.
If I miss anything I know other members will chime in