RH A-frame bushing

[turbojimmy]

My upper control arm ("a-frame") bushings are bad due to the heat from the header and DP. I searched and found lots of instructions and information about the job. I just have a couple of questions:

1) No one mentions the dangers of the coil spring decapitating you when you remove the upper ball joint. This is because you jack the car up by the lower control arm, right? The weight of the car keeps the spring in place? My floor jack slllloooowwwwwwlllly loses pressure and lets the car down so I think I'll set the lower control arm on a jackstand.

2) I see people burn the bushings out. Is an oxyacetylene torch too hot? Will I damage the arm with it? My dad has one and we've never used it.

Other tricks or tips would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Jim

 

[at7we2]

I've had the a-arm bushings replaced in several g-bodies over the years and based on my experiences:

- you can use either a chain or a spring compressor to make removing the coil springs easy. I've used both and the spring compressor is easier/safer. you can pick up a pair of spring compressors for $7 here:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=3980

I wouldn't recommend using them on a daily basis (Chinese made) but they work great for occassional use.

- as for removing the old bushings, I've heard some people manage to press them out with a hydraulic press, but I've had to have someone burn the old one's out everytime. then use a hydraulic press to install the new bushings. I don't know if an oxyacetylene is too hot or not. probably depends on how much you let it heat up the metal.

HTH

Rob

 

[aminga]

The safest way to decompress the is with a Floor jack NOT a spring compressor. Just leave the shock in place capture the spring if something does go wrong. Loosen the nuts on the spindle but leave them in place. Put the jack under the rear of the A-arm and remove the bolts. Let it down slowly.

I have removed the bushing with the a C-clamp style press. But remember to put a spacer in the arm next to the bushing or you will crush it.

 

[at7we2]

uh, ok....first of all who said anything about "decompressing" the springs??

if you use the proper tools (ie: "spring compressor") you don't need to decompress them during removal. you remove the shock, put the spring compressor in place, compress the spring and remove it. remove the a-arms, remove old bushings, install new bushings. reinstall a-arms, put *compressed* spring back in place and slowly decompress the spring by backing off the spring compressor - that's what they are designed to do - and they do it well.

 

[turbojimmy]

Thanks for the replies. I do have a coil spring compressor. I guess the question is: Do I need it? Can I just take the upper control arm off while leaving the weight of the car on the lower control arm (thus keeping the spring compressed?

Thanks,
Jim

 

[at7we2]

although I've never done it that way, It seems like it would work fine. However, IMO if you're going through the trouble of replacing the upper a-arm bushings, it makes sense just to replace all of them. I've installed Energy Suspension bushings in several cars and have always liked the results - even with stock control arms and springs. Summit Racing sells the bushing kit for $62 in black or red. Part numbers are:

ENS-3-3156G (black)
ENS-3-3156R (red)

Rob

 

[Red Regal T]

Thanks for the replies. I do have a coil spring compressor. I guess the question is: Do I need it? Can I just take the upper control arm off while leaving the weight of the car on the lower control arm (thus keeping the spring compressed?

Thanks,
Jim

Taking off the upper control arm has no effect on the spring. You don't need a spring compressor because you don't even take the shock off to remove the upper A-arm. Even if you don't support the lower A-arm with a jack, it's not going anywhere.

 

[SS_Sean]

Taking off the upper control arm has no effect on the spring. You don't need a spring compressor because you don't even take the shock off to remove the upper A-arm. Even if you don't support the lower A-arm with a jack, it's not going anywhere.

Exactly. Support the lower A arm, release the A arm from the ball joint, and take your two nuts off the inside ends of the A arms, between where the bushings are located. These are the bolts that hold the center link of the A arm to the frame. You have just removed your A arm without completely disassembling your front end.

The weight of the car will hold the spring in place, since the upper end of the spring goes into a pocket on the frame. Just make sure you have the jackstand well placed to hold the weight of the car.

I'm going to have to rebuild my front end this winter, so will be disassembling the entire front suspension. I'm doing this because everything is worn out, not because I'm bored and have lots of money. :biggrin:

 

[turbojimmy]

Thanks for the replies. I appreciate the advice to do it all at once, but removing the spring adds a lot more time and danger to the job. I'm just going to replace the uppers I think. It should be a pretty quick job to remove the a-frame. Sounds like removing and reinstalling the bushings can be a pain. I may 'outsource' that part of it.

Jim

 

[Red Regal T]

The weight of the car will hold the spring in place, since the upper end of the spring goes into a pocket on the frame. Just make sure you have the jackstand well placed to hold the weight of the car.

:

Not only that, but with the shock still in place, and the stabalizer link in place, the lower A-arm can't go anywhere even if it's not supported.

And Jimmy, as far as removing the bushings, you need at least a good sized vice, a big hammer, and a big chisel to knock them out. For putting them in, I have a big socket that fits over the rubber part of the bushing and rides on the lip, and beat them in place. I found if you freeze the bushing, they contract and go in easier.

 

[turbojimmy]

Thanks for the replies.

Well I'm about half way through the job. I don't have whatever tools are necessary to put the new bushings in. Getting the old ones out is not so bad if you just slice through them with a hacksaw.

I don't have a socket big enough to go over the rubber part of the bushing and I can't find my friggin 2.5 lb. mini sledge. I'm going to call around to see if anyone has a press that will do it.

Jim

 

[turbojimmy]

I fixed it. Never underestimate the effectiveness of a bigger hammer.

I went to Home Depot and got a 1 1/2" diameter 2"-long nipple (steel pipe). I got a cap for it, too. The 1 1/2" pipe barely slips over the rubber part of the bushing. I also picked up a 4 lb. sledge with a longer handle than the one I have currently. I put the arm in the vise for stability and after a few whacks on the cap/pipe arrangement the bushings seated.

Jim

 

[Red Regal T]

 

[turbojimmy]

Here's the $2 tool I made. Worked awesome. Be careful kids, steel pipe is very hard and if you hit it hard enough it will shatter like glass:

Jim