results from coating?turbo/downpipe

[BOOSTEDGNs]

for those of you who have coated their turbo exhaust housing/downpipe with ceramic/swain / jet hot or whatever that retains heat did you like the results?
How much should be expected to pay for this service? asking because I dont want to get shell shock when I price shop...and want a general idea?

how long have you had this done? and how does your present coeating look to this day and is it used daily?

pictures of the goods would be greatly appreciated if you have them gonna do a turbo and since car is down wanna do it all at once
TiA
Alan

 

[bruce]

for those of you who have coated their turbo exhaust housing/downpipe with ceramic/swain / jet hot or whatever that retains heat did you like the results?
How much should be expected to pay for this service? asking because I dont want to get shell shock when I price shop...and want a general idea?

I bought a used THDP that was already coated, and a set of the Poston's that come that way.

Some of the best *money*, I've ever spent.

I kinda flirt with running high EGTs, and things used to get roasty warm in the summer months, ie when I'd open the hood after some serious useage, it'd about knock you over, from the blast of heat. Now, I can literary change spark plugs after opening the hood. I've never done any thermal mapping of the engine compartment, but, IMO, they work.

 

[BOOSTEDGNs]

Bruce

thanks for your reply I always thought this coating thingy was/is a good idea just never got around to asking the q's I will probably do the engine downpipe turbo housing and headers at first chance Im running 1 out of my 3 cars presently cant stop driving the gn.....

Alan

 

[#1HotRod]

I bought a used THDP that was already coated,

Scuzza for breaking in, but Bruce...
what coating was/is your DP?
I've had intake manifolds & exhaust systems on my big block ceramic coated that don't tarnish after years, but not so with the GN's DP. Had 3" TH DP ceramic coated flat black & it's graying-out after only few months with no harsh treatment. Disappointed, but thinking leaving that way due too much trouble & expensive redoing it (think paid about $200), & looks 'factory' to the smog-Nazis. Maby they just did a poor coating job that time.
If yours retains it's nicer look, is it ceramic or jet coating or what, & what color? Thanks

 

[bruce]

Scuzza for breaking in, but Bruce...
what coating was/is your DP?
I've had intake manifolds & exhaust systems on my big block ceramic coated that don't tarnish after years, but not so with the GN's DP. Had 3" TH DP ceramic coated flat black & it's graying-out after only few months with no harsh treatment. Disappointed, but thinking leaving that way due too much trouble & expensive redoing it (think paid about $200), & looks 'factory' to the smog-Nazis. Maby they just did a poor coating job that time.
If yours retains it's nicer look, is it ceramic or jet coating or what, & what color? Thanks

I wish I knew what brand it is. When I got the pipe it was really tashing looking, so I took some steel wool to it. It's now just a matte gray color, and while it doesn't look as pretty as some pipes, you can hold your hand within a couple inches of it, after making a full pass. No flaking, and no hint of rust. Just figures, finally get something that works correctly, and can't find out what it is.... <sigh>

 

[GNVYUS 1]

HPC coated the TH 3.5" DP, turbo exhaust housing and compressor cover/inlet bell. Looks great and definitely keeps the underhood temps down. Not sure about spool up as I did a bunch of stuff at the same time, but it can't hurt it.

Use the HPC facility in AZ and you will get it back in a week. They have 3 facilities and HPC recommended that I go with this one if I was in a hurry.

HPC Southwest
6313 W. Commonwealth Place
Chandler, AZ 85226
Phone: 480-753-1320

I can send you pics, email me at gnvyus1@hotmail.com

 

[TurboJim]

I wish I knew what brand it is. When I got the pipe it was really tashing looking, so I took some steel wool to it. It's now just a matte gray color, and while it doesn't look as pretty as some pipes, you can hold your hand within a couple inches of it, after making a full pass. No flaking, and no hint of rust. Just figures, finally get something that works correctly, and can't find out what it is.... <sigh>

If those thermal wraps ruin the integrity of the metal because they hold the heat in, why is a coating any different? If it holds the heat in, shouldnt it do the same as a wrap? Or are you saying the inside of the pipe is coated, keeping heat from entering the metal of the pipe?

I wrapped my crossover and downpipe as they pass my RS control arm, to try to save the bushings. SO far so good. I havent however removed the wrap to see what is happening to the pipe because of the wrap...

 

[#1HotRod]

Quote: If those thermal wraps ruin the integrity of the metal because they hold the heat in, why is a coating any different? If it holds the heat in, shouldnt it do the same as a wrap?

TurboJim: I believe problem with wraps is that as it cools moisture is traped, then baked into the metal when gets hot, over-n-over again. The jet or ceramic coatings bind to the metal & actually protect it. Coating the inside of pipes also protect from rust but I think real goal is to ensure that heat is trapped inside the pipe to be blown out exhaust. Another benefit is that it is easy to keep clean. It's really trick, lot better than the earlier jet coating (not sure if that is a brand name or type?) but like everything else in our hobby, fairly expensive.

 

[OneLethal87GN]

I always wondered whether the "chrome" colored coatings would peel or change color? I thought about coating my exhaust housing and d/p, and maybe the headers. I still haven't seen any price quotes though. I figure for all three pieces it shouldn't run more than 3-400 dollars. Anybody know exact prices?

 

[bruce]

If those thermal wraps ruin the integrity of the metal because they hold the heat in, why is a coating any different?

In part, because they dramatically slow down how long it takes for the pipe to cool off.
The other thing is that the coatings prevent the pipe from getting so hot in the first place (when inner coated).

If you look at a pipe that's been destroyed by wrappings, you can see how the metal is completely crystialized (SP). I've had large chunks of the pipe just fall out in pieces when taking the wrapping off.

After trashing 2 sets of expensive headers with wrappings, I consider that I've wasted enough money on them.

We'll just have to see how you do in the long term, ie 6+ years. I have over 5 years on my coated pipe, and it's working just as well as the day I installed it. And, I've more then just pushed the EGT envelope.....

 

[#1HotRod]

Quote: I always wondered whether the "chrome" colored coatings would peel or change color?

Hi OneLeathalGN. I've used it on different cars for yrs & no major problems, color is imbedded into metal & doesn't peel. On very hot portions, like first foot of big block headers or turbo DP do fade/gray a little, but cooler parts like from collector back stay very nice. Biggest problem is keepin' 'em newish looking, as oil residue, etc. gets cooked on but can be cleaned with mild metal polish & elbow-grease. Looks lots better than chrome-krap. Few colors now avail, a polished aluminum, a silver gray, a shiny or semi-gloss black. Not many places available so probably not much price competition. I'm having a set of Olds headers w/ collectors done for $225. Because of shipping costs you would probably do better closer, but Cap's (Fresno, Ca.) does a lot of drag racers & some Nascar stuff nationally (559)233-1461 & are fast (about 6-8 day turn-around). In case thought of it, powder coating (lotsa colors) is very nice & lot cheaper, but won't take high heat. Good Luck.

 

[Mike70gtx]

I love mine, but don't have anything to compare with. I had them (headers, crossover, thdp, exhaust part of turbo) all done before I put motor in. Make sure you get a coating that is high temp. The jet hot 2000 is what was recommended on turbo application. It is a dull (rough feel) gray. I think they have a blue and maybe black. The chrome color is not a high enough heat rating. I had it (chrome) put on the inlet side of turbo.

 

[#1HotRod]

Me too Mike. You did bring up something interesting...I think that jet hot & ceramic coating are/may be two different processes. Also I didn't know that some colors were more temperature resistant than others.
My first set of headers were "jet coated" & like you say a grayish color...but they did fade a little over 5 years. Those headers are off now being ceramic coated so I'll see. The ceramic folks say theirs is 'better', but my semi-gloss black TH DP dulled & grayed little after few days. But intakes, cut-outs, muffs, tailpipes, etc. stay beautiful after years...but of course they are cooler & the polished alum color. If I remember I should ask the ceramic folks what the process difference is betwx jet-coated & ceramic, as well as heat vs. color differences & post it.

 

[waderaces427]

No coating vs. HotShot Ceramic Coating dyno test

I am going to the chassis dyno tomorrow or thursday to compare a before and after on my recently coated exhaust/downpipe/turbo by HotShot Performance Coatings here in Davie. I took temp readings on the downpipe and headers (ATR)before they were coated and will post both the power gains and surface temperatures during the dyno run. Tomorrow should be approx. same ambient temperatures if not hotter so the results should reflect the coatings ability to reduce underhood temps. I do notice my TA-49 spools faster than before with no coating. Email me if you would like to see some photos waderaces427@msn.com.

 

[#1HotRod]

Quote: I am going to the chassis dyno tomorrow or thursday


Dyno-mite.
Lettuce know.