Ok guys looking to get the Comp Cams 206/206 roller cam kit but will be using Morel roller lifters and K-Motion 120lb springs. Heard dont even waster your money on a flat tappet is that true? Car will have a new TA-49 turbo, 60lbs injectors w/ TT chip. Spun a main bearing and damaged crank and cannot be turned so ordering a stock stroke GN1 crank.Is anyone running the Comp cam? This car will be 98% street driven but looking for low 12's in 1/4 at track. Also thinking about putting a Dutt neck on it with an RJC power plate. I think I have a decent list with parts and heard the power plate help alot getting even flow distribution with less knock. If anyone is running this cam and/or other parts chime in and let me know if you are happy with the combo.
Roller Cam
- Thread starter mackdaddy
- Start date
fastblackracing
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Apr 7, 2009
who's cam kit is it and do you know the lift and lobe center angle on it? the 206/206 roller is an awesome cam in my opinion I went low tens with one in my car years ago and they drive well on the street. You should have around .480 lift and a 109 lca. I used comp 941 springs. All was good. The big neck is a good addition and you should have all of the egr tower B.S. milled out of the intake while it is off. The cylinder heads will need to have the exhaust valve guides cut down for clearance from the extra cam lift. If you can swing it do the roller cam but its pricey I know but really the best way to go. lmk if you have any more questions
It's the kit roller cam kit from Cottons but they use morel lifters instead of comp lifters and k motion 120# springs instead of comp beehives. Is the gn1 crank reliable? I hear they are all Chinese made now. I didn't know all of that head work would have to be done for the cam. I was told don't order the new pushrods until the machine shop knows what size we need. I afraid of wiping the flat tappet cam out due to not being broke in properly I have heard so many stories.
Also 1 other thing we spun the #1 main bearing and their was metal in the motor. I just put a new radiator and oil cooler in last year someone on the board said if any metal got I to the oil cooler the radiator is done and needs to be replaced is that true?
yep. if you sent metal into an oil cooler and you reuse it, you will have metered metal going into the new engine. bye bye engine and bye bye turbo.
You want the morels over the comps when it comes to lifters. Given the choice between comp beehives and Kmotion standard springs, I'd take the K-motions. If you're buying from scratch get the beehives from PAC.
You want the morels over the comps when it comes to lifters. Given the choice between comp beehives and Kmotion standard springs, I'd take the K-motions. If you're buying from scratch get the beehives from PAC.
scojack_2001
Livin' Like A Refugee
- Joined
- May 24, 2001
Low 12s at the track? A setup like that wouldnt even be breathing hard. I went 11.32 on a bone stock unopened motor in my full weight GN. Went roller when I freshened it up. That cam should be good for your goals, but that's probably a low 11 setup right there. Ive been running a Dutt neck and a Power Plate for years and no problems. I bought the Full Throttle roller kit and used all the parts that came with it. Pushrods in my kit were 8.050" long with the Morels and they seem to be fine. We'll see when I light it off this weekend.
Also see about some ported irons to take advantage of the new heads. Stock valve will go into the 9s, no need for bigger ones. A ported intake doesnt help until you're into the low 10s, so there is some money saved. I just cleaned mine and dropped it back on. Stock headers will work too, no need to spend money there unless the stock ones are beat to death.
Also see about some ported irons to take advantage of the new heads. Stock valve will go into the 9s, no need for bigger ones. A ported intake doesnt help until you're into the low 10s, so there is some money saved. I just cleaned mine and dropped it back on. Stock headers will work too, no need to spend money there unless the stock ones are beat to death.
- Joined
- May 26, 2001
My opinion in your case would be "don't even waste your money on a roller cam"?
Any cam change from stock with 12 sec. build will make very little difference, if any, at that level.
Using 120# springs on a roller cam will probably give you a very small increase in RPM in the power band, hence little difference in HP.
If someone wipes a new flat tappet cam either they did not follow proper installation procedures, used synthetic oil, or both.
Of the couple hundred flat tappet cams I have done over the years, only 2 failed, and they both used Mobil I.
slamming 6
Drag Master
- Joined
- Jul 21, 2003
If you are buying the kit let me know how you want for the comp lifters,never had any problem with them (is noisy).
- Joined
- May 26, 2001
Your money, your choice, but having seen and worked on many GN's with over 150K miles with the stock flat tappet cam, I would say flat tappets are VERY reliable.
I owned one of those GN's and it was a 12 sec. car, not a "capable" 12 sec. like many posts, since I have the time slip to verify it. Better yet, a local GN with 600+ runs on a stock, un-opened engine has run a 10.90!
This is why I do not buy the internet BS about flat tappets not being reliable, or you need them for performance. My first GN did not "need" a roller cam, but my ego did.
Rosella is now garbage no more zinc in it , use valveoline vr1 20 50 has zinc. Another oil used with my race car was kendall called the green oil . I never tried the joe Gibbs oil. But that is a zinc oil as well. Even though my motor now is a roller I would still run zinc oil.
jarredsoon
Member
- Joined
- Aug 9, 2007
I have 10,000 street miles on a 206 206 flat tappat comp cam, and the car does 11.6 ET in the quarter. No problems!! I also feel the motor is reliable and have taken the car on long road trips. For an all out performance motor with lots of horse power I like roller cams.
